videoarizona

Mike, Let me know which one you chose as I see two units listed for the RSV's. Difference in price so I'm confused...

Andy, Here is a link to a thread about the throttle linkage and where the cruise control is.... https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?49415-Throttle-cable-adjustment Check to make sure the cruise linkage hasn't bound up or something....I have problems thinking that the carb bodies are bad and the "throttle plates" are sticking or stuck. Just doesn't happen normally. Has to be really gummed up for that to be a problem and usually some good old carb cleaner sprayed down the throats with some gentle finger persuasion will unstick those babies... Back to the drawing boards...good luck. Let us know what you find....

Andy, Welcome! To look over the linkages and carbs: Take off driver's seat. 2 bolts underneath. Turn off petcock. Undo the 2 screws holding the cover around the gas fill. Take off the vent tube. Unplug electrical connector. Undo tank. One bolt in rear that was hidden by front of seat, 2 bolts on left front/right front. There's a plastic cover over them that just pops off. Lift tank a touch...maybe a few inches..enough to watch the linkages. Put a small block of wood under tank to hold it up. Unless you want to take it off. If yes, then take off the fuel line at the petcock and lift tank off. You might as well drain the tank...probably very old gas in there...Rinse. Watch the linkages as you gently try to twist the throttle. Understand that the carbs have two throttle wire systems, one for the right grip and one for the cruise control. Both come together at a round linkage under the left front (under where the tank hid it). Both the throttle grip and the cruise control come together there. From there, one set of cables goes to the carb set. In other words, your grip stuck issue may be on the grip itself and not on the throttles or carbs....or anywhere in between. So you need to look the situation over, look over the manuals and such, then start at one place (right throttle grip) and work toward the carbs until you find the problem. Or work backwards from the carbs...your call. It may be nothing more than lubrication of all the cables and junctions at each carb as @cowpuc mentioned. While you are in there, the choke (enrichment) knob should be checked for working easily as well. Making sure each enrichment circuit for each carb is opened and closed with the choke knob. Enjoy searching the older posts. The threads can be fascinating to follow. Know that at the bottom of each page, the web site adds suggested posts and threads that are related to what you are reading....so you can go way back just following the post suggestions at the bottom of each page. Good luck...and welcome again from another member from Arizona.

Read this. One of our members rebuilds the shocks. If the RSTD is the same as the 2nd Gen Ventures, then this might work for you... https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?132400-RSV-Repaired-Rear-Shock-2000-Mile-Update And welcome to the nuthouse! Lots of great help here...

Just a quickie this morning.... Went for a ride Saturday. 4 of us took off for Lake Pleasant to grab a bite for lunch. We were gone all day....it WAS a very nice day to ride! The clutch works just fine now and no leaks! Thanks @Freebird for the phone talk to clarify how the clutch went together. The parts kit worked perfectly, thanks to @skydoc_17 This is where we ate lunch...on the water.... Saw this the other day....reminded me of @cowpuc and his meet and eats... And then came across these pics in a magazine for you affluent types...(not me)...custom scoots. and for guns.... Figured youse guys who love these things can look up the web sites and enjoy browsing! Going to be a busy week ahead. Easter Bunny is coming to town followed by RV camping at Roosevelt Lake for 3 days... And then Cinco de Mayo we will be back at the lake on the boat. We party hard as it's the last sailing for us before the heat! In this pic, a younger me is about to get soaked. Look closely for the water in the air coming at me standing on my boat... Enjoy the Week and Happy Easter! May the bunny leave lots of eggies for the kidlets and grandkidlets!

Yikes! It's snowing at the Flyinfool residence! I remember that street...didn't have any white stuff on it when I was there! It is pretty though...but I'm done with cold. Now if you can figure out a way to "formulize" your white stuff for warmer weather, send some down. That way I can sit out back in my shorts and enjoy a hotdog and beer while it's snowing!

I always forget..... Sigh

I too am sorry to see you go. When I first found this forum, your responses to questions were like reading the Bible for Venture Royales. I learned a great deal following your threads, answers and posts. Thank you for being a member here and helping me find my way around the V4s!! Stay well and enjoy the next stage of your life!! david

My 05 "says" the flashers work with the key on only. I thought that was a mistake as who would want to have to leave the key on, lights and all, just to have the hazards on? But that's what it is on the 05 RSV. My 1st Gen hazards come on with key off. BTW, has anyone thought to ask, or know, how much parasitic draw the radio, odo, etc., draw normally? I'm curious how much "over the line" were you?

I decided against the 3.73 rear end. Figured with the 8 speed trannie, I wouldn't need it. I'm at 3.43 and just fine with that. Plus I love the mpg's when not towing! BTW, if I floor that big V8, there is the famous GMC pause while the system thinks about it, then she kicks in. Whoa. That is one quick truck...let me tell you. Yes, if you see that brake controller on the upper left on the earlier models, in the center console but the drivers vent for the 2019's. That indicates the built in (integrated) trailer towing package. That usually includes the coolers, the HD rear spring/shock the larger rear end and all the built in's for towing. The trailer sway is built in with the stabilitrac and traction control. Not to sure about that though as it's supposed to brake the individual wheels and /or reduce engine torque to reduce sway. I'm old school...if trailer sways, I floor it and pull her back in line! That sved my bacon when a tractor rig went by me flat out downhill in Pennsylvania and the boat started to dance. I floored the Yukon and the boat pulled right back in line....slowed down and changed my shorts.

2016 Sierra 1500 specs: Crew Cab Short Box 4.3L 6-speed auto 3.42 1770 7000 4WD 5.3L 6-speed auto 3.08 1730 6100 5.3L 6-speed auto 3.42 1730 9100 5.3L 6-speed auto 3.73 2130 10,800 5.3L 8-speed auto 3.42 1720 9100 5.3L 8-speed auto 3.42 2090 10,800 6.2L 8-speed auto 3.23 1690 9100 6.2L 8-speed auto 3.42 2010 11,700 Crew Cab Standard Box 5.3L 6-speed auto 3.08 1690 6100 4WD 5.3L 6-speed auto 3.42 1690 9100 5.3L 6-speed auto 3.73 2080 10,800 5.3L 8-speed auto 3.42 1660 9100 5.3L 8-speed auto 3.42 2030 10,700 6.2L 8-speed auto 3.23 1650 9100 6.2L 8-speed auto 3.423 1970 11,700 Max payload for 2016 looks like 2090 pounds for the 5.3ltr. Max for the 6.2 is 2010lbs. That's quite a lot actually.

That's going to be loaded Q&A's for sure!! Kind of like what brand oil do you use! I'm going to get that fridge shut off switch after I get caught up with mounting the MicroAir and buying the solar suitcase. For now, turning off the fridge before going up big hills is easy and cheap!

More on the Easy Start: https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?variant=30176048267 Auto Fridge thingie: https://www.arprv.com/products.php Unless you get a heavy toy hauler, then you don't need a 2500 truck. The toy hauler can also do 4 batteries. But seriously, with 2 6 volt batts, the above EasyStart and a solar suitcase and a small gennie, you should be good. You can run AC when needed and don't have to find room and carry the extra batteries. Seriously, I had a heck of a time fitting 2 6 volts on my trailer. Most trailer tongues can take 2 batts...but where would you put the other two? I thought long and hard about all this before I bought the 2014 Coleman 249RB. it's light enough to load up and tow, enough storage for us to last a week somewhere without a store or campground and has all the amenities (except hiding a scoot) that we would need. As far as finding a GMC Sierra with hauling. Here is an example of what's available in my area. I used Edmunds because the site allows you to go down the left side selecting what features you want then they show what's available. It's a good way to compare. I chose the Sierra 1500 in SLT or Denali trim, 4X4, tow package. And got these choices. https://www.edmunds.com/inventory/srp.html?extcolor=%22White%20Frost%20Tricoat%7C245%2C243%2C241%22%2C%22Onyx%20Black%7C0%2C0%2C0%22%2C%22Summit%20White%7C255%2C255%2C255%22&cgf=%2210%2C000lb%2B%20Towing%20Capacity%22%2CAWD%2F4WD&inventorytype=used%2Ccpo&make=gmc&model=sierra-1500&submodelid=Crew%20Cab&trim=slt%2Cdenali&drivetrain=four%20wheel%20drive Try this for your area....Almost all SLE's, SLT's and Denalis can be found with the HD trailer package. This includes the engine and trannie cooling, integrated brake controller, better rear end ratio, stiffer rear springs, etc.. You can confirm the HD towing package as the brake controller is on far left dash above the lights and 4X4 controller. That would be my recommendation. I really like the 6.2ltr...but yes it does suggest premium fuel. My used truck was used a lot in Mexico and their premium is not very good. Pemex doesn't have a good reputation. I've run 3 tankfuls of Costco premium so far and she is beginning to smooth out. The 5.3ltr with the 8 speed trannie would also be a good choice. It will easily pull 7000 pounds. Warnings: The Ford Ecoboost Boost V6 is a good motor, but to climb those big hills you will be near max rpm the whole way for both turbos to really do their job. Supposedly the motor is designed for that. Time will tell. Ram's new trucks are very nice. But after living in Chrysler land for 30 years...I just don't trust their interiors anymore. The Yukon XL was my fist GMC product. I'm sold on them. Yea, they have their problems, especially the 2014 and 2015 model trucks with trannies, but if you find one that shifts well and was well taken care of, it should last forever with that big V8 just chugging along. These guys are pretty cool in their testing. Go up and down the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado. Watch the current reviews of the 1/2 tons, then search their older videos for more. https://www.tfltruck.com/2016/02/2016-chevy-silverado-5-3l-v8-vs-2016-gmc-sierra-6-2l-v8-mega-comparison-video-preview/ Ah man, that page isn't available anymore. Maybe if you search on the site you will find the review since it was made in 2016 and is perfect for what you are looking for. Found it: Anyway....enough stuff to wet the appetite...enjoy!

The Sierra 1500 SLT with HD trailer package and 2wheel drive... and the equivalent Ford and Dodge can do 2K or more pounds payload. Plus are rated for around 11 to 12k towing. My Sierra Denali 4wd is rated for 11K towing. Factory hitch is rated for 1K tongue and 12K towing with WD Hitch. 8k and 800lbs with standard hitch. My payload is 2200lbs I believe.

I've saved my pennies over the past year and got 4 out of 5 things I thought I needed for boondocking. My Momma wants to go to National Parks and they fill up years in advance, so we are planning on boondocking just outside the parks then drive truck in like a normal tourist! 1: Generator 2: Solar panel 3: Easy start for AC. 4: Pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries, GC2's 5: Led interior lighs I got #1 and #3 and #4 and #5 . Not installed yet on #3 ...but I caught both #1 and #3 on sale so had to pull the plug... Honda and Champion have really good reps and the new gens coming into Costco and Sam's Club (Yamaha engines) seem to be good as well. The reason for #3 is to be able to run a quiet, portable 2kw gennie and use the 13.5kw AC! Yeppers....MicroAir makes a unit that is worth it's weight in electricity! Video below. Not a capacitor, rather a unit that learns your system's start up procedure then starts your AC with the least amount of current draw. Will NOT harm the AC. You still can't run both AC and the microwave at the same time on a 2kw gennie, but that's easy to fix. Turn off AC when it's time to cook! They have install instructions for almost every brand of AC unit.....had one for my Advent brand. The solar panels...well...I looked at Harbor Freight. They have a 4 panel, 100 watt complete system for $200. But I didn't want to deal with 4 panels. Decided to go with a suitcase 2 panel system for $100 more. Also very, very good reviews. I'm still saving pennies for this one: https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-w-voyager/ The batteries. I had 1, 12 volt group 24 deep cycle but it would only last one night if I needed the heat. And it's not a true deep cycle. So out the door it went. Interstate and Trojan are the best for GC2 batts (golf cart). 2-6 volts to get 12 volts, and they are true deep cycle...and have at least 200 amps of power. VS 60 to 70 on a typical car/marine/rv battery. Since you should only draw down the battery to no less than 50%, that only leaves 30 to 35 amps of power available before you hurt the battery. If you know this stuff, apology...but if not: Here is a simple example... Typical "hybrid" (not true deep cycle) type deep cycle marine/rv battery specs...12 volts, 750 cranking amps. Divide 750 by 12 equals 62.5 amps available for continuous, deep cycle use. Less 50% discharge...31 amps. Each 12 volt light filament draws 1 amp (10 watts). 12 lights turned on equals 12 amps her hour used. Doing the math is simplistic at best cause there are other factors involved but it's easy to see just using lights and radio, along with the little current the fridge uses, the gas alarms...and it adds up. My 2 6 volt GC batts give out 210 amps. 50% discharge leaves 105 amps for use. That's typically 2 or 3 days without heater running! Add a solar panel during the day and you can go a week. Change over to LED lights inside and you can add another day! I found my Interstates at Costco, but then ran into a small company in Tucson who made up my battery cables and he would have come very close to matching my Costco buy with his Trojans! Yikes! More power for just a tad more bux! So check your small local guys...Enough of the boring stuff.. Trojan has the best rep and about the best amp for the bux.....Trojan T-105. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trojan-T-105-6-Volt-Golf-Cart-Battery-battery-RV-marine-solar-deep-cycle-/173729309585 I found the interstate at Costco. 210 amp hours. I bought my Honda 2200i at Camping World on sale for $850. BTW, Camping World store will match their own print/internet pricing. That's how I got such a good deal on the gennie. The Champion 2Kw are around $500 and so are the 2kws at Costco and Sams Club. 2 GC2's on my tongue. Battery shut off switch on far left...mounted on a cover. Second pic shows the switch. Last thought: We have a number of 7 degree grade hills, 4 to 7 miles long in Arizona. With the Yukon, I would go up them at 45mph, flashers on, in 2nd gear...with no problems. I do turn off the propane on the fridge when doing so as the grade is steeper than the fridge is supposed to run at (3 to 6 degrees tilts) and I don't want the heater in the fridge to overheat and burn down my trailer. The RV fridge will last a few hours and stay at the temps needed without cooling so I'm good. Plus I fill with frozen water bottles to help anyway. I'm done...again apologies if you know all this stuff... Come on down in the winter, November through March. Good places to camp around here.

Spence, Ah man...I could have sent some stuff your way. Like the towing mirrors, brake controller, rear grocery slider cover and more. But see you have the same mirrors! I gave all the extra stuff to the dealer to include with the truck...My bad...I should have asked the forum to see if anyone needed anything I might have. Yea...nice wheels these Yukons! Take care of her and she will last forever. BTW, I was towing my trailer at 6500lbs. Only issue was Oklahoma, I-40 westbound. Heavy head winds and uphill all the way west. 3rd gear at 62mph.....but she did that all day! So unless you go above that weight in your next trailer, your Yukon may still fit the bill and tow it fine. Only reason I traded her in was that Sierra Denali was whispering my name. Plus, they gave me one heck of a deal as well.... We need to have an RV week somewhere with the members of the forum who have RVs! Hmmmm.... OH...thanks for the thoughts.

Well the time came for me to change vehicles. Last week, got hit in the rear while stopped at a light in Tucson. As usual, slight damage to the Yukon but the Ford lost the front end due to my hitch doing a number on him. Been hit 3 times in 15 years in rear...each time truck was stopped. Great frame on that truck! While at the dealer getting an estimate to replace the bumper mount, saw a 2015 Sierra 1500 Denali. Those of you who know me, know I speak "auto speak". My bikes talk to me all the time. So did the Yukon. Well..this pearly white Denali was whispering for me to take it for a ride....so I did. In the rain yet! My mistake. I now own that truck! Can't say anything bad about the Yukon XL SLT. It has been the best vehicle I've ever owned. 219K miles, most of it crossing the country with a 2 ton sailboat on the back. Never replaced the brakes, alternator, water pump, AC compressor...nope....nothing. Did replace the front wheel bearings at 206K miles...but that was it. Basically all original....Still running great and getting 18 mpgs average! Yowser. This is an interesting vehicle for sure. No where near as comfortable as the Yukon XL, but that was a luxury SUV. This baby is a TRUCK! 6.2ltr, 8 speed that hauls! Plus, what a kick to look down and see this... I was able to hold over 30 mpg's for a few miles until traffic got it the way... I also found this site. If you own a 2014 to 2018 Sierra or Silverado...there may be some really neat tricks that aren't in the book that your truck will do. I found some on mine! https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/212121-discovered-features-you-may-not-know-about/ Will always be thankful to the Yukon XL for safely hauling my butt all over the country. We've been through a lot together...sniff... But now it's time to turn the page and move on....crossing fingers the Sierra will last as long as the Yukon. And hope the PO got all the bugs worked out too! Now I have to figure out all these do dads and electronic "stuff". Geesh...this truck does everything except brush my teeth!

Yea..that! Congrats on the surgery and Happy Birthday!!

Ah...LOL....got it! True, we haven't talked. Some day when my leak gets the best of me I'll contact you. So far, I've looked at the neutral/shift switch, the slave cylinder attachment point and under the engine. Haven't been able to see anything yet from the left rear (#1) cylinder to see if the valve cover gasket is leaking. Nothing from the twinkie or any area around the stator, stator wires, etc.. Also looked at the main oil seal at the rear of the engine just before the U-joint. There is some seepage there....or it could be where some of the oil leak is sitting after being blown back. The kickstand area of the frame is the low point so the leak can be anywhere... I'll get there eventually!

I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not? Memory going in my brain? But don't remember. I'm not going to worry about it....my little leak is still there....and I still go for a ride now and then and then look over the scoot after the ride with a black light looking for the leak. I'll find it at some point. Note to Self: think outside the box....

That's my thinking, too.

That noise? I never considered that noise to be the gear whine....I always thought of that as my turbo spooling up. Love these V4's! I have to laugh to see @cowpuc and Tippy on my 2nd gen in Michigan! Love it. I did get a nice nap while they were out riding the roads!

Snyper, we need to talk. I never even thought about the clutch rod as the area looked fine with no residual oil under the slave. Tell me more about how you replaced the seal? I think I saw a write up a long time ago...came in from the other side? david

Thank You, Scott. I watched the whole thing....

If you can get a vin, one of our members Prariehammer can look up and get you the year of scoot. You may have same issues with frame and trannie. Good find on the frame