Flyinfool

Running from him would be easy, it is a Harley after all, just don't try to outmaneuver him in a parking lot......

The solenoid is on the left side of the battery. Clicking is usually a sign of not enough voltage present to turn over the engine causing the solenoid to click while trying to start. If it is clicking and not cranking with a jump, there are only a few options left. 1. bad starter. 2. bad solenoid 3. corroded or bad connection 4. jumpers not making good contact at both ends. First make sure that the jumpers have good connections to the good battery and to your bike battery. If it still clicks, move the ground jumper cable to a bolt on the engine block. If it still clicks, then hit the pos wire terminal on the starter motor with the pos jumper cable. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE, IT WILL MAKE A BIG SPARK AND THE BIKE WILL CRANK REGARDLESS OF WHETHER IT IS IN GEAR OR NOT OR ANY OTHER SAFETY. If it still does not turn over call a tow truck or a friend with a trailer to get it home, You have bigger problems than you can fix on the side of the road. We can still help you fix it, it is just better done at home and may take a while to properly diagnose.

The ones marked as sold do not show a price, some of the unsold ones do show a price.

Sorry, but with LED it is always best to match the bulb color to the lens color. A white bulb puts out all colors of the rainbow and the lens filters out all of the other colors, but the color you want, in this case red, all the rest of that light energy is wasted and will never bee seen by anyone. By matching LED bulb color to lens color, you will get the maximum light output.

The difference is Chi town is trying to kill ME, Bangkok is not.

Even more interesting is they have no "W" up there .......

You do have to do some passenger training. This may still require the room with the mirrored ceiling. At low speed or stopped the passenger must sit still, or you will need that vid on picking the bike up. At speed the passenger is not heavy enough to make much difference if any. There is a vid around somewhere that shows a bike modified with a second set of handlebars bolted to the frame so that the driver can not make unconscious minor tweaks to the steering, to show the effects of weight shift alone. This was on a crotch rocket type bike. With the driver hanging way off to the side like one would expect a racer to do in the corners, the bike just barely made a slow lane change.

Yup If it wont go chrome it.

Are you talking about the sheet metal retainer is cracked or the casting that the pins go into is cracked? If it is the casting that is cracked, there is a new version available that does not use pins and will be a permanent fix for this problem.

So thats where I got it from. I'll be sending you the bill.........

Be sure to study for those tests.......... Wishing you the best.

Any chance of getting a magnet in to the oil pan to fish it out? Is the bottom of the oil pan shaped smooth enough that the pin could find its way to the sump and be fished out from there with a magnet?

Say it isn't so.........

I do not think it is the ignition switch. The headlight, fan, and turn signals do not go out and they are all on the same contact. but then that brown wire out of the switch does branch out to 5 different places. Where ever that junction is located between the switch and the fuse panel may have an issue. I'll add that to the list.

Even 131,000kms is not considered real high mileage on these bikes. that is only 81,400 miles.

DOH!!!!! To much time in the sun. George Thanks for that, Checking all of the connectors was part of the next step, but I did not know where they were, you explanations with locations will help a lot. Now if I can just post this once........

I agree with Dingy, those holes do look oval, If they are, would it help to put some green Loctite bearing retainer on the pins?

I am sure that this is electrical in nature. If it were fuel related the tach would not instantly go to zero, and the cruise would not instantly shut off and it would still crank with the start button. At this point I have the side stand switch jumpered, the kill switch jumpered, the tip over bypassed, the neutral switch bypassed, clutch switch jumpered, and the issue is still there. Every component that can give ALL of these symptoms at the same time has been removed from the circuit. A bad coil or TCI would not show all of these issues at the same time. The only thing left is a bad wire or a bad connector. everything else is either bypassed, jumpered or removed from the circuit. But then it is getting worse. So maybe soon it will fail altogether so that I can track it down. Bet ya never heard anyone WISH for a failure real soon........

I am sure that this is electrical in nature. If it were fuel related the tach would not instantly go to zero, and the cruise would not instantly shut off and it would still crank with the start button. At this point I have the side stand switch jumpered, the kill switch jumpered, the tip over bypassed, the neutral switch bypassed and the issue is still there. A bad coil or TCI would not show all of these issues at the same time. The only thing left is a bad wire or a bad connector. everything else is either bypassed, jumpered or removed from the circuit. But then it is getting worse. So maybe soon it will fail altogether so that I can track it down. Bet ya never heard anyone WISH for a failure real soon........

I'm not old enough for that yet........

Well it is not just the kill switch. Went to head out for a test run to day with the kill switch jumpered out. I made it a whole half of a block and the same. My emergency jumpers got me back home. The only option left is a bad connection or a damaged wire SOMEWHERE. Since it is intermitant, there is no sure way to test for the problem, so I now have to start designing and build my LED test board so that when it does intermit I can quickly look down to see which led is indicating an issue. Did I ever mention that I HATE intermitent issues more than Big Tom hates SNOW.

Look at all of the noggin lumps someone saved you......

:sign yeah that: Its not about brawn or weight, It is all technique to get the bike up on the center stand. I am not a small or wimpy person either, but I could not for the life of me get the bike up on the center stand. When I went back to the dealer that I bought it from I asked the salesman about it. He came outside and the bike just jumped up on center for him. He is all of 5'6" and maybe 120 lbs soaking wet with a lot of pocket change. Once he showed me how to do it, its nothing.

As long as there is no Green Bay Packer bike around.........

Now why would one park at a 2nd gen crossing to look for 1st gens???? Since the 2nd gens are now discontinued antiques, it is obvious that the trailer is there waiting for second gens.