sparksterr

Thanks jl for your input, very helpfull. I won't be buying a new stator after all. My 1st check will be the diode treo (rectifier) if i can get to it. I'll be changing the fuse panel to a newer spade type bcz anywhere there's heat = loss of power and my fuses are hot. Poor connections is the next check. Whats the wattage of your vest and gloves? watts devided by volts = amps. I did read on here that the wire comming from the stator to the rectifier can be a poor connection thus loosing power from the charging source which is the worse place for a hot connection. Not sure how accurate that ifo is until i get deeper into my wireing. I've got 2 55 watt fog lights i can't use so I need to find the problem. Let me know if you find anything else out. ttul - sparksterr:puzzled:

Just a friendly warning for everyone useing a GPS on your bike. Use a teather strap to secure the GPS to the bike just in case it falls off during a ride, with the tie, it won't go far... lol It happend to me a couple years back, 110 km/h the GPS (Garmin C550) let go just when I was accelerating on the on ramp. It hit the hyway, bounced several times with a near miss of a tractor trailer wheel. Luckily, I didn't loose control or I would of been under the tire. These things are well made, it still worked other then a few scatches. Just my 2 cents worth.

I've read all the posts and I'm still determining wether to buy a 50 amp stator myself. A few close calls of the starter barley starting the bike has convinced me to leave the fog lights off while driving. lol. I have an electrical background and back in the 80's I learned it all about charging systems and batteries from working in a garage. Strange how these bikes when they were new always seemed to have enough power but years later, everones getting a H.O. stator... I agree, it will supply a suffient amount of charge. Easy fix. But, calculate the loads, 22 indicator lts, one head lamp, carb heaters, dash lights, ignition; it all adds up. just lights and carbs alone add up to 26 amps by my calculations. eg: 22 lamps @ 9w + 55w headlight = 253w, devide by 12 volts = 21 amps plus carbs (I think 5amps) for a total of 26amps. Rev the engine to 3k and voltage goes up to 13.6, devide that into the watts and gives you 23.5 amps total. Go figure eh. My experience has led me to question this senario and look for another problem. The stator is a three phase AC generator coverted to DC thu three diodes in the rectifier, loose one diode or one segment of the stator and we have a charging problem but it'll still charge. The regulators job is to monitor the voltage, when low, it feeds the rotor to excite the magnetic field to beging the charge. I'm going to test my diodes and stator before buying a new stator as soon as i can figure out how to get it apart. lol. I'll post back as to my findings. Sorry for being so long winded here, just trying to share my electrical education.

I just bought a gel cell with no sensor hole. So I was wondering how to defeat the light. I will try this right away, thanks. I took my box of resistors out and kept trying different ones till the light went out, (.994k X 2k) worked. Did the mod with buts and heat shrink. I bought a durabatt, last march /09 and it was toast already. (Never buy a batt made in China). This new one I bought from Napa, Glass/Gell = 300 cold cranking amps, hopefully i won't need another one for a very long time.

Had a Garmin C550 myself, it fell off my bike at 110kph, bounced on the hyway, picked it up and still worked like a champ other then a few scratches. They are tough units so the next one I buy will be a garmin. Oh, never leave your GPS on your windshield of your car in plain sight, it'll likly be gone when you get back and you'll have a window to replace.