syscrusher

So you've always replaced the conical washers with a new flat one?

I suppose the ones below the seal are also flat?

If reasonably priced I would like to buy the rider footpegs and foot controls, down to and including the black mounting plates for a project. I would also like to buy the chromed cover plates that are near the footpegs on either side. LMK?

Max10 posting above also has one conical washer. When I looked at mine they were machine formed like they were supposed to be that way. I'm seriously thinking about using the flat one that I was sent but I am concerned that the seal would be able to move up and down slightly since the flat washer consumes much less room than the conical washer. On the left fork the conical washer doesn't easily fit into the "crown" area of the slider tube though so I wanted a replacement for it. I'd really like to hear from someone with a 1990 or newer VR since that is when they dropped the dust seal and added a cover boot. Maybe there were other changes at that time as well?

I'm aware of this. Yamaha has claimed to have shipped 45 of the 26H-23149 with no complaints except mine. The service manual depicts a part 21 both above and below the seal on page 6-32. If you look closely at the photo of the internals the ID of the one above the seal is larger than the ID of the one below. This gives the one below the seal a broader "margin". I think there are different versions of this washer without a superceeded number. The flat washer probably allows enough room for the taller aftermarket seals I've read about to fit. MiCarl, which style are you more accustomed to seeing?

Didn't quote but I'll try my spin on some of the things said. On a bike it's not really going to be detrimental to send 14.8 volts to lighting, horn, or starter and the items where a slight overvoltage will be problematic are low current and incorporate their own regulator/limiting circuits. I can't really respond about lifecycle but my old lead acid unit was never ready when I wanted to ride unless I had just ridden it within days and it was only a year old. On the other hand the one previous to that may have been original which would have lasted eight years. The warm-up procedure that I am aware of consists of trying the starter. This initiates new chemical activity and the subsequent attempt is met with greater vigor, nothing too complicated. Their charger has not yet been necessary for me. For my NiMh hybrid car batteries, they are maintained at around 50% when driving. This provides the best longevity. I know apples and oranges, but for some batteries 100% charge isn't advisable, it sounds like maybe LFP batteries share this trait if the storage charger is 50% as well. I would be willing to bet a trophy nickel that most of these would start a 1300cc motorcycle while at 50% charge! The real advantage of Shorai's fancy charger is in it's abilities to bring a LFP battery back from the brink and whatnot. Their website says that the batteries work fine with existing charging circuits of cars and motorcycles and with battery tenders, etc. The street price of a LFP battery that is large enough for my 2053cc V-Twin was around $170. The spec is for one of the largest MC batteries that one could need to buy. It was a LFX18A1-BS12 with 270 cold cranking amps. This is similar to the largest batteries that Amazon lists for the VR at a price of $115. So sure, it's more expensive, but I'll bet it would solve some of these slow cranking issues that I read about.

On your VR, was there a conical washer under your fork oil seal or a flat one? What year is your VR? Mine are conical, the ID rises above the OD. Bill W. sent me a picture of the fork internal from another thread that shows flat ones. http://www.venturerider.org/forkseals/george/21.jpg I ordered the part for the washer under my seal but received a flat washer instead of conical. What kind of washers did you find under your oil seal?

Yes, flange down. Maybe a wooden dowel that fits the oil lock closely. Insert and rock it gently to dislodge the oil lock piece?

Lighted spaces alternating with blanks like passing a picket fence can cause whats called "flicker fits" if one is susceptible. I am not myself, but can see how that would screw with someone. I was waiting at a light next to a diesel truck that had big chrome panels over the rear of the huge upswept pipes. The cover on my side was a little loose and moved with the pulses of the trucks engine at a fairly low rate of speed reflecting the sun glare differently with each cycle. That was really freaking annoying and I recall thinking about it could probably set someone off.

This is usually responsible for rough running after a carwash but the recessed plug sockets can get water inside and then when heat from the engine turns that water to steam the plugs are shunted to ground by steam rising into the plug wire heads. If you suspect this, pull plug wires off of plugs and blow out sockets and plug wire heads with compressed air until dry dry dry.

Yeah! And on the DR650 the battery is right under my chestnuts ready to roast 'em to toasty goodness!

Even if it doesn't work on your door you could buy the keychain remote for your door and wire it in instead of the larger of the two boards. The red and green leads that are attached to it are supplying coin battery level power for the board and the blue leads are coming from your dash mounted switch and are making one of the connections for the pushbutton switches on the remote. Just insert your own remote and you're good to go. I do think that I recognize the remote though and it is for the previous generation of Chamberlain/LiftMaster/Craftsman garage door openers and the remote will work with (nearly) anything from those distributors except for the very most recent door openers, or maybe really old ones that are before the rolling codes technology. It's a 970 or 956. Was replaced by the 890 MAX, which works with the most recent openers too. Definitely try programming it in for use with your door if you have a lift from any of those companies.

UPS will only pay off on damage insurance if you pay them to pack the item so it can get expensive to get insurance from UPS. I'll bet a trophy nickel that UPS also would not pay on an insurance claim for theft after delivery so the money spent on insurance would likely have been wasted anyway. DID THE BUYER ASK YOU TO SHIP THE PACKAGE WITH A SIGNATURE REQUIREMENT? If no, then you did do all that you were asked to do, but not all that you could have done because you could have made the signature requirement. If yes, then you didn't execute the shipping to adequate standards and you are partly or even substantially responsible for the loss. How much money was involved?

That would be the simplest way to implement, wouldn't it? I wonder why my DR650 isn't doing that.

On my '93 the last bar goes away before I have to go to reserve. This is usually after using about 4 gallons or less of fuel.

I need to go through the procedure again pretty soon but I'm still a little confused. I watched the video and they used the seal driver to drive home the seal spacer P/N 26H-23149 not the upper slide bushing, although maybe the slide bushing also gets positioned when doing this. That could help explain why the one on my left lower tube seems to fit poorly. I will have to take a good look at things while taking all of this into account when I do mine again in a week or so.

In theory I kind of like this but haven't bought it yet. Let me know if you do? http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=IMC-HS-G140P

Have had a Shorai in my dual sport bike for a year now and I love it! I can leave the bike sit for the Winter and it is ready to go when I am. Lots of power. The Flyinfool knows that stepping down the voltage isn't a real issue, it's pretty simple and inexpensive to do. Shorai sells their own charger for optimal charging but the circuits in my DR650 seem to do fine keeping it topped up, as stated by Shorai as well. Claim is for 7 years or so of service and I'll have to see if that happens. An interesting aside, the new battery is more powerful than spec'd one was but also smaller. It shipped with lots of stick-on foam pieces that you use to build up the battery size and fill out the battery box. This has the side effect of padding the battery pretty well against damage. I may never buy another lead acid battery.

Check out Shorai Future Power LFP (Lithium FerroPhosphate) batteries. They cost a little more but they're always ready to gogo. Also lighter weight, smaller, more powerful. Unless you're afraid of flaming out like the Tesla: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFUNPpn4080]Tesla Fire Sparks Panic Over Company's Future - YouTube[/ame]

I was waiting for you to say that you were feeling younger.... bike running backward....going back in time....charge decreasing..... I wonder if the headlight is a clue. On my 1993 the headlight comes on when I turn on the key. It turns off when I crank and then turns on when the engine starts. It's HID and the on state is fully, it cycles the ballast to do the the high voltage discharge above breakover threshold to get the HID to plasma level. This is as opposed to the way my dual sport bike behaves as it lights the HID when the key is on but never interrupts and re-establishes the lighting circuit, it just can't supply enough current to the tube to keep it lit when you begin cranking. I then fire up the HID by flipping the switch to bright (halogen) and back. So, I suspect that on my 1993, if I don't get the engine started the headlight doesn't relight either but I'm curious and I've rambled on quite a bit here so I guess I'd better check this detail tomorrow.

Sounds like pre-winter "bulking" to me.

I'm in. What kinda surgery are we having again?

Post a link to it?

Here's the best picture I could get of it. One of the disc bolts is replaced with a magnetic one and the sensor needed to go on the caliper bracket to be in the field. When you look at this the sensor is partially obscured by the caliper bracket mounting points on the fork itself.

When the white bike stopped in front of the suv with all of the other bikes around the driver of the suv had every reason to feel threatened. At that point the driver of the suv was justified in doing whatever was required to get away. Stopping in front of another moving vehicle that should be going down the road save for the bike arbitrarily stopped in front of it is NOT something that is alright for bikers riding in a group to do. The other bikes can just catch up, you cannot just stop traffic arbitrarily because you are riding in a group. It's not even really a good idea to block a lane at intersections so that your party can pass, although it happens and is largely tolerated even though there is no legal basis or protection for doing so.