Jump to content
IGNORED

Bad Key Switch ( RiderDuke)


Kregerdoodle

Recommended Posts

On the day my switch failed I had just gassed up the bike. I noticed that the key was hot but there was nothing I could do about that. When I re-inserted the key into the switch the failure happened and the key locked up in the switch and I was unable to even start the engine.

 

Luckily I have a good Dealer nearby. The scoot was picked up within 30-45 minutes and on her way to the Shop. Dealer installed a new switch with no questions asked as the bike is still under Warranty.

 

There is a procedure in the Tech Section for bypassing the ignition switch in an emergency with the use of a toggle switch. That toggle switch bypass is now in place on my Venture so hopefully I will never be stranded because of switch failure.

 

 

Good luck with yours.

 

ps: I think Yammi charges about $125 for a new switch assembly.

Edited by BoomerCPO
ps:additional info.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They can get a little finicky about position before they quit. Mine is in this stage. I wiggle the key before hitting the start button or sometimes it won't fire and start. It's a good idea to have some alternatives handy in case it does quit on you somewhere. Things like a spare switch and the tools with you to change it, or the toggle switch bypass mentioned above, or otherwise know how to hot wire the thing. It will quit on you somewhere sooner or later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's hot it got resistance in there somewhere,, and that will cause problems, like failure. If it were mine and I wasn't going to change it just yet, I would squirt it with lots of Deep Creep and then maybe not have any problems ever,, but then what do I know,,, first gens don't have that issue,,, they always start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I almost feel bad for getting off subject when Kbay was trying to get a good answer to a problem before it happens. Honestly, I am interested in this thread too. Nothing worse than breaking down out on the road. Sorry for making a joke. Is there a thread about adding the hidden switch? I will have to remember that for later......:whistling:

future "Second Genner"......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there a thread about adding the hidden switch? I will have to remember that for later......:whistling:

 

future "Second Genner"......

 

Called Emergency Repair in tech section. Mine just crapped out on me while getting gas 10 minutes after I left home.

 

Another one getting ready to see the light.

 

BRad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put the whole lighting circuit on a relay so it doesn't go through the switch, no more hot key

or switch failure. Worked for me !

The lighting circuit is the cause of failure.

Gary

 

 

Thanks, I have the tech note on bypassing the key, I carry that and a chunk of wire on the bike allready, is there a write up on moving the lighting circuit to a relay??

 

Kreg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No Warning at all. Just got gas and was on the interstate cruze set at 83mph. (gps said 75) Lost cruze and then all power. coasted accross 2 lanes and got to the breakdown lane. i didn't even have time to try and reset the cruze control it all happened very fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello

my switch went bad about 2 years ago i put in the bypass toggle switch and that is what i have now never replace the ing switch. i have had no more problems. when it went out no waining was on side of road for 3 hrs waiting on my son to get off work to come hep

bumble bee

kevin wisor

1999 rsv

jax fl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once upon a time I had a ignition switch failure. So I dissassembled the switch and cleaned the contacts, put it back together and reinstalled it and everything is still ok. I don't remember it as a very hard operation. It might save you some significant bucks. No telling what Yamaha wants for that switch.

But then mine is a 1st gen, I don't have any experience with a second gen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my switch is starting to go bad as I have to wiggle the key to get it out of lock position. If I do the by-pass, do you still have to use the key? Have some of you left this on permanently or is it a temporary fix? Would the by-pass make it easier to steal?

I'm thinking about doing this mod before the switch goes bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I do the by-pass, do you still have to use the key? Have some of you left this on permanently or is it a temporary fix? Would the by-pass make it easier to steal?

.

 

Yes you still need the key. The bike will crank over but not start, without the key. Mine was temperaray untill I got a new switch.

 

The bypass is half the job in hot wiring the bike so I guess you would say it is easier to steal but I would assume anyone stealing it would just roll it away before trying to hot wire it in a parking lot.

 

BRad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have yet to have a key switch go bad...but my goodness I can imagine that would really ruin your day especially if you were on a great trip 1000 miles away from home in some pu dunk town like l live in with closest dealer 50 miles away and the chances they would have key switch are about 1000/1.

I was just wondering...what if as a preventive measure you went ahead and removed most of the load from the key switch and go ahead and install a 30amp relay to do the work. I was just looking at the wiring diagram and seem just about everything except radio/CB is fed through that one contact to the brown/blue wire. I do mean everything ignition, fuel pump, lights cruise control, and all lights.

The main fuse is a 30 Amp so a relay capable of handling 30 amps should be sufficient. A short piece of #10 AWG wire to T into the red power wire feeding the switch soldered and taped up with some of that self fusing rubber tape for reliability. This would allow the Power to still go into the key switch to power the radio and the contact that did power just about anything would now control only the coil of the relay.

 

Take a look at this modified wiring diagram ( the red is the added stuff) I took the wiring diagram from the back of the shop manual and modified it.

 

Tell me what you guys think...would it be worth wild to go ahead and do this since it is a protential problem to spoil a great road trip. I had not planned to carry enough tools to repair this kinda of stuff at a gas station.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are on to the same train of thought I have....

 

I want to install some type of fix now...not wait till I break down...

 

Your idea appears to be very well thought out, and as I sit here and review your drawing, I see no reason why it would not work. Hopefully others will jump in and review your drawing for any possible problems..

 

I want a fix of some type. I want to tear apart a stock ignition switch to see if I can come up with a simple mod for everyone, and your basically doing the same thing.

Cool beans.!! we need more brains working this issue since Yamaha wont..

 

In my fix, I would rather have another "key type switch" in place of a simple toggle switch though...I do not mean another ignition switch, but a smaller type switch (that is hidden some place) that takes a key to turn it on and off..

 

 

I have yet to have a key switch go bad...but my goodness I can imagine that would really ruin your day especially if you were on a great trip 1000 miles away from home in some pu dunk town like l live in with closest dealer 50 miles away and the chances they would have key switch are about 1000/1.

I was just wondering...what if as a preventive measure you went ahead and removed most of the load from the key switch and go ahead and install a 30amp relay to do the work. I was just looking at the wiring diagram and seem just about everything except radio/CB is fed through that one contact to the brown/blue wire. I do mean everything ignition, fuel pump, lights cruise control, and all lights.

The main fuse is a 30 Amp so a relay capable of handling 30 amps should be sufficient. A short piece of #10 AWG wire to T into the red power wire feeding the switch soldered and taped up with some of that self fusing rubber tape for reliability. This would allow the Power to still go into the key switch to power the radio and the contact that did power just about anything would now control only the coil of the relay.

 

Take a look at this modified wiring diagram ( the red is the added stuff) I took the wiring diagram from the back of the shop manual and modified it.

 

Tell me what you guys think...would it be worth wild to go ahead and do this since it is a protential problem to spoil a great road trip. I had not planned to carry enough tools to repair this kinda of stuff at a gas station.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just so I am not misunderstood...

My idea is to still use the existing key switch, no toggle or other switch to deal with and have to mount or try to hide. Instead of the set of contacts in the key switch that is now carrying most of the electrical load...let the sealed relay take care of this load. The orginal contacts of the key switch only carries the load of the relay coil.

 

:think:You know after I think about it some...that extra key switch is not a bad idea though. You could place it under the seat, under the trunk, on mount it in the inner fairing or some where and use it in the event of an emergency only. You would have to make sure it would handle the load. (at least 30 amps)

 

I have had one instance where the ignition switch kinda acted crazy. I have not had the RSV very long (only since Sept 08 or so) and I had just washed it and I turned the key to ACC to listen to the radio while I dried her off. The radio would not work unless you turn the key to the ON postion. Kinda strange but I did not worry about it. The ACC is a totally different contact on the ignition swith. After a while...I guess it dried out...it started back working.

I am installing passing lamps and the rest of my LED lights next week when I get back home... I will have the tank off plus the fairing split...I will look at it real close then.

Hell I may install some wires so I can to get them easily and install the relay or additional switch later...maybe even jump it out if I get in a bind on the road if neccessary.

I am still thinking about it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...