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Barnett clutch ?


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This has probably been talked to death, but I'm a slow learner. I am getting ready to get my 04 Midnight RSV back together after my wreck in Nov. I want to make sure she is ready to go for the next 4 to 5 years so I am wondering about changing out the clutch. I only have 49K miles on it, but I am experiencing some slippage when I shift hard into second and third gears:whistling:. I'm a pretty agressive rider at times and hate to hear the clutch slipping. I grew up wrenching so I know it wont heal itself and will only get worse.

 

I know several of you have changed out to the Barnett clutch and pressure plate. I am just wanting to hear your thoughts about the performance of the Barnett parts.

 

The Warden travels with me a lot so we pull a trailer to haul her make-up and purse :stirthepot:. I'm sure this puts a serious strain on the stock (and weak) diaphram pressure plate. Also, at some point we are thinking of gettin a camper.

 

I would welcome any negative comments as well as the positive ones.

 

Thanks to everyone.

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Stew,

Barnett is a great clutch, but an expensive changeover on the G2. PCW racing out of Schenctady NY has a kit that will eliminate the slippage problem for less than $100

http://www.pcwracing.net/

They sell a kit that adds 1 full friction plate and a heavier diaphram spring. It takes about 45 minutes to install and works fantastic. I know others will chime in, but I have personally done 3 of these kits on the G2's and you can get any better :happy34:

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I went with the Barnett set up last year after my clutch started slipping on my 04. The previous owner used to ride a lot of 2 up with a trailer in tow also. The Barnett cost a little more than the PCW racing set up, but it has also been around a lot longer and proven itself to be better than the stock over the years.

 

Shortly after changing over to the Barnett clutch I had the VMax final gear swapped out at Blue Ridge Mountain Sports. They are right around the corner from where our daughter lives so we made a trip to PA. to visit her and let the experts swap it out (only took them a few hours).

 

Bike is ready to do war now. The clutch is heavy duty...and the VMax gears were by far the best improvement of all. After the gear swap out it was like riding a new bike...the way the Venture should have been geared right from the get go. No more waiting to get to 70 before making that final shift...more pulling power in all gears...more pleasant ride...and best improvement if you ride two up or pull a trailer.

 

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

later...

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Stew,

 

Barnett is a great clutch, but an expensive changeover on the G2. PCW racing out of Schenctady NY has a kit that will eliminate the slippage problem for less than $100

 

 

 

They sell a kit that adds 1 full friction plate and a heavier diaphram spring. It takes about 45 minutes to install and works fantastic. I know others will chime in, but I have personally done 3 of these kits on the G2's and you can get any better

:happy34:

 

Chaos Helped me do mine. (Ask him why mine took 3 hours??:confused24:) The folks at PCW were great to deal with, gave me their phone number in case I had any questions as I did it. Boy does it really fix that slipping. Feels like it really hooks up now.

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I put the Barnett in mine about 4 weeks ago, and so far no issues at all.

I bought mine from Buckeye Performance. His kit comes with the fiber plates, wire and gasket.

 

1. Removing the old gasket is the biggest pain in the ### .

2. Take a few minutes before removing the plates.

There are two dimples or notches on the plates and they line up with the two marks on the clutch basket. These have to go back in the same way.

3. If you get the new fiber plates, soak them in oil first.

4. The metal plates rough them a little with some very fine emery cloth.

5. The wire is a little tricky going back in but it seats in a groove. If not seated properly, you will not have enough wire to slide into the hole.

6. The Barnett pressure plate does not have any markings on it to line up with clutch basket indicator (you see this with the old OEM part). You have to rotate the plate until you can work the clutch were the plates move in and out. Since this was not in any of the write ups, this was the most frustrating part for me.

7. Do not overtighten the bolts on the pressure plate.

 

:)

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I put the Barnett in mine about 4 weeks ago, and so far no issues at all.

I bought mine from Buckeye Performance. His kit comes with the fiber plates, wire and gasket.

 

7. Do not overtighten the bolts on the pressure plate.

 

:)

 

I know it looks tempting to re-use the old bolts but believe me.....replace those old bolts with new ones!! The old ones WILL snap when you least expect it. I was lucky...I was able to EZ out the broken piece. If you cant then its time for a new basket. I personally replaced the bolts with hardened allen head bolts. It made installation easier as I was able to start the bolt with a speed wrench, leaning into the wrench with my chest to take the pressure off the springs. Worked great.

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I know it looks tempting to re-use the old bolts but believe me.....replace those old bolts with new ones!! The old ones WILL snap when you least expect it. I was lucky...I was able to EZ out the broken piece. If you cant then its time for a new basket. I personally replaced the bolts with hardened allen head bolts. It made installation easier as I was able to start the bolt with a speed wrench, leaning into the wrench with my chest to take the pressure off the springs. Worked great.

 

New bolts come with the Barnett package. :)

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  • 3 years later...

Hello to everyone......I'm new here so I'm probably doing this wrong...I wanted to start a new thread...anyway here goes. I've got an '88 Venture Royale that has a slippy clutch that is mostly noticeable in high gear when passing. My local bike shop is going to do the clutch for me as I don't have the proper tools, and he would like to know if the old style clutch ( with the little springs and pressure plate ) will install in the '88. The diaphragm style seems to wear out early. He just pulled apart an 83' parts bike and wondered if that style clutch could be installed in mine. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

- Bill wildbill470@gmail.com

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To change the clutch all you need is a basic socket set and a phillips screwdriver and perhaps some allen keys...depending on how your side cases are held on.

The price the stealer is going to charge you would provide you with a garage full of tools.

 

I'm pretty sure the clutches are interchangable....but I would recommend you just buy the upgrade from Skydoc who is a member here and has an ad in the classifieds for clutch upgrades.

 

I changed my clutch this summer and was amazed at how simple a job it really is.

There is lots of help here so don't be shy. Any questions just ask!

 

 

Welcome to the forum...pay for the full membership...it's the best $12 investment you could possibly make.

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I have installed both PCW and Barnett clutches for mayself and friends. I personally prefer the PCW but it is whatever floats your boat. They are both great upgrades. You will not need new plates or friction plates. I have never seen either of these out of spec. If you get the PCW, it eliminates the half clutch at the rear of the basket and you don't have to worry about that @$#% spring in the back.

 

:farmer:

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My clutch went out in Branson,Mi the Last week in Sept,2011.Goose7 told me I could fix it myself.I ordered a cluch kit from PCW(ph#518-346-7203)the cost was $150.It took me 1hr to put in.You don,t have to drain the oil.Dealer wanted 3hr at $85 plus parts.

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I did the skydoc kit on my 89 last year and it solved my slipping problem (2 up with trailer).

 

If you put in a MKI clutch you'll need to remove the clutch hub and basket. Skydoc's kit is as simple as replacing the clutch frictions and can be done quickly.

 

As pointed out the most difficult part of the job is scraping the old gasket off. At $80 it's inexpensive too. Even if you have the shop do it it should cost much less than putting in a MKI clutch.

 

Not sure why he specifies diagonal cutters in the instructions. I simply removed the retaining spring fro the half friction rather than cutting. The spring bolts are soft, but unless they've been over-torqued they should outlast the motorcycle. It's best they be tightened with a torque wrench (8 N*M, 5.8 ft-lb).

 

Finally spend the $12 on membership. You've already saved 10 years worth of dues.:)

 

THIS is the link to his kit.

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I did the skydoc kit on my 89 last year and it solved my slipping problem (2 up with trailer).

 

If you put in a MKI clutch you'll need to remove the clutch hub and basket. Skydoc's kit is as simple as replacing the clutch frictions and can be done quickly.

 

As pointed out the most difficult part of the job is scraping the old gasket off. At $80 it's inexpensive too. Even if you have the shop do it it should cost much less than putting in a MKI clutch.

 

Not sure why he specifies diagonal cutters in the instructions. I simply removed the retaining spring fro the half friction rather than cutting. The spring bolts are soft, but unless they've been over-torqued they should outlast the motorcycle. It's best they be tightened with a torque wrench (8 N*M, 5.8 ft-lb).= 70 in-lb

 

Finally spend the $12 on membership. You've already saved 10 years worth of dues.:)

 

THIS is the link to his kit.

 

H/F has a 1/4" drive in-lb torque wrench for I think less than $20.00....

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