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High Output Stator from Buckeye Performance


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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a question I didn't see answered in this discussion. About how many amps does it normally take to run the engine and the head/running lights? In other words, if the stator is good for 30 amps at a reasonable cruising rpm, how much is left for accessories? I have a 91 Royale. The accessory fuse in my stock fuse box is 10 amps.

 

I have added Hot Grips (3 amp fuse) and two 50 watt driving lights (15 amp fuse, but maybe about 6-8 amps draw), so I'm really close to 10 amps total accesory load).

 

I'm getting ready to order a pair of nice Hella 55w driving lamps to replace my 50w Walmart lights. BTW, I can't find good quality 35w driving/fog lights at a reasonable price (like under $100 or so).

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Not sure what the motor and headlight take, but my Moto lights take 8.5 and the passing lamps take about 10 and then you have another 5 for the carb heaters, All I know is that I drained the battery on a early November ride up in Door county Wisconsin ( thats the Thumb if you look at the map)...

 

Thats the reason I'm putting in the better stator.. I just hope it works like they say it will

 

 

 

 

Here's a question I didn't see answered in this discussion. About how many amps does it normally take to run the engine and the head/running lights? In other words, if the stator is good for 30 amps at a reasonable cruising rpm, how much is left for accessories? I have a 91 Royale. The accessory fuse in my stock fuse box is 10 amps.

 

I have added Hot Grips (3 amp fuse) and two 50 watt driving lights (15 amp fuse, but maybe about 6-8 amps draw), so I'm really close to 10 amps total accesory load).

 

I'm getting ready to order a pair of nice Hella 55w driving lamps to replace my 50w Walmart lights. BTW, I can't find good quality 35w driving/fog lights at a reasonable price (like under $100 or so).

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  • 2 months later...
Guest studiojma

Just ordered the stator from Buckeye. On his site it mentioned the stator came with installation gaskets. Are there any other gaskets I need to order? One of the threads I read mentioned needing gaskets for the flyweheel and middle gear cover and I couldn't tell if this is what was included with the stator. If something else is needed, part numbers or a link to the product would be most appreciated. :)

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Just ordered the stator from Buckeye. On his site it mentioned the stator came with installation gaskets. Are there any other gaskets I need to order? One of the threads I read mentioned needing gaskets for the flyweheel and middle gear cover and I couldn't tell if this is what was included with the stator. If something else is needed, part numbers or a link to the product would be most appreciated. :)

 

If you ordered the stator from ricks you will get the 2 gaskets

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If there are two Gaskets, one for the Stator on the second for the Middle Drive Gear Cover, you got everything you need in this Terms. I personally buy three new Bolts for the Stator itself, better said replace them with some out of my Cabinett. Those are not funny, most likely you'll ruin one or two anyway. Warm the Threads good before starting to loosen them, because those have Loctite on them.

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Back several years ago we had charging systems problems on the 1985 Honda Goldwings and all the Honda Pacifiic Coast 800 1989-1998. The short simple fix was to break the plastic connector that created the plug connection from the stator to the voltage regulator rectifier then solder and shrink wrap all three wires together, seperately. In doing so the wires no longer and disipated heat at the plug causing the plastic plug to get brittle then melt causing a failure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've read all the posts and I'm still determining wether to buy a 50 amp stator myself. A few close calls of the starter barley starting the bike has convinced me to leave the fog lights off while driving. lol.

I have an electrical background and back in the 80's I learned it all about charging systems and batteries from working in a garage.

Strange how these bikes when they were new always seemed to have enough power but years later, everones getting a H.O. stator... I agree, it will supply a suffient amount of charge. Easy fix. But, calculate the loads, 22 indicator lts, one head lamp, carb heaters, dash lights, ignition; it all adds up. just lights and carbs alone add up to 26 amps by my calculations. eg: 22 lamps @ 9w + 55w headlight = 253w, devide by 12 volts = 21 amps plus carbs (I think 5amps) for a total of 26amps. Rev the engine to 3k and voltage goes up to 13.6, devide that into the watts and gives you 23.5 amps total. Go figure eh.

My experience has led me to question this senario and look for another problem. The stator is a three phase AC generator coverted to DC thu three diodes in the rectifier, loose one diode or one segment of the stator and we have a charging problem but it'll still charge. The regulators job is to monitor the voltage, when low, it feeds the rotor to excite the magnetic field to beging the charge.

I'm going to test my diodes and stator before buying a new stator as soon as i can figure out how to get it apart. lol. I'll post back as to my findings.

Sorry for being so long winded here, just trying to share my electrical education.:lightbulb:

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sparksterr

 

...i'm no expert..i do understand basic electric circuits, charging, discharging, batteries etc...and i've learned a lot more on this site......but i think i've finally given up on my venture and it's charging system....ironic that you just made your post.

 

i have installed the high output stator, new battery last year, and for good measure,a new regulator....i have run/turn/brake lights (incandescent)..switched from 55w to 35w running lamps and no other additional lighting....battery cables are good, tight, and connections are clean.....and when i plug in a heated vest and gloves...i watch my voltage drop from 13.6 (plus or minus) to around 12.2....if i switch to the headlight only, then voltage goes back up to 13 plus.....others on here say that they can run a lot more than i have and they have no problem with the stock system....so...i don't know ..... it appears that the higher stator hasn't made a difference......

Edited by jlh3rd
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sparksterr

 

...i'm no expert..i do understand basic electric circuits, charging, discharging, batteries etc...and i've learned a lot more on this site......but i think i've finally given up on my venture and it's charging system....ironic that you just made your post.

 

i have installed the high output stator, new battery last year, and for good measure,a new regulator....i have run/turn/brake lights (incandescent)..switched from 55w to 35w running lamps and no other additional lighting....battery cables are good, tight, and connections are clean.....and when i plug in a heated vest and gloves...i watch my voltage drop from 13.6 (plus or minus) to around 12.2....if i switch to the headlight only, then voltage goes back up to 13 plus.....others on here say that they can run a lot more than i have and they have no problem with the stock system....so...i don't know if and it appears that the higher stator hasn't made a difference......

 

 

 

Thanks jl for your input, very helpfull.

I won't be buying a new stator after all.

My 1st check will be the diode treo (rectifier) if i can get to it. I'll be changing the fuse panel to a newer spade type bcz anywhere there's heat = loss of power and my fuses are hot. Poor connections is the next check.

Whats the wattage of your vest and gloves?

watts devided by volts = amps.

I did read on here that the wire comming from the stator to the rectifier can be a poor connection thus loosing power from the charging source which is the worse place for a hot connection. Not sure how accurate that ifo is until i get deeper into my wireing.

I've got 2 55 watt fog lights i can't use so I need to find the problem.

Let me know if you find anything else out.

ttul - sparksterr:puzzled:

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not much more to report.....the connection you are talking about is the stock connector from the stator....some say it can corrode and inhibit current..and i believe that.......but.....when you get the upgrade stator, that problem is eliminated because you solder (sic?)..the wires together..............so i shouldn't have that problem

i just made a run and my voltage shows about 13.9 with high beam.......13.5 +/- with passing lamps......and a few days ago when i used my heated vest and gloves, voltage was not much over 12......so im discouraged

i don't know the wattage, but the jacket liner is gerbings . and the gloves were won in a contest from yamaha and i forget the make.....i guess there could be a problem with the heated clothes....but they work.....

 

there are people on this site that know way more than me about this system....i don't wanna steer you wrong.......maybe they will chime in......plus, do a search on this site.....this topic has been discussed many times........

Edited by jlh3rd
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Guest studiojma

Finished installing the stator this week. Everything was going well until I tried to remove the two bolts holding the plate that holds the wires out of the way in the crankcase cover. Used some pb blaster to try and loosen them, and then had to use an impact wrench on it. Got it to start spinning but then I snapped the head off of one of the bolts. I ended up drilling it out and tapping in the next size up thread.

 

If I had a torch I would have used heat to try and loosen it up. Just a heads up to anyone that has issues removing those bolts.

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The Buckeye stator is a quality piece of equipment. Mines coming up on 2 years and it works fine. You have to hard wire it in as the plastic connection is a weak link. Good thing about it is the wires are about a foot longer than stock. I was able to route it up alongside the left side of the battery and solder them standing up. One other thing for those considering the upgrade: replace your rectifier at the same time and check those connections in the rectifier plug. Mine were loose and one was burnt, forcing me to rewire the plug with new connections. :smile5:

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Well I'm' going into the fray'. I bought my stator from Old Bike Barn $129.00 shipped.

I also bought high output mosfet regulator:pushups: from JACK M FLEMING

JACK FLEMING

17252 HAWTHORNE BLVD # 222

TORRANCE CA 90504-1032

not to endorse but he personally called to make sure I received the product and I did, cost shipped 130.00can, same reg you all have bought,with new ot 5 cable and great instructions. Just waiting for the OBB to finish going through customs.

 

My 2 cents . Mike R..:smile5:

 

:innocent-emoticon:

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Well I'm' going into the fray'. I bought my stator from Old Bike Barn $129.00 shipped.

I also bought high output mosfet regulator:pushups: from JACK M FLEMING

JACK FLEMING

17252 HAWTHORNE BLVD # 222

TORRANCE CA 90504-1032

not to endorse but he personally called to make sure I received the product and I did, cost shipped 130.00can, same reg you all have bought,with new ot 5 cable and great instructions. Just waiting for the OBB to finish going through customs.

 

My 2 cents . Mike R..:smile5:

 

:innocent-emoticon:

 

Is your bike a 2nd Gen? Are those places selling stators and regulators for the RSV? I wasn't aware of them.....

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She's a 1983, noticed the voltmeter doing the jump up and the radio getting full AC ripple and from past Gold wing experience, I knew that the Regulator was f$$ked.

 

So check out Old Bike Barn and Jack. the parts were discounted at OBB

Mike R.. Calgary..:2133:

Pictures taken at Sunshine Valley Banff National Pk. Alberta..

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She's a 1983, noticed the voltmeter doing the jump up and the radio getting full AC ripple and from past Gold wing experience, I knew that the Regulator was f$$ked.

 

So check out Old Bike Barn and Jack. the parts were discounted at OBB

Mike R.. Calgary..:2133:

Pictures taken at Sunshine Valley Banff National Pk. Alberta..

 

Nice color for the Venture. I'm not much for green but that is pretty nice.

BOO

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