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Any ideas how to remove a stripped Allen bolt?


Color01

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Any ideas how to remove a stripped Allen bolt?

My plan was to remove the saddlebags so I could install the Saddlebag rails that I purchased. The Allen bolts where so tight.. That I stripped one of them…what would be the best way to remove that stripped Allen bolt?

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Not totally clear on what your question is??? Did you strip the threads on the bolt or did you strip the welded nut? If you stripped the bolt in the removal process you should have it removed. If that is the case then run a tap through the welded nut to clean up the threads and replace the bolt with a new one. If you stripped the welded nut then you have a couple of options.

Drill out and tap for next larger size or drill out and put a thread insert into the existing nut which would allow for use of the stock size bolt.

:scratchchin:

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If what you did was to round out the hex head, one method is to use a hacksaw or Dremel tool to cut a slot across the head and then use a screwdriver to turn the bolt. (By screwdriver I mean anything that will fit in slot and turn the bolt)

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I did the same thing to 2 of my bolts holding the bags on, they were very tight, what I did was drill a hole in the bolt so I could use a e-z out.(looks like a drill bit but when it tightens up, the taper actually turns out the remains of the bolt) it took a couple attempts to find the correct bit and e-z out combination...... I then used a stainless bolt instead of the soft ones that were in there to begin with, I got them a local hardware store...... not a problem now......Good luck

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You can use a die grinder or dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the head off, then remove what's left of the bolt with a ViseGrip once the bag is out of the way. If you're careful you can re-use the washer. I ordered several of both size bolts and a couple of washers. I figure I tinker with this thing enough I'll need 'em sooner or later.

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I've had 2-3 do the same thing and was able to use a needle nose Vice-grips to grip the heads and break them loose. Come to think of it, I use those pliers as much or more than my regular pliers.

 

Yah me too. Come in so handy for almost everything. The long handle ones come in very handy as well.

 

You can use a die grinder or dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the head off, then remove what's left of the bolt with a ViseGrip once the bag is out of the way. If you're careful you can re-use the washer. I ordered several of both size bolts and a couple of washers. I figure I tinker with this thing enough I'll need 'em sooner or later.

 

That's what I would do as well.

 

Brad

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Yah me too. Come in so handy for almost everything. The long handle ones come in very handy as well.

 

 

 

That's what I would do as well.

 

Brad

PB blaster applied around the bolt and it will seep into the area and loosen said bolt-----ALSO a bit of tappin will help---------PS READ the can when ya purchase it --------any automotive store--------Wally world: H-depot or Lowes------:thumbsup2:

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This is what worked for me

 

 

Drill out the head

The bag will come off then remove the bolt with a vise grip

Then go to the hardware store and get replacements for all of the bolts

 

I always put a little grease on the threads b4 putting the bolts back in

 

After going through this a couple of time I replaced all the bolts

 

Sears hardware had a good selection of bolts

 

Good Luck

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Whenever drilling a damaged fastener, always use a left hand drill bit.

Some times the bit will catch and spin the remains of the fastener out.

I have seen a right hand drill bit catch just as you are getting through the head and run the remains of the screw farther into the hole, making it even more difficult to get out.

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Thanks for your advice

I cut the head with the dremel.. And for temporary I used a Hex bolt..Because no one here in town had a matching 55 mm metric bolt. :think:

 

I don't know if I will replace will them with the hex bolt, or replace them for the quick release bolt.

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Also, be VERY careful with the allen bolts on the clutch slave unit... they are WAY recessed and the previous owner rounded out one of them... There was only one solution... an extractor that grabbed the outside of the head...

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?keyword=damaged+bolt+remover

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/9990000031818111?

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I had a saddle bag bolt (thank goodness it was one of the top ones) strip out. Vice grips would not grip it, so I tried a very small pipe wrench. It has not been used much and the teeth are still sharp. Pushing it hard sideways on the bolt head, it dug in and turned it.

All the saddlebag bolts now are flanged hex-head bolts.

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I've also used a torx head bit that I tap in with a hammer to remove them. If you can use it in an impact driver, it would help to.

 

Oh, and be sure to use only a good quality set of allen wrenches. Cheap ones just round off quickly and cause the problem you mention. Also, if you do round off an allen wrench after a lot lot use, you can use a grinder or cut-off wheel to cut off the rounded off part making it like new again. Just be careful not to get it to hot so it loses it's temper.

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Don't know which bolt you need, go to Sunrise Cycle on Little Creek Rd, Norfolk, VA.

 

I put a set of saddlebag rails on this week and needed the bolt that connects the rail at the back to the fender. I called Sunrise and gave them the number of the bolt 92014-08020. You can look on the Sunrise web site at the parts fishe and get the number of the bolt you want. If you require more info, call me at 404-3333. If they want to prepay since you've not ordered before (I guess), I can stop by there on the way from work and pay for it, or they may let me order by phone. It only takes a couple days to get the parts I've ordered thus far.

 

MIKE aka Uturn

 

:Venture:

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  • 3 weeks later...

When using an allen wrench on any bolt that feels tight and may round off I put a little coarse valve grinding compound on the end of the allen wrench. The carbide in the compound will take up some of the clearance between wrench and head and when force is applied the carbide will bite into both the wrench and the head preventing slippage.

 

I did this years ago removing the clutch slave and using a socket type allen wrench and broke the socket but the wrench never slipped or rounded the head.

 

Dick

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In my job I run into this quite often and one simple trick that works 9out 0f 10 times is to take a torx bit slightly larger than the allen hole in the bolt. touch up the end of it with a grinder to create sharpe edges then tap it into the end of the bolt. it will cut new groves as it goes down and then just turn the bolt out.

I also use this trick for broke bolts drill a hole in the center and drive in a torx bit . better than any easy out I have ever owned. Works best if you can file or grind the bottom flat but if not it still works well without grinding it.

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Here is another tirck that works sometimes if you have a bench grinder. Take the allen wrench to a bench grinder and hold the end of the wrench 90 degrees on end to the wheel and press the wrench pretty hard against the wheel as if you were trying to shorten the wrench. Apply a little more pressure than you would normally use. You will see some of the metal from the wrench start to roll out and build up on the under side of the wrench. then use a hammer to drive the wrench into the bolt and the metal that the bench grinder caused to roll up under the wrench will act like a shim taking up some of the excess room in the head of the allen bolt. It doesn't work every time but it does work sometimes.

Edited by raceman62race
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  • 4 weeks later...

As usual I'm too late but somebody might get help out of this.

tig weld the hole of a flat washer to the bolt head then weld a nut to the bolt, I have even done this when a head is broken off of the bolt. The heating & cooling also loosens the bolt.

 

TC:080402gudl_prv:

 

I have done it with stick rod also

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