IronMike

Yep Thats the steel. Pretty much identical to the woo loo but some feel its better made.

I did the chrome wooloo I have done a few on bikes and this one took the longest. But I made my own bracket and wire harness. Some tips, It will mount on the right side stock location. I ground down a chrome bracket bought at a truck stop worked perfect. Its just a right angle mirror bracket. The stock horn plug I just split in half and plugged the two blades direct to the relay in the right spots. Can't remember the numbers. Anyways that saves slicing stock wire harness or any funny jumpers. Relay went under right side cover. Use loom on wire from 30 on relay to battery and fuse it close to battery. I ran ground from horn direct to the mount I made. The bracket bolts to the bikes ground. Use a ground washer. The two wires that connect to the horn should be terminated with a right angle blade terminal so it better clears the exhaust. They are hard to find. Pep boys had them where I live. I have 5k miles on mine, no problems. It looks like it would melt there but the exhaust is double walled or shielded there. Just long as the wires don't touch. Zip tie everything so it don't hang down or relax. Coat the hooked up relay with WD 40 and hang it wires down. It gets a lot more attention than a factory horn. No horn will overcome a lot of things going on in these cats now a days, ear buds, big stereos, soundproofing. But you'll have a better chance and at the least you can scare the bejesus out of someone walking slow across the street.

Well that aint bad, I bought the full and compkete turn signal set from custom dynamics. Another member clues me in that it is not full and complete for our bikes its a generic kit they wanted me to order another $85 of stuff to make it work but warns not to use the 4 ways. And the equilizer will get hot. I said na. Returned it unopened and the refunded me an amout minus $50 restocking fee and $8 shipping. So it cost me over $75 after I shipped it back unopened to look at it. Never do business with custom dynamics. To check what I am saying click complete turn signal kits then venture. It says ready to go nothing else needed. RIP OFFS!

Well im sure a large settlement is in order for pain and suffering. No one likes to see this happen from either side. Best thing is. To learn from the mistake. Thise that were involved and everyone who sees the video. Light it up. Btw I just rode past the scene of the accident.

Air pressure and mechanical fitness of the bike is sole responsibly if the rider. Period. Period Period. Who gets road rash or dies if something is wrong rider or mechanic? You can take it to dealer but is your responsibly to check his work before riding. Think it through.

Ohio State Troopers amongst the best in the nation. We all have had a bad day at work. In that line of work obviously a small mistake is a big disaster! I guarantee you. He did not get into his car to hunt down a biker. His job pretty much IS distracted driving running radar and such. As a truck driver I get a look into their cars as they pass and in 30 years I've never seen one on a phone. Bikes get rear ended a lot. No excuse for his act. I'm just saying he did not aim to do it any more than we would aim to forget to put a sidestand down . Our any of the other mistakes we can make that lead to disaster. For the pride they have of being professional I'm surprised he's still working and didn't jump off a cliff for such a careless act. I hope there is more to the story. But what we. Need to take from this is a lesson of increased visibility. First increase your lighting from all sides. I even have side lights. Second. Try for a trunk or high mount brake light. Third. A flashing brake light that flashes 3 to 5 times and goes solid. In some states its no legal but who cares. I never heard of anyine getting a ticket for it. Fourth. Add reflectors tgat catch light from different angles. Some of the tape blends in pretty good by day but really noticeable at night. And lastly. Your bike has six sides. The most important is the space you are moving into and the second most important is the things that are moving into your space. A crash happens when two vehicles try to occupy the same space. In this case the biker could and should have noticed the car closing too fast from the rear.... he should have flashed his brake lights and if the car did not slow down he should have taken his out. (the shoulder) I would think in this case trooper was fixed on where radar was aiming and biker was fixed on looking out for wildlife. Easy mistakes on both accounts that neither will ever make again. Try not to judge the trooper so much but learn from the video. Increase your visibility especially at night. With the use of extra lighting. Reflectors and reflective clothing. And not only be mindful of the space you're moving into but also whats moving into you from all six sides. (Top & bottom are the other two) because you can always be Dead Right and these two almost were. Smith system. Aim high in steering. (Look way ahead) Get the big picture. (See all of what you're looking at.) Keep your eyes moving. (This means mirrors too every few seconds) Leave yourself and out. (Where will I go if something happens) Make sure they see you. (In this case flash of brake lights. If no reaction to them use your out. ) Ive seen the video 100 times. Very chilling. Every time.

Huh, I would have strongly suggested radial tires for several reasons. http://www.michelinag.com/Innovating/Radial-vs.-Bias-technology I think you better check a little more. Why do you think radials are so popular and are factory on so many things now. Ask yourself whats the advantage of Bias ply? Seriously? Now I only have a few million miles pulling trailers. Absolutely zero behind a bike though. But like I said, I would seriously check that out with some tire experts.

Yep, And i say they only way to actually check them is with a gauge, kicking determines nothing, the tire is so thick anyways a kick does nothing. I would think that low would make it squishy enough to flip you. Dealer carries no blame, you should check you own tires prior to every trip, you can run over something and a slow leak down can happen any time.

I ordered the Pump and I am switching over and going to sell my old pump that works fine. So I NEED someone to donate the Plug end off an old pump so I don't have to cut my good one! I go too long and too far from home to have any pump problems. So I am doing the switch out now. Of course I'll do a how to with pictures. But I will need the wire end cut off an old Pump. anyone?

Well the Austone Taxi tire is on my Roadstar, it handles great but it's no where near as good on tread life as the Vendresien Comtrac, I only switched because the Comtrac is no longer available in the US. They could not figure out why hey sold so many ONE at a time LOL I can't remember how the Roadstar handled with Bike tires, I went Darkside and never went back.

I put about 40K miles on a Darkside tire set up with Rear tires on front, on Darkside forums the thinking about it having to be reverse direction was reversed and I then began to rotate it every 5K miles and I can;t even remember the last time I bought a rear tire for the front. The ONLY difference I noticed was longer wear and it enhanced the handling with the Austone Taxi tire on the rear. This is on my Roadstar, and I clicked on this thread because i have 5K miles on my Venture with a Bike tire front and rear, and it's dangerous in comparison to the Darkside set up, so I'm wanting to go Darkside on the Venture too. You can have more action when you have more traction. I just did the PA Elk Scenic Route, I came out of a switchback and a car was left of center on me "Looking for Elk" I hit the brakes on gravel and I was strictly a passenger for about 30 feet. A darkside tire does not do that.

Just Exactly where do you live from I 80, maybe I can help you so much you won;t even need to mess with the doors! And what size ball will I need? 2 inch?

So, you want to order a backrest and see what all is involved in installation. Here's a peek. I have seen just a few backrests I would consider, and after I considered all my needs and wants and backrest experience, I decided upon the Utopia http://www.utpr.com/ In setting up my 2008 Venture this add on hands down went the smoothest thanks to the Vender. Everything went exactly as planned, it arrived exactly when he said it would Vendor gets 100% score in all categories. Order, promise, shipping, notifications, packaging, material, finish, and directions. But I am about to add PHOTOS, Can't beat that! First unpack and be sure you have everything you need. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0517_zpsa7c60d92.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0518_zps94840cf1.jpg Remove the stock seat and you will find two push pins that you will remove and save for future use in your extra venture Parts box. The holes shown here are the ones you will need to drill out to a larger size per instructions included. The directions say you DO NOT need to remove the rear seat, but come on, take it off for more working room and clean and wax under there! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0519_zps0632d038.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0520_zps13d72fee.jpg The drill bit size is listed in instructions, just be sure you do not go too big. The most caution is needed here so as not to punch through and accidentally modify your rear fender or paint job, so as you can see I have covered mine with a paper to prevent scratches, and then took a high power magnet to hold a old door panel tool made of steel to take any punch through impact. Love using magnets to hold things! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0530_zpsa1a942fe.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0529_zps943a04f5.jpg Next you want to separate and arrange your wires so that they will not get crushed, rubbed or pinched by the metal bracket on the Utopia Backrest. This may take a while and the use of some plastic door panel tools may come in handy. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0532_zps81cd9e85.jpg This is what I ended up with after 3 or 4 minutes of wrestling. You do not want the metal bracket to flex and pinch your wires as you lean back on it. I actually had a neato torpedo auto outdoor rated sponge that has glue on one side, I stuck it under the bracket on the fender. You may have something like that too. It will prevent the wires from creeping back under the bracket. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0521_zpsf2afa414.jpg As an extra step I vacuum up all the metal shavings and coat the drilled hole with a rust preventative product so the bare metal hole will not corrode. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0522_zps33e986be.jpg We use this product to hold our Go Pro nuts in place and I have had a lot of luck with it on the rest of the bike, as we all know blue threadlocker melts ABS plastic so I try not to use any on the bike. This seems to work as well. As of this writing I have 5K miles on the backrest. No problems. So put some on and get ready to bolt on the seat backrest bracket. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0531_zpsa7f9980d.jpg Now all you do is put the backrest in place as directed, and put the bolts in but do not tighten until you get them both started. Crank them down to spec, and your almost done! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0524_zps01f5fbb1.jpg This plastic piece is a option thats nice to have, it slips on the bracket and keeps the bracket from rubbing against the rear seat so much. I would say yes, get it. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0528_zps10465a52.jpg Next you just put the back rest bracket on the support bracket. I always put the nut on the sidestand side of the bike. That way if it comes off, the bolt will stay in until you discover it missing. But, the threadlocker is a good idea here, as well as the included nylon nut. Now all you have to do is follow the directions included to adjust it to your liking, this may take several rides and some moving of nuts and bolts and you'll get it perfect soon and thats where it will stay forever. Just adjust it wearing the gear you ride with as having a jacket on with spinal protection will make a difference. Also you will be getting on and off the bike in a different manner now that you have the backrest installed, so be conscious of this first few times and develop a new mounting method and stick with it! Once you get it where you want it put a dab of the glue on the threads and it will stay put. Also modify your pre ride inspection to now include the backrest components, mostly you will just have to be sure it is secure, tight and the nuts and bolts are all there. On the back is a compartment with a zipper, be sure it is zipped so it does not catch wind. Utopia Vinyl matched my stock seats like it came off the same roll! Perfect! Everyone thinks its factory! (I'm like "No i paid for that!") http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/20130829_181308_zpsa58c2b6c.jpg Congratulations you have just extended your riding time!

So, you want to order a backrest and see what all is involved in installation. Here's a peek. I have seen just a few backrests I would consider, and after I considered all my needs and wants and backrest experience, I decided upon the Utopia http://www.utpr.com/ In setting up my 2008 Venture this add on hands down went the smoothest thanks to the Vender. Everything went exactly as planned, it arrived exactly when he said it would Vendor gets 100% score in all categories. Order, promise, shipping, notifications, packaging, material, finish, and directions. But I am about to add PHOTOS, Can't beat that! First unpack and be sure you have everything you need. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0517_zpsa7c60d92.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0518_zps94840cf1.jpg Remove the stock seat and you will find two push pins that you will remove and save for future use in your extra venture Parts box. The holes shown here are the ones you will need to drill out to a larger size per instructions included. The directions say you DO NOT need to remove the rear seat, but come on, take it off for more working room and clean and wax under there! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0519_zps0632d038.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0520_zps13d72fee.jpg The drill bit size is listed in instructions, just be sure you do not go too big. The most caution is needed here so as not to punch through and accidentally modify your rear fender or paint job, so as you can see I have covered mine with a paper to prevent scratches, and then took a high power magnet to hold a old door panel tool made of steel to take any punch through impact. Love using magnets to hold things! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0530_zpsa1a942fe.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0529_zps943a04f5.jpg Next you want to separate and arrange your wires so that they will not get crushed, rubbed or pinched by the metal bracket on the Utopia Backrest. This may take a while and the use of some plastic door panel tools may come in handy. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0532_zps81cd9e85.jpg This is what I ended up with after 3 or 4 minutes of wrestling. You do not want the metal bracket to flex and pinch your wires as you lean back on it. I actually had a neato torpedo auto outdoor rated sponge that has glue on one side, I stuck it under the bracket on the fender. You may have something like that too. It will prevent the wires from creeping back under the bracket. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0521_zpsf2afa414.jpg As an extra step I vacuum up all the metal shavings and coat the drilled hole with a rust preventative product so the bare metal hole will not corrode. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0522_zps33e986be.jpg We use this product to hold our Go Pro nuts in place and I have had a lot of luck with it on the rest of the bike, as we all know blue threadlocker melts ABS plastic so I try not to use any on the bike. This seems to work as well. As of this writing I have 5K miles on the backrest. No problems. So put some on and get ready to bolt on the seat backrest bracket. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0531_zpsa7f9980d.jpg Now all you do is put the backrest in place as directed, and put the bolts in but do not tighten until you get them both started. Crank them down to spec, and your almost done! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0524_zps01f5fbb1.jpg This plastic piece is a option thats nice to have, it slips on the bracket and keeps the bracket from rubbing against the rear seat so much. I would say yes, get it. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0528_zps10465a52.jpg Next you just put the back rest bracket on the support bracket. I always put the nut on the sidestand side of the bike. That way if it comes off, the bolt will stay in until you discover it missing. But, the threadlocker is a good idea here, as well as the included nylon nut. Now all you have to do is follow the directions included to adjust it to your liking, this may take several rides and some moving of nuts and bolts and you'll get it perfect soon and thats where it will stay forever. Just adjust it wearing the gear you ride with as having a jacket on with spinal protection will make a difference. Also you will be getting on and off the bike in a different manner now that you have the backrest installed, so be conscious of this first few times and develop a new mounting method and stick with it! Once you get it where you want it put a dab of the glue on the threads and it will stay put. Also modify your pre ride inspection to now include the backrest components, mostly you will just have to be sure it is secure, tight and the nuts and bolts are all there. On the back is a compartment with a zipper, be sure it is zipped so it does not catch wind. Utopia Vinyl matched my stock seats like it came off the same roll! Perfect! Everyone thinks its factory! (I'm like "No i paid for that!") http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/20130829_181308_zpsa58c2b6c.jpg Congratulations you have just extended your riding time!

That was exactly what I had, Two separate headers, cheapo Sears garage, I just added to what was there, bolted them together gigantic improvement in strength and then I framed out the opening to spec and called a door company who did a steel on both sides insulated door and I went with a Chamberland belt drive quiet as all get out opener. My garage is drive through, in one end, out the other, 4 cars two deem, no one is stuck by another anyone can open a door and either drive or back out. Just buy two header boards to match what you have and a sheet of plywood, level out what you have, lag bolt the new one to the old, then cut the plywood and put first 8' long section in the center and trim out the ends with the rest, using nails, then Lag bolt the other Header to all that using bolts that will go through all of what you have and then Use carriage bolts where you can get them staggered. Put a Horizontal board on the bottom of all that, I used treated, Frame and order door.

Depends on the end the door is on, if it is on the end with the peak, its not all that weight bearing and you can splice it in and bolt them together. If it's on the end with roof directly above it as where there would be a gutter, yes that would be a weight bearing wall and above advice would apply. I did mine same way 20 years ago and it worked out great. I did the siding at the same time so it was pretty easy. I just added two 2 x 12s to the header that was there and bolted them all together and ran lag bolts in too. But if it's on the end with roof directly above it, it's a weight bearing wall and thats a lot more complicated to do and would have to pretty much build a temp support and put a new header in. THEN AGAIN, you have to inspect what you have, it could easily be constructed for either one or two doors and just have two doors with a one door header. The only way this would not have a one door header is if they were really being cheapo and wanted to realize the savings of shorter lumber at the expense of extra time and labor.

I don't have any nuts, I installed rubber grommets , the threads sink down into them and the seat will not come up without some force, it goes right back down and gets tighter as you sit on it. Having a Roadstar as the other bike it just made sense this modification just HAD to be done. As Roadstar seats pop up like a trunk with the turn of the key.

This will make you cringe. Back in the day once a year people tossed out their junk and the county did a curb side pick up. But I beat them to it. I found an old lawnmower axle and wheels and a 7hp side shaft motor that ran. Also scored an old bike steering head with wheel. I bolted all that to a sheet of plywood. Had to be direct drive as I did not find a clutch. I put it up on a brick, started it and shoved it off the brick and when the wheels hit Hang on! I used whoever's bushes to stop it. A while summer of fun. The next year I scored a mini bike frame and did a transfer of things and bought what I thought was a very very expensive clutch. At 9 years old that thing got me thirty miles from home riding along side the railroad tracks. LOL. That's just so crazy now. To think back I thought all bthat was OK. LOL.

My well thought out review was, Hummmm looks like a spaceship STILL, Hello VENTURE!

You did something spectacular like that with a $48.50 fuel pump (Watch the part numbers, click on the pump) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=40171&x=25&y=17 and didn't take pictures and do a HOW TO with a parts list:confused24:? Isn't that a crime? That's a great idea for reliability.

Kinda what I thought when I first read of it, not for the Highway man. Maybe the trailer man. Thanks for the report though. It won't make it on my dream list. Just took a 2000 mile trip through Dragons, Gauntlet, Triangle, and the like, I thought the gearing was perfect, just downshift.

Halogen lights degrade over time and should be replaced. http://www.lawnsite.com/archive/index.php/t-366134.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_light

Oh man. Are we checking spelling now? Between what my note and my note 2 do to my posts I'm about to be banned! Personally it's kinda fun to try to figure out what they meant to say, like a brain exercise.

If you poke around the site they will have shield inverts, goggles, sunglasses and whatever, I'll wait until the price drops to get some, because I'll buy them, then sit on them.

I have worn them in over 100 degree heat for more than 12 hours a day. They have two versions, mesh is very cooling. Cooler than bare skin. Its now CE rated armor. It does fit under normal jeans. But I wear Dragging Jeans over them. They are a priceless piece of mind when wearing rain gear. As far as what they will do in a crash, you would have to read the great testimonials on the Bon Armor site. Hear of people walking away from 70 mph crashes. Its a little tricky sizing. I think your best bet is order right on. They will trade it out no charge for thirty days.