Flyinfool

A popular place to mount driving lights is on the horn brackets. I found a neat set from KC Hilights that is focused in between driving and fog lights. They do a real good job of lighting up the shoulders to see deer coming at night and still throw some useful light down the road straight ahead. I plan to convert mine from the 55W halogen to 35W HID.

I'm still really bummed that I could not make it. Glad that you all had a good time (even without the RUM balls:whistling:). I am planing on making it next year.

You will also need a snap ring pliers to get the hub apart.

YET!

You can weld it all back together. As mentioned I would add some reinforcement, I would also check the other side real close for any cracks. I don't think that the handling issue can be caused by the trunk rack being loose. Check all the stuff mentioned above.

first question Does a 2nd gen still have a waist spark? If so then you could switch wires so that the coil in question is firing a different cylinder. This will confirm if it is ignition or fuel related.

It would be easy to wire up some LEDs to the primary side of the coil. But that will only tell you the the TCI is sending a signal to the coil, It would not indicate whether or not the coil fired the plug. Now just off the top of my head without really thinking this thru;;;;;;; You could make up a sensor for the spark by putting several wraps of wire around the plug wire and running that thru some sort of regulator, maybe a zener or avalance diode. It would take some experimenting and possibly a few blown diodes to get the number of wire wraps around the plug lead just right.

If we are your "sanity", you are in deep trouble.........

I'll bet you can not call him anything he has not heard before.....

Sounds like your buddy should pack a spare belt and enough tools to change it.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69 There are more writeups somewhere.

If I eat ALL of the rum balls and THEN work on the bike I may end up with a truly unique bike.....

A kind member her had the replacement kill switch that I need that is no longer available from Yami. All of the parts that I think I need are now sourced and ordered. With the 4th holiday coming up I likely will not see them all till the following week. In the mean time I can repair the wires that need repairing, and clean and add dielectric grease to all connectors that I can get to while the fairing is apart. In 2 weeks I can go out for the next test ride to see if I have fixed the issue.....

I called every Yamaha dealer in a 150 mile radius and not one has the parts I need to make it to WI MD. Brian has the kill switch that I need and I should get that sometime next week. So I had to mail order the rest of the parts, they will be here the week after the 4th. That gives me plenty of time to fix some other things that need fixin, "as long as I'm in there" with the faring apart. I am really going to miss not making MD. Now I will have to eat all of these rum balls by myself.

The bike is scattered everywhere and I am still shopping for parts. Unless a miracle happens today I will not make it to Orlins.

On mine the pin at the top of triangle that goes into the red part of the rocker is broken off. There is a pin on the white part and a pin on the black part that go into each side of the rocker to act as a hinge for the rocker to pivot on. I even tried to drill and tap a #0-80 hole to put a tiny screw to gold the broken pin on. That part of the switch is Bakelite and did not like the tapping process, the pin just disintegrated into dust. I even tried to make a new pin out of aluminum to screw to the base but that was also to brittle to machine. PM sent

And he missed the other 3 areas that are still to this day disputed borders between the USA and Canada.

Did you have the battery load tested while it was charged and out of the bike? A junk battery can show 12.6 volts with no load but will drop way down with a starter load. Since the starter will crank when you jumper direct from the battery, just turn the key on and jumper from the battery direct to the starter and it should start. That will at least get you home with it. If this does get it started, that really narrows down the possible problems.

There is this same protocol used on a different forum that I frequent, I have been trying for years to get that other forum owner to change to like what this forum was. Having used both systems for many years I can say that I do like the way this one was before the change much better.

I need a kill switch for my 88 standard. I checked a bunch of places and the switch does not come separate, but only as part of the whole switch assembly. that assembly is discontinued and not available. I do not need the whole switch assembly from the right handle bar just the kill switch. Actually I only need the black plastic piece that the two red with white stripe wires are soldered onto. there are 3 contact pads on the other side. If it matters mine does have the factory cruise control in that housing. I have also determined that the kill switch from a MK I that did not have cruise control is completely different.

OK here is what I found so far. As mentioned earlier, the hinge pin for the kill switch was broken off so the switch was wobbling and possibly not always making good contact. The clutch switch never worked since I bought this bike 6 years ago. In disassembling it I found that it was frozen halfway between in and out so it was making the connections for the bike to run, but not breaking the connection for the cruise. The clutch bushings were worn enough to not force the switch all the way to either end of its travel. There is a smaller black wire that comes of of the NEG battery terminal and about 3 inches later goes into a single pin connector, I believe this one goes to a frame ground somewhere. That single pin connector had gotten a dose of battery acid at some point in the past and it is well corroded. The red white wire that supplies power to all of the affected circuits had a weak crimp to the terminal in one of the connectors, a gentle tug removed it from the terminal. As long as the bike is all apart I will replace the Main fuse with a Maxi Fuse. Repair the clutch switch and bushings. Eliminate the corroded connector in the frame ground wire. Solder all of the terminals in the connector that had the weak crimp. Then I can put it all back together, remove all of the jumpers and bypasses and wiring butchery that was done to get home, and while trouble shooting, to return all safety circuits to proper operation. and take a test ride with fingers crossed. So tomorrow I get to start tracking down parts to order.

A lot depends on if you have a lift, and id the bike has a lot of addons that might be in the way. But 3 hours is reasonable if you have never had the wheel off. 1.5 hours once you know where you are going. Even though you can do it taking off only one muffler, to me it is far faster and easier to take them both off.

Sorry to see that. The effects of brake fluid on plastic is well documented. Washing it off once the damage has started will not stop the damage, the bad spot will still continue to grow because the brake fluid soaks into the plastic and just keeps eating away. Sorry to say I do not know of a way to neutralize it and make it stop. When I work on the masters I use a plastic sheet and a bunch of towels to be sure that I get no brake fluid on any plastic. As soon as the masters are sealed back up and I carefully remove the towels and plastic sheet, I then flood the area with water just in case a drop got by.

That depends on if the fence is supposed to keep the crazies out or to keep them in so that society is not exposed to us.....I mean you crazies.

There is a tilt sensor on the first gen, I have it disconnected to eliminate it as a possible source of this problem. I now have EVERY component that could possibly cause this either jumpered or disconnected to eliminate it as a possibility. The only thing left is the wiring its self or a connector somewhere in the wire harness. That is this weekends project. Because this is very intermittent all I can not actually test anything, all I can do is try something and then go for a test ride to see if the problem comes back, and hope I can make it back home if it does.