luvmy40

Those Harbor Freight T-Handle Allens are OK for most light work but they will probably not be strong enough for the clutch slave job. Get a set of 1/4" or 3/8" drive hex drive sockets and an extension set. The cheap stuff at HF will work fine in that style.

Sad to see you go MiCarl! I enjoyed your posts at the XJ forum as well as here. You should still come around from time to time and keep us updated on your tractors. BTW, I was born at Robinson Memorial Hospital in Ravenna, OH. Literally right around the corner from Speedex.

That is the YICS chamber. Yamaha Induction Control System An inovative piece of Nippon engineering that looks great on paper and may even give some modicum of real wold advantage, but actually doesn't do much. A lot of us have just removed them and capped off the YICS ports on the heads. In the XJ series engines the YICS chamber was milled into the head and you needed a special tool to block it off for synchronizing the carbs. I just left mine blocked on a couple XJs and never saw any performance or efficiency difference. My Gen1 MK1 Ventue's YICS chamber was leaking badly when I got so I just removed it.

I found a 1986 VR on CL in Sydney, OH. About 200 miles from me. The post clearly stated there was no title and the crappy pictures(13 of them) showed a bike that had been partialy torn down. "I bought this to build a trike and then changed my mind." was the gist of the description. The asking price was $300.00 The only damage I could see in the pictures was a fairly harsh scrape on the top rear corner of the "cheekbone" of the left main fairing. it didn't look smashed, just scarred. I called and a asked specifically if there was any serious damage to any of the plastics as they were my main interest. He said the scrape in the picture was the worst of it but there were some other scrapes and scratches. Nothing broken. I dove down there today. 3hrs, 18 minutes one way. That thing looked like it had been run over buy a truck The scrape in the picture was the best part of all the plastics! The bike was in a pile at the edge of the road just off the driveway with a "for sale" sign sitting on top of the mess. It looked like it had been sitting there all winter, uncovered. What did this idiot think I was going to do? Just give him $300.00 for a pile of crap because I just drove 3 hours and didn't want to go home empty handed? It was all I could do to not slap the stupid off of the guy. I took one look and said "Thanks for wasting my Saturday", got in the truck and left a skid mark down his driveway. Why can't people be honest? Serious question.

The Ignitech should work with the factory "Boost Sensor" for timing advance. BTW, did you have Ignitech set the programming for COP application?

Just a little good natured ribbing there Pucster! I happen to agree with you about the factory gen 1 seats. Mine's just in bad shape and after 3 years of looking for a decent replacement, I gave up and ordered a new custom seat.

I am primarily interested in the main fairings, side covers and lower fairings. If I can trade sub frames and luggage, I might do that. I will keep the front end for swapping next off season. So, my '83 windshield will not fit on the '86 fairing? I ask because it looks in the pictues like the '86 windshield has been shortened to about 8" Am I going to have to trade all the fairing mounts as well?

I found a 1986 VR on Craigslist about 160 mi. from me. He is asking $300.00 OBO. He says he bought the bike to make a trike. He tore it apart but never did anything else with it. He claims it ran before he dismantled it. He didn't say it ran well, just "It ran." He said the plastic is all there and mostly good. Only one or two cracks, supposedly. He does not have a title. I am going to be about 40 miles away from him for a couple days next week. I'm going to try to carve out the time to go take a look at it. My question is this: Is my assumption that everything except the luggage is compatible with my '83 correct?

Hmm, that looks an awful lot like a custom, aftermarket seat there Puc... :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/311235893434 The above link is for a set of four plug caps for the '76-'87 Honda GL1000/1100/1200 which calls for the NGK DPR8EA-9 spark plugs. I just ordered a set. I'll let everyone know if they work, but I can't imagine why the won't.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/311235893434 I thought I'd resurrect this thread and add an option I found. The above link is for a set of four plug caps for the '76-'87 Honda GL1000/1100/1200 which calls for the NGK DPR8EA-9 spark plugs. I just ordered a set. I'll let everyone know if they work, but I can't imagine why the won't.

Are the RSTD brakes linked? If so, you've probably got the rear line bleed thoroughly and the air is in the high point on the front link. Start with the front and make sure to bleed at the steering neck bleeder first.

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a Mighty Vac vacuum pump with the brake bleed kit, about $30.00 IIRC. It takes about 3 minutes to bleed the rear system and get all the air out.

Mega Comfy! I am just a little disappointed as the maker told me the seat would be tailored to my inseam so I could flat foot the ride. No way can I comfortably flat foot this set up when one up. With the wife riding pillion and loaded for the road, probably. I have a feeling this is due to the fact that the maker asked me about how I sat on the stock bike to determine my true inseam. My original seat is broke down badly and I had not installed the progressive fork spings at that time. I could force my heels down flat but not comfortably when we talked about it, so he told me I had a 30" inseam. I've always bought 32" inseam jeans because I like them a bit long, so this sounded reasonable. Oh well, like I said the seat is very comfortable when riding and I'll get used to the added height.

One might say, "You'll just shoot more and not save any money." And, that might be true. One could also say, "You can load a better shell than you can buy for the money." That could also be true. What I will tell you is this. Both are true. You can also load your own and save a lot of money if you do it right. If you are not a competition shooter, go with Lee Precision and MEC. Look for deals on used gear on ebay. If you have money to burn, buy new Dillon or Hornady gear. PM me if you want help setting up Lee or MEC presses. I have loaded many, many thousands of handgun, rifle and shot loads on "cheap" equipment over the last 40 years.

Once again, more plastic broke in re-assembly! I finally got everything back together on The Beast after installing skydoc_17's delinking brake line kit and of course, I busted a mounting tab off of the right side main fairing. The one that the lower fairing mounts up to. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to fix this one. I also had a weird thing happen and I pulled a really stupid, bone head move as well. I took her out for a short shake down run. About 8 miles round trip to my favorite craft brew supplier. When I pulled into the store parking lot, the front fender was dancing around and making a horrible racket. My first thought was that I forgot to tighten the mounting bolts. Nope, all tight. I have no idea what happened but the "chrome"(plastic) extender on the rear of the front fender was busted half off and rubbing on the side of the tire. The fender it's self is cracked about 6 inches up from the back end. I'll definitely need a new fender. And now for the bone head move. Somehow, in my excitement to get everything finished I failed to notice the rear brake line was touching the #3 exhaust header. The brakes worked perfectly right up until I pulled back into my driveway. The pedal lost pressure and I was engulfed in a cloud of smoke. I'm an idiot.

To steel a phrase from cowpuc; Wowzey Wowzer! The beast gave me a workout yesterday! I had planned on finishing the brake mods, running a carb sync and getting her all back together yesterday. The term "Pipe dream" comes to mind. Earl's stainless steel brake/clutch line kit is extremely well made and high quality. The problem was one of hubris on my part. There are, necessarily three swivel banjo fittings that need to be tightened after installation for proper alignment. These are at the manifold splitting the front brake line to the right and left calipers. I got everything tightened up and started the bleed process. It took a few minutes to get any flow started at all and when it did start, brake fluid poured out from the manifold area. I thought it was coming from the banjo fitting where the two lines are connected in tandem to the right side of the manifold. I tightened it further, still leaking. I pulled it apart and inspected the mating surfaces. Everything looked good so I put it back together, still leaking! I finally figured out it wasn't the banjo joint but the upper swivel connection on the line coming from the MC at the manifold banjo joint. I thought I had them plenty tight(this is the hubris) even though there was barely enough room to get a stubby combo wrench on the swivel and not much leverage available. I wound up getting it as tight as possible in place then disconnecting the line from the MC and removing the manifold from the mounting plate. Pulling the whole assembly out from the font let me get at everything to get enough torque on the swivel fittings the seal them up. I had to do this 3 time before I got everything sealed up AND aligned for proper installation. Many bloody knuckles, a few hundred new curse words invented and a quart of DOT 3 later, the bakes are done and bled. Unfortunately, nothing else got done. Maybe today?

The calipers are easily rebuilt. The OE parts are available from Yamaha, Partzilla, Revzilla, etc. There are also many aftermarket parts available on amazon or ebay. I'd recommend staying away from Chinese manufactured seals and gaskets. There are a plethora of videos on youtube showing how to rebuild brake calipers. Getting the pistons out can sometimes be a challenge but I have yet to have one stump me. Compressed air(be very careful when the come out, they come out fast and hard!) or a grease gun will almost always work. Clean is the rule. I use scotchbright pads and brass wire Dremel wheels to clean the bore and seal seats. Rotate with the circumference, don't wipe in and out when cleaning with even the mildly abrasive pads. Pre lube with brake fluid when installing the seals and pistons.

So, now we have Schrödinger's Mirror. Is it broken? Is it whole? Yes.

The MC cover screws are available from Yamaha. I just cut slots in the stripped heads on mine with a Dremel and turned them out with a flat blade driver.

Another thread brought this up briefly(OK, I brought it up in another thread briefly) and it made me curious as to whether Ohio is the worst or merely one of the worst states as far as titling MCs brought in from out of state and getting untitled MCs a new title. It's possible that it may a local thing as far as Ohio goes, but it is handled by the State Troopers rather the Sheriff's dept. so I doubt that. Here's what I've run into in Portage and Mahoning counties, OH. A bike with a clean title from another state must have a VIN inspection by the title bureau to be re-titled in OH. The frame VIN must match the engine serial # or the bike has to be inspected by the State Trooper's office for a full search of stolen vehicle registries. They go so far as to ascertain if there any after market parts, which must be individually documented. The same full search of stolen vehicle registries and documentation must be done to re-title an OH bike that does not have the paper title for what ever reason. I have had Ohio State Troopers tell me that it is a waste of time to even try to get the missing title scenario accomplished. It can be done theoretically, but they said they've never seen a title issued in such cases. There is always something that pops and stops the process and in those cases, the bike is confiscated. Now, I would imagine that having a titled frame and an engine with a title matching would make the process easier. I wouldn't hold my breath though. So what is the story in your state? I know there are states that will issue registrations on older bikes without titles and that there are even states that will just issue a title on a bill of sale. What about where you live?

The brake pads came in yesterday and I got the front end put back together and all the brake lines finished this evening. I'm still looking for some 7/16" ID brake or transmission hose to run from the rear MC to the reservoir. The auto parts stores got nuthin'! Is silicone compatible with DOT3? I'm also waiting on the new hairpin clips for the caliper slide pins to arrive. The rear caliper had cotter pins in their place. What a PITA that was. Partzilla has them for $5 and change + shipping, EACH! The local Yamaha dealer has them for $8.15 EACH! I ordered a box of 50 in 8-18 SS from McMaster Carr for $6.00 + shipping. They should be here tomorrow. Diamond Custom Seats called me and let me know my new seat will ship Friday. The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter.

Made2care, This may have been said already. Keep in mind the issue with the '83 frames is internal and will not be visible until it's too late. I'd weld the reinforcements on the "new" frame before putting her back together. I'm waiting with trepidation for the day my frame breaks. I ride in inclement weather so it is only a matter of time from what I've been told. And again, I hope you don't run into any issues transferring an out of state title with a non matching numbered engine.

Since you obviously have experience in restorations, this may be a needless warning. Make very sure of your state's laws regarding titling "frankenbikes" In OH, it would literally be impossible to get a title for the end product of that untitled "parts bike" and your plastics put together. It would even be difficult, though not impossible to get the product of one of cowpucs titled frames and a non matching ser. no. engine titled.

m Funny you posted this. My maxim came to me with the Vetter Wind Jammer II fairing and a GK bag and trunk kit. Not nearly as sleek as the factory luggage but in the same vein. I took it back to stock and mounted thee fairing and bag kit on a Suzuki GS850. I've got pics of them somewhere but I can't seem to find them right now.