Rear Brake questions

[nkbjones]

So I find myself having a few rear brake problems. I went to breakingparts and got both of my tires changed last week and found that the rear pads were gone, the inside was metal to metal. Earlier that day I had started to notice some feedback when applying the rear brake. I never thought the rear pads would be gone already because they only had 6000 miles on them.

 

When we pulled the rear wheel, we found that the rotor was grooved. When I got home, I put on an old set of pads that should have several thousand miles left in them until I could get to the stealer and get a new set. I got the new set and put them on Monday and the brakes acted fine since then, so I thought. Yesterday I was riding on the interstate (75-80 mph) and noticed that 'burning brakes smell' and wondered if it was me. When I stopped I did not detect the smell near the rear wheel, but did find that that the rotor was hot.

 

I called cyclebrakes.com today and have ordered a new rotor and new pads. When I talked to them, they seemed to think that my caliper may need to be rebuilt. They said that if the caliper needed to be rebuilt, that I would pretty quickly ruin the new rotor and pads. They also said that there was not a rebuild kit yet for a 2nd gen which I guess means just getting a whole new one from mama yama.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions on potential problems that could be causing this and the rebuilding of the caliper idea would be appreciated.

 

OHHHHH, and BTW we greased the splines while we had the wheel off and they were DRY. The last place I got a rear tire changed didn't grease the splines, but for some reason found it necessary to change the rear gear oil.

Edited May 20, 2009 by nkbjones
can't type worth a darn

[Sunman]

So I find myself having a few rear brake problems. I went to breakingparts and got both of my tires changed last week and found that the rear pads were gone, the inside was metal to metal. Earlier that day I had started to notice some feedback when applying the rear brake. I never thought the rear pads would be gone already because they only had 6000 miles on them.

 

When we pulled the rear wheel, we found that the rotor was grooved. When I got home, I put on an old set of pads that should have several thousand miles left in them until I could get to the stealer and get a new set. I got the new set and put them on Monday and the brakes acted fine since then, so I thought. Yesterday I was riding on the interstate (75-80 mph) and noticed that 'burning brakes smell' and wondered if it was me. When I stopped I did not detect to smell near the rear wheel, but did find that that the rotor was hot.

 

I called cyclebrakes.com today and have ordered a new rotor and new pads. When I talked to them, they seemed to think that my caliper may need to be rebuilt. They said that if the caliper needed to be rebuilt, that I would pretty quickly ruin the new rotor and pads. They also said that there was not a rebuild kit yet for a 2nd gen which I guess means just getting a whole new one from mama yama.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions on potential problems that could be causing this and the rebuilding of the caliper idea would be appreciated.

 

OHHHHH, and BTW we greased the slpines while we had the wheel off and they were DRY. The last place I got a rear tire changed didn't grease the splines, but for some reason found it necessary to change the rear gear oil.

 

Just a thought, but if you were riding at 75 MPH, there is really no way you could have smelled anything coming from BEHIND you. Anything you smelled, you rode INTO, from the front.

[Eck]

It does sound as though your caliper is stuck or at minimum, has been sticking.

If you are mechanically inclined, remove the caliper and first "clean up" the sides of the piston and use lots of WD-40 to remove any rust and or crud.

The using a small "C" clamp, see if it is easy to push th episton back into the caliper. If you have to use "force" on the "c" clamp, then the piston is stuck (or sticking)..

The piston must be able to move in and out.

If you can get the piston to where you can push it back into the cvaliper with only your fingers, then I would say it is pretty much freed up..but then assemble everything and then go for a little ride, then get off and see if the rotor is hot or if you have that smell again of burnt brake pads...

 

 

[1BigDog]

If that caliper is freezing up, and it sounds like it is, then I would think it would be a warranty repair. No way should a 2 year old caliper freeze on you. Pad wear is the only thing not covered. Premature pad wear is an indication of a mechanical failure. Average life for a rear set of pads is about 12-14k.

 

Below is the needed parts for a rebuild.....

 

http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/black.gifhttp://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partszoomin.gif http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partszoomout.gif http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partszoomreset.gif http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/black.gifTagDescriptionReqPrice 1SKU: 4NK-2582W-00-00

DISC, REAR BRAKE 21$184.58http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif2http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/icoPartSuper.gif Loading...

SKU: 90109-083G4-00

BOLT6$0.91http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif3SKU: 4XY-25819-00-00

BRACKET, CALIPER (backordered)1$67.07http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif4SKU: 95024-10030-00

BOLT, FLANGE1$1.93http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif5http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/icoPartSuper.gif Loading...

SKU: 90201-10437-00

WASHER, PLATE1$0.80http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif6SKU: 4NK-2580W-00-00

CALIPER ASSY, REAR 21$306.12http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif7SKU: 1KT-W0057-00-00

PISTON ASSY, CALIPER1$101.78http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif8SKU: 1KT-W0047-00-00

CALIPER SEAL KIT1$27.67http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif9SKU: 4NK-W0057-00-00

PISTON ASSY, CALIPER1$77.56http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif10SKU: 4NK-W0047-00-00

CALIPER SEAL KIT1$25.46http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif11SKU: 4NK-W0046-00-00

BRAKE PAD KIT 21$25.16http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif12SKU: 1J3-W0048-00-00

BLEED SCREW KIT1$9.54http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif13SKU: 1NL-25836-00-00

COVER, DUST1$13.28http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif14SKU: 3HE-25924-00-00

PIN, PAD2$5.55http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif15SKU: 3GM-25925-00-00

CLIP2$3.56http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif16SKU: 1NL-25919-00-00

SUPPORT, PAD1$6.87http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif17SKU: 90105-10638-00

BOLT, FLANGE2$1.34http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif

 

here it is

 

http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/blank.gifhttp://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/blank.gifhttp://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/blank.gifhttp://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/blank.gifhttp://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/common/images/blank.gifMotorsports Super Center

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Hamilton AL 35570

Phone: 205-921-7777

Email: sales@motorsportssupercenter.com

 

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Edited May 20, 2009 by Ruffy

[nkbjones]

When I have replaced the pads, it has been difficult to get the pistons back in. Most of the problem has been getting ALL of them in without that push/pull effect. Each individual piston has been a little stiff, but not to hard to push back in.

 

Do I just spray the WD-40 around the pistons and work in? Would bleeding the brake lines have any effect?

 

BTW, I thought about the warranty thing but not sure if it is worth messing with the dealer if I can do it for less than a couple of hundred bucks.

[Sleeperhawk]

When I have replaced the pads, it has been difficult to get the pistons back in. Most of the problem has been getting ALL of them in without that push/pull effect. Each individual piston has been a little stiff, but not to hard to push back in.

 

Do I just spray the WD-40 around the pistons and work in? Would bleeding the brake lines have any effect?

 

BTW, I thought about the warranty thing but not sure if it is worth messing with the dealer if I can do it for less than a couple of hundred bucks.

 

This is a warranty issue, let your dealer handle this.

[Joopster55]

I replaced my tires last week and while I had the wheels off I went ahead and lubed the splines. There was very little greas on them. I also replaced my brake pads. I took my rear caliper off completely. I cleaned up the caliper with brake cleaner several times and wiped it clean. I then used some emery cloth and gently cleaned the exposed pistons of the caliper. I was able to push them back in using only my fingers. Then I used a little of brake anti-seize lubricant around the outside edge of the pistons as well as the back plate of the brake pad where they make contact with the pistons. Put everything back together, bled the brakes several times and now they work better than ever.

Did the same to the front brakes, but did not change the pads, lots of miles in them still.

No more front brake squeel.

[Eck]

I just now realized that you have a 2007 RSV...

As already mentioned and strongly advised abve, I would take this to the dealer and let them fix it..

[Cougar]

Send me your mailing addy and I will send one to you.

 

Jeff

[nkbjones]

I just now realized that you have a 2007 RSV...

 

As already mentioned and strongly advised abve, I would take this to the dealer and let them fix it..

 

 

Do you think they will give me a hard time about my trailer hitch? or should I just take it off to avoid the potential hassle? I'll give them a call tomorrow, but I am afraid that with the way they are I'll be without my bike for several weeks.

[flb_78]

The factory Yamaha ones only last me about 6-8000 miles. The standard EBC lasted 14000 miles. This time I installed the EBC HH pads.

 

If you just came off the interstate, then yeah, your rotor's going to be hot and the pads are going to smell. I don't think there's anything wrong. I think you probably just use your rear brake a lot. I personally wouldn't be worried about a grooved rotor. A warped rotor would warrant replacement, but not grooved.

[Eck]

 

Do you think they will give me a hard time about my trailer hitch? or should I just take it off to avoid the potential hassle? I'll give them a call tomorrow, but I am afraid that with the way they are I'll be without my bike for several weeks

 

 

Well, this is MY opinion only and others may disagree, but I personally would remove it to ensure I do not get into any hassel's, and then take it in..but that is me.. and it sounds like your heart is telling you to do the same thing..

[nkbjones]

So at you'lls advice, I am going to take the bike into the dealer tomorrow and try to have them cover this problem under warranty. I have taken off the trailer hitch, I figure it only takes a few minutes and takes that issue out of the mix. Hopefully they won't have the bike too long, but I figure at least a week if the cover the repairs.

 

I will also say that cyclebrakes has been great to work with so far. I called them today and placed my order for a new rotor on hold until I can figure out if the dealer will cover it.

[nkbjones]

Well, I got my bike back today from the dealer and they said the rear caliper was working fine. Since there is not a problem with that, they will not cover the rotor under warranty. I have ordered the new rotor through cyclebrakes and will go see breaking parts to help me put it on once it gets in. The dealer wanted about $400 for a new rotor, pads, and labor.............less than $200 if I do it.

[Semi-retired]

Well, I got my bike back today from the dealer and they said the rear caliper was working fine. Since there is not a problem with that, they will not cover the rotor under warranty. I have ordered the new rotor through cyclebrakes and will go see breaking parts to help me put it on once it gets in. The dealer wanted about $400 for a new rotor, pads, and labor.............less than $200 if I do it.

 

Hey, Nathan, glad to hear you got your bike back....and you haven't spent a fortune on it.......yet!

 

Call me crazy......but, I'm an old timer, sort of, who graduated from Auto Mechanics with honors.....back when Jesus was a baby.

And back then (when dinosaurs ruled the earth) we used to HONE rotors, just like we did DRUMS, before rotors even existed. Is no one doing this anymore? Seems like that would be the ultimate solution with the best combination of safety AND economy: you'd have a nice new smooth surface on your rotor AND you wouldn't have to shell out big bucks for a new one. Just pop in the refinished rotor.....a new pair of pads........and, Bob's your uncle.

 

No? Anyone?

[KiteSquid]

I would recommend replacement of rotors and drums over machining them.

 

 

When you remove mass, you increase the chance that the part will warp therefore you will have to go through the labor more often.

 

 

BTW, how did you know I have an uncle named Bob?????

[GeorgeS]

6k, and rear pads worn out ???

 

Did you ever use your front brakes dureing those 6 thousand miles ??

[Semi-retired]

I would recommend replacement of rotors and drums over machining them.

 

 

When you remove mass, you increase the chance that the part will warp therefore you will have to go through the labor more often.

 

 

BTW, how did you know I have an uncle named Bob?????

 

Agreed on the thin rotors = potential for warpage.....BUT, we're talking a few thou here, based on the scenario of the pads having just recently run out of brake material.

 

From a cost effectiveness standpoint, (and I haven't made a call to a local machine shop to be sure, but) I'm guessing you can lathe a couple of thousandths off an otherwise perfect old rotor for a heck of a lot lower cost than the price of a new one.......new one's being in the $100-$200 range, depending on model/year/source.

 

All vehicle manufacturers have a "minimum thickness" or "remove no more than" specification for brake drums and rotors. Yamaha would have this spec readily available for the asking, and I don't think anyone should shy away from saving a few bucks, providing they are following the 'factory's guidelines'.

 

Mike

[nkbjones]

Hey, Nathan, glad to hear you got your bike back....and you haven't spent a fortune on it.......yet!

 

Call me crazy......but, I'm an old timer, sort of, who graduated from Auto Mechanics with honors.....back when Jesus was a baby.

And back then (when dinosaurs ruled the earth) we used to HONE rotors, just like we did DRUMS, before rotors even existed. Is no one doing this anymore? Seems like that would be the ultimate solution with the best combination of safety AND economy: you'd have a nice new smooth surface on your rotor AND you wouldn't have to shell out big bucks for a new one. Just pop in the refinished rotor.....a new pair of pads........and, Bob's your uncle.

 

No? Anyone?

 

This project is already at my mechanical limits, I am not sure I am ready to tackle resurfacing rotors yet. Plus, I have to ride an hour to met breaking parts to have him help me with this project.

 

6k, and rear pads worn out ???

 

Did you ever use your front brakes dureing those 6 thousand miles ??

 

I do use my rear brake heavily, but they still should last at least 12k miles. For some reason my rotor is grooved and eating pads more wuickly now. Not sure exactly what happened, last pad change I did with 13k miles and had at least 2k miles left on the pads. Dealer says the caliper is good, but I guess I'll see once we get the new rotor on.