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Mad DREBBIN - new RSV, dead battery


Guest DREBBIN

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Guest DREBBIN

I took the day off to continue my beak in -- wanted to get to 400 today - I did. I stopped 1 mile from my house to fill up -- D E A D battery when I tried to start -- just a very small hum/click. Orange light on left console for CHECK ENGINE etc.

 

Nice enough guy at the station came out with a portable charger -- took 3 tries but we got it and I;m home.

 

Now what -- obviously going to my dealer on Tue when he opens, closed today. Do ya think this just was not chareged correctly at set up?

 

Opinions/suggestions appreciated, DREBBIN

 

UPDATE TUE 30 JAN --

 

I was the only "ride in" to service today and therfore the first in line; actually, I was the line (LOL)

 

VERY POSITIVE experience at the dealer -- there were lots of raised eyebrows when they saw me there.

 

Bottom line -- the lead tech (who has an excellent rep in this area) said the batt cables were not tight enough for his standards. Then he did a load test.

 

With engine running (sitiing still), brights on AND passing lamps on it was at 13.25.

 

I bough a battery charger and we installed the harness for it too. Due to the fine advice herein we also ordered the Kury voltmeter.

 

He also said these engines do not need to get at a certain RPM to charge the system. He did say that the more speed you do the more the magnets fire the better the charging, etc.

 

So, as of 1200 my time, it is hooked up in my garage with a red charging light -- let's see how long it takes to get to solid green.

 

Great site, good people, I look forward to buying ya'll BBQ!!! DREBBIN

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I took the day off to continue my beak in -- wanted to get to 400 today - I did. I stopped 1 mile from my house to fill up -- D E A D battery when I tried to start -- just a very small hum/click. Orange light on left console for CHECK ENGINE etc.

 

Nice enough guy at the station came out with a portable charger -- took 3 tries but we got it and I;m home.

 

Now what -- obviously going to my dealer on Tue when he opens, closed today. Do ya think this just was not chareged correctly at set up?

 

Opinions/suggestions appreciated, DREBBIN

I dont think that is the case. If you rode at least 230 mi between the two days then you have ride charge time. I would look for the small stuff. Were any accessories left on or the ignition switch? Were any accessories added that may have been wired wrong? Sorry to ask stupid questions but who knows. Other than that it may be something with the ignition switch. Earlier models did have some trouble with them but the later ones were fine. Maybe that you got the switch made at Friday 4:30

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I noticed you did a post on heated clothing. Are you running heated clothing and passing lamps at the same time? These bikes are great machines but are known for having a limited charging capacity. I have a gerbings vest and 3 headlights at 55 watts each. If I run my heated vest all the way up and the headlights on bright I start draining the battery. I use a Kurakyn led volt meter to show whether I charging or discharging while riding and using all my electrical goodies.

 

 

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Guest DREBBIN

Today was about 24 degrees when I left for a 160 mile loop -- yes, I ran the Gerbing jacket and the gloves BUT NOT turned up all the way.

 

I have the PIAA bulb in the main headlamp and just the regular (birthday cake candle) bulbs in the Yamaha passing lamps.

 

This is actually a NIGHTMARE returning -- I had the excavt same issue on my Road Glide with a 32 amp system.

 

Tell me, please tell me, that this is at least a 32 amp system! I'm hoping against hope that the dealer just did not charge this completely last Thu. Damn. Damn. Damn. DREBBIN

 

I noticed you did a post on heated clothing. Are you running heated clothing and passing lamps at the same time? These bikes are great machines but are known for having a limited charging capacity. I have a gerbings vest and 3 headlights at 55 watts each. If I run my heated vest all the way up and the headlights on bright I start draining the battery. I use a Kurakyn led volt meter to show whether I charging or discharging while riding and using all my electrical goodies.

 

 

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Today was about 24 degrees when I left for a 160 mile loop -- yes, I ran the Gerbing jacket and the gloves BUT NOT turned up all the way.

 

I have the PIAA bulb in the main headlamp and just the regular (birthday cake candle) bulbs in the Yamaha passing lamps.

 

This is actually a NIGHTMARE returning -- I had the excavt same issue on my Road Glide with a 32 amp system.

 

Tell me, please tell me, that this is at least a 32 amp system! I'm hoping against hope that the dealer just did not charge this completely last Thu. Damn. Damn. Damn. DREBBIN

honestly Buddy may be on the right track. If you look at the threads you will see a few mentions of Volt meters as nessessary and charging capacity leaves a little bit to be desired but the big brains are on it. We actually have a few guys working with companies to make a bigger stator to boost it up. Takes pretty extreme situations to run it down like that. I do recommend a volt meter though.

 

BTW- Freebird have you heard anything more about the upgrade stator?

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I believe its between 35 an 40 amp system. The PIAA bulb is not going to make any difference. Its not really a nightmare but you do need something to monitor it. If its really cold then shut down the passing lamps, switch to bright on the main headlamp and you should be fine. But I would check that there is not something going on with the battery.

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At 24* the carb heaters are probably running steady too. I think I read that they draw about the same as an electric jacket, 65 or 70 watts. Make sure your terminals are all tight, including the ones on the solenoid and the ground cable. If your running your electric cloths wide open then I would shut the driving lights off.

After the battery is charged do a load test on it to check it out. Harbour freight has a load tester for about $25. It's a very handy tool to have around and will quickly eliminate the battery as a problem.

As others have said, use a volt meter to check your charging system. You should be getting around 13.6 - 14 volts to the battery at a fairly high RPM and always at least 12+ volts on the idle with no extra loads on the system.

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You might get lucky and find that the ground cable is loose as was mine was. Shortly after getting the bike it was dead- nothing. After checking things over I found that the ground cable was loose. Tightened it back up and since then no problems.

Or Buddy's info may be right. You'll just have to check things over first.

Larry

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Guest DREBBIN

Thank you to all -- I've made notes on all your pointers and will be taking them with me to the dealer on Tue -- will advise. What a great forum, good people, BBQ on me -- DREBBIN

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Guest DREBBIN

My record is 16 degrees for 45 miles -- last year I did 100 at 28. Today I did 160 with only 29 at the warmest. Why ? I don't get to do anything hazardous or challenging anymore at my job -- I'm a hqs weenie now -- so every so often I try to do something that requires thought, planning and stamina --- or just plain stupidity !!! (LOL) DREBBIN

 

Did you say you were riding when it was 24 degrees outside? Fahrenheit?!!?!?!
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I've heard nothing since the email asking for my telephone number so that he could call me. He never called. I sent another email last week and have heard nothing further. Maybe I'll try to call him tomorrow.

Just as long as they know if you build we will come. I think about half of us would order it on the first day. It cant be that tough as they already make stators for Vstars that put out about 35% more power. All we need is just a little more would be nice!!!

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Check both ends of grd cable, check cable from + battery stud to the Start Solinoid, check studs from Solinoid down the nut on the Starter.

 

--- If all tight, then with Enging running check for a minimum of 12.7 volt on + terminal of battery, but it should be around 13.5 V DC charging voltage with enging running.

 

---- If this all checks out ok, then Charge the Battery with your charger, Disconnect it from the bike, and let it Sit for day or two, If it drops to below 12V just sitting for 24 hours, then the battery is No Good, even if it is New, and it should be under Warrenty.

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Guest DREBBIN

Will do -- have added this excellent points to my to do list today ! THNX , DREBBIN

 

Check both ends of grd cable, check cable from + battery stud to the Start Solinoid, check studs from Solinoid down the nut on the Starter.

 

--- If all tight, then with Enging running check for a minimum of 12.7 volt on + terminal of battery, but it should be around 13.5 V DC charging voltage with enging running.

 

---- If this all checks out ok, then Charge the Battery with your charger, Disconnect it from the bike, and let it Sit for day or two, If it drops to below 12V just sitting for 24 hours, then the battery is No Good, even if it is New, and it should be under Warrenty.

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Guest DREBBIN

UPDATE TUE 30 JAN --

 

I was the only "ride in" to service today and therfore the first in line; actually, I was the line (LOL)

 

VERY POSITIVE experience at the dealer -- there were lots of raised eyebrows when they saw me there.

 

Bottom line -- the lead tech (who has an excellent rep in this area) said the batt cables were not tight enough for his standards. Then he did a load test.

 

With engine running (sitiing still), brights on AND passing lamps on it was at 13.25.

 

I bough a battery charger and we installed the harness for it too. Due to the fine advice herein we also ordered the Kury voltmeter.

 

He also said these engines do not need to get at a certain RPM to charge the system. He did say that the more speed you do the more the magnets fire the better the charging, etc.

 

So, as of 1200 my time, it is hooked up in my garage with a red charging light -- let's see how long it takes to get to solid green.

 

Great site, good people, I look forward to buying ya'll BBQ!!! DREBBIN

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UPDATE TUE 30 JAN --

 

...

He also said these engines do not need to get at a certain RPM to charge the system. He did say that the more speed you do the more the magnets fire the better the charging, etc.

 

...

 

Seems to be godd News, Drebbin, hope your Bike will get fine with the Charger.

 

 

What the Tech said ..... umppppphhhf .... is bu....it.

 

The higher the RPM on the Engine, the higher the Current the Stator will produce.

 

That's because the Rotor, with the Magnets in it which cause the Stator to do his generating Job, sits on the Crankshaft of the Engine, not on your rear Wheel ...

 

 

FYI

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Jim,

 

Once you get a full charge on your battery give it a test by leaving the charger off and checking to see it it will start after sitting for a period of time. My bike is in a fairly warm garage (45*) and will start without being charged even after sitting for a month or more.

 

Here's the battery load tester I mentioned before. It's on sale too.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93784

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