Pasta Burner

I fiberglassed mine, but that’s not the preferred method, just what I had on hand. It’s ABS Plastic and can be repaired. Unless In 2000 they were using something else.

Oil level was too high causing a leak out the breather, it’s now borderline too low getting an intermittent warning on the dash. I know I hook up that hose but haven’t checked to make sure nothing got in there, will do that. I did notice looking through the parts fiche that those two bolts are a different part number from the rest…not sure why yet though.

Some of you are aware from my other posts that I decided to pull the carbs and inspect for a known vacuum leak and any other obvious issues while I’m at it. Some parts are on order and I’m about to order some more while I’m at it. But a few questions and clarifications first. lower carb boots…one is damaged and should be replaced, but looking at them all I’m not sure how to identify which is which. Two of them have an A3 1 marking the other two are identified differently. Also can’t make out the logo to look it up. According to the parts fiche there should only be two types of boots left and right. Items 1 & 2. Front left and Rear right lower boot holes started leaking oil as I mentioned in another thread, after looking at the parts fiche I’m a little more comfortable with this being normal as those two holes have different bolts, item 7. Anybody know if leaking oil is normal and or what is different about those bolts? Vacuum hose, which boot does it go on? Mine was on cyl 2 but the parts fiche alludes to cyl 1. Also if I were to inspect the “Nozzle” item 11, what would I be looking for? https://www.youngpowersportslayton.com/oempartfinder#/Yamaha/XVZ13DTC_-_1987/AIR_FILTER/d8f5f585-45e2-4d3b-b62f-0961652755e5/ee08895c-9b91-4375-a316-99127666930e/y

I believe you need to swap the forks out for MkII forks. @skydoc_17 offers some great service and brake kits.

@ReinyRooster those aren’t RCA, they are 3.5mm jacks. Like a standard headphone would plug into. Like @RDawson mentions it’s totally up to the way you have your bike configured and options on how to hook it up. You might also use that to connect to helmet, and or phone, again depending on options.

Two tips I learned yesterday. 1. Take the choke cable off first, that will enlighten you as to how the cable attaches to the carb. I didn’t know how it was attached so doing it blind inside the carb bank was a bitch. 2. Use the bike and leverage to your advantage. It seemed people had trouble getting the carbs out of the lower boots. I put a block of wood on the frame rail below the carbs and used another piece of board to pop them out. Pics below, obviously carbs already removed. someone please correct me if I’m steering this guy wrong for a Mk1

If I’d have known it was as easy as it was I’d have made a video yesterday. Only took about 20 min (not including plastic removal). I used this thread as a guide.

Oh! I forgot to mention / ask…is it normal to have oil coming out of the lower boot holes?…front left and rear right? First pic above where I reinstalled screws to stop the oil.

Thanks all for the advice and to @saddlebum and @RDawson for pushing me to remove the carbs. Honestly only took about 20min to get the carb bank out including the learning curve, not difficult at all like I’ve read about. one boot had a half gasket and I’m pretty sure none of the gaskets are correct. Got the OEM on order from my dealer coming in next week. got all but one e-clip installed in place of the alligator clips. new slides and diaphragm should be here midweek too. might get lucky to have it back together for next weekend ride.

Did the WD40 cause it was close at hand. Took it all off in about three swipes. Thanx!

Old thread I know, but good info I was looking for. I think I’m going to use the 3M emblem adhesive to put the badge back on. But my initial question is what would y’all recommend to remove the existing tar like adhesive? I don’t know what it is, or if it’s OEM but in the desert sun it started melting and the emblem began to slide downward. I pulled it off before I lost it. I tried some IPA with little success, I’m afraid Of clouding or damaging the lens.

Yes, I concur. My hesitation at addressing the known vacuum leak is that it hasn’t been an issue before and I need to pull the carb bank to do it. However I’m not riding anyway till I get this identified and fixed. so new question…if I’m going to pull the carbs to inspect/replace the gaskets and inspect the coast diaphragm. What else should I be looking at, replacing, inspecting, while I’m at it?

Well Jeez! Glad you made it through that. I’ve just been dependent to feathering the clutch. Too much time messing with this lately has the wife pointing out the house list getting behind. My thought process is if it has the capability of idling correct and the high RPM is intermittent there must be a bind in the cable somewhere. There is no room for adjustment at the grip, so I’m gonna work from the carb up.

Looks like something I’ll have to pull the carb bank to do.

Coast diaphragm? I know for a fact there is a vacuum leak between the lower carb boot and head. Would that also cause the high rpm? Today’s test ride after work proved that warming up it was fine, then it reved about 2500 3 k between shifts and at a stop. Once at a stop three to four flicks of the throttle caused it to drop back to 1k

So the front right slider doesn’t move as far outboard as the other three. Should they all move the same? Just want to ask before I take all that plastic off to inspect it from the outside.

I got to see them work this afternoon with a little encouragement. @skydoc_17 is in the process of hooking me up with some new gear.

Ok so no luck getting the E clips in place so alligator clips it is for the mean time. good news soaking the cables overnight and grinding out a little more of the switch housing has the throttle snapping closed like it should. fluid film is becoming my new best friend too The idle is still slow to calm down I’m not sure what is causing that, the cables and linkage react immediately. yet to test ride, probably to work tomorrow.

That’s crazy! Thanks though, I haven’t checked the water level in my sportbike for years 😬! Added to the list of to do for today.

Cable adjustment and lube is what I’m about to do. The idle screw was set correct when I synced the carbs a few weeks ago (before the new grips), so my variable is really in the cables/grips. as for the sliders, are they supposed to move with the air box off and engine running? Mine do nothing, but I was thinking that is due to the carbs being wide open. With the airbox installed obviously I can’t see what’s happening. They all set closed about where you say.

I’m going to go buy a new tweezer set to try and get in there. I’ve installed thousands of clips on electrical connectors throughout my career, but there seems to just be no easy access to get at the linkage. go figure it’s the best riding weather of the year and I’m stuck in the garage.

I feel like the throttle never “snapped” closed since I bought the bike last year. But it did throttle down when rolled forward. Through my tinkering and reading it seems there are four throttle cables. What’s the easiest way to get at them and lube them? They might need replacing but I’d like to try cleaning first. It seems clear the left fairing needs to come off but where is the cruise housing located? I think that’s where cables one and two turn into three and four. also any tips on installing E clips to the carb linkage? I bought a variety set from harbor freight but can’t get my fingers or tweezers in there without dropping or flying the clip.

I did a little tinkering with it and I got it to idle proper when I opened up the switch housing. I noticed when I pinched the housing back together it was binding the new grip ever slightly, so I have to adjust that. on another note, the return spring doesn’t seem strong enough to close the throttle on its own. If I manually actuate the butterflies at the carb just above the idle adjustment screw it only snaps back about half way.

Forgiveness and playing dumb was the plan all along. I wasn’t going through CE, and didn’t plan on involving or informing them of anything. I contracted a private office furniture company. Unfortunately somehow word got out and now the CE is aware I have to tread lightly. I did find a company that makes custom fit area rugs, so that may be an option.

@djh3 what did you decide to do? Curious if you tried the tiles. I’m in the process of remodeling the office area in my warehouse and got thrown a wrench when Base Civil Engineering caught wind we were planning on having carpeting installed. For months I was ensured that laying carpet over asbestos is the preferred method even by the Base contracted carpet guy, then at near zero hour was informed otherwise and I’d need Commander approval and an abatement. So now I’m looking for alternatives to cover the nasty existing tile.