luvmy40

Take it to PPG or Sherwin Williams Auto paints and they will color match it.

They are far from the most difficult I've done, but I've never worked on the Magna so I can't give a comparison. I would highly recommend sourcing a factory service manual.

I've had good results cutting out old wires and re potting new ones on vintage coils. It is a good bit of work so you definitely want to make sure the coil itself is good and the problem is only the wire.

It does, however have nearly everything to do with engaging and disengaging the clutch plates.

Cheese cloth would not be waterproof. I'm thing something like Gortex but I don't know if that would let the sound pass properly.

When the desiccant gel gets too old it starts crumbling and can cause clogs in the air lines. The manual says the OEM gel is clear when dry and pink when saturated.

Odds are, it's an easy fix and it may not even be the fuel line but stuck floats in the carbs. Clear title? Even without a clear title, if the plastic are in decent shape, BUY IT! if nothing else, you'll make your money back 3 fold parting out the body panels and scraping the frame and engine.

So the external noise microphone is missing the "Special waterproof cloth" cover on both the control units I have. What is a suitable replacement material? Leaving that whole in the control unit open to the elements cannot be good!

The Shinko 777s I ordered, originally for The Beast arrived yesterday. They will now be installed on Beauty and I ordered a set of Kenda Kruz for The Beast. I wanted to get Kenda Challengers but I could not find them sized for the Venture. I went with the Kendas for the boy because he won't put 1/4 of the mileage on the bike I do. His daily commute is only 12 miles round trip and with a young child he doesn't get too many opportunities for road trips. The ride quality of the Kenda Challengers was very good, they just didn't last very long. He'll probably change them on the calendar long before wearing them out. Anyway, This weekend I plan to to do a complete inspection on Beauty and replace both tires at the very least. Probably pull the desiccant cylinder and see if the gel is reusable. I assume I can buy replacement gel from Yamaha if it's broke down too far to dry and reuse? I'll change all the fluids and install the spin on oil filter adapter, that is if it gets here in time. If not I'll save the oil change for next week. The battery is supposedly on 1 year old, but I'll check that as well. I do not know yet if the fuse block has been upgraded. If not I'll probably tackle that this week as well. Maybe a new horn with relay? Then The boy and I need to do his tires and address the leaky o ring on the left anti dive unit. Hmmm... This could be a long weekend!

As a general rule, I resize photos to 800 x ???(auto) for forum postings. It seems to work everywhere and results in good resolution.

Mr. Hammer Sir, Another bit of datum for you: JYA1NL006GA000818 Titled as 1986 Yamaha XVZ13 I haven't looked at the build date yet.

Yeah, I was thinking someone said it was easier to remove the entire rear sub frame than to pull the side bags for rear tire changes. I may be just making it up in my fuddled memory:confused24:

So, in case you haven't heard, I just picked up a 1986 VR. I recall a conversation in which a member stated something along the lines of (para) "there is an easy way to remove the whole luggage rack assembly by removing 4(?) bolts" on the MK2. I believe this was in a thread about changing rear tires. Am I remembering correctly or is this just wish full thinking on my part? Is this possible?

Rode the new girl to work and ordered a spin on oil filter adapter and Purolator filters for her.

Search the forum for ignition module or TCI relocation. I don't know for sure but I'd bet there is a thread dedicated to it. IIRC, The air box and battery box need to come out, then there is a heat shield or air dam that comes out(I don't think it has any fasteners, but i could be wrong) and then you can get to the rack that the coils, TCI and boost sensor are mounted to. Pull the whole rack then you can take the TCI off and it's just a matter of rerouting the 2 cables a bit so it can then lay on top of the air box when you put everything back together. This is a dryer, cooler and more easily accessible spot for it.

I've been using Budge, XL covers from Walmart on The Beast. They fit nicely work fairly well and are cheap. I'll pick up another for Beauty, but does anyone make a good half or Bimni style cover for the MK2? I see very nice half covers for the Gen2 bikes but can't seem to find anything for the Gen1s.

Pull the whole rack. You'll want to move the ignition module up on top of the air box anyway.

Swapped CLASS modules from a pile of parts I bought off of FB.

So, on top of finding the deal of the century on a nearly pristine '86 Royale, I found a pile of parts from an '85 Blonde Royale on FB with an asking price of $100.00. The pics showed both main fairing halves, windshield and side bags. When I got there I found a dirty but solid, untorn seat in two tone brown, both side bags both inner fairing panels, both main fairing shells, wind screen, chin scoop, engine covers, faux gas tank cover, main fairing top panels and all the Royale electronics (no CB). The guy said "Give me $50.00 and take it all. I'll help you load it up." Done! I get it all home and discover that the ignition key for The Beast fits and works in all the locks on the new plastics! I already traded CLASS modules with the one in Beauty and solved that issue. The boy has decide to use the main fairings, side bags and engine cover(we will have to modify them a bit) and go with a black and gold two tone motif on The Beast. I don't know if the radio, tape deck and intercom work from the parts pile, but since the CLASS module works, I'd say there's a good chance that rest of the electronics works as well.

Got it Ronnie. Ill get it sent out this week sometime.

If you want the MK2 rest it's yours. Just PM me your address.

He said he doesn't want a back rest

Oh yeah, about the CLASS. It does work The E4 error is not constant. One time you try to make a change you get the error. The next time it woks just fine. I found if it pops an error, start the bike, the switch back to accessory and the error is most likely gone. Sometimes the pressure sensor wonks out and shows 0 or 98 psi. Start it and switch to accy. and it's fine.

Gone to RDawson I have a black padded driver's back rest and mounting brackets for the Gen1, MK2 that I will send to anyone who needs it. The chrome is shiny and good looking, the pad is in very good condition though a little sun faded. No rips.

Wow! That's a looker! I think the Midnights are the best looking of the Gen 2 models. Now if they would just go a little faster...