OldBull Posted January 1, 2009 Share #1 Posted January 1, 2009 Any tips on replacing bars to a more comfortable style? What works - what don't Bull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuD Posted January 1, 2009 Share #2 Posted January 1, 2009 You know that you can ajust the stock bars up/down & in/out, there are a few opptions there.........:canada: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted January 1, 2009 Share #3 Posted January 1, 2009 Any tips on replacing bars to a more comfortable style? What works - what don't Bull I dont really like the way the handlebars on my 85 look, but I sure liked them a lot better once I found out that I could adjust them in about 6 different directions and heights. Mine are very comfortable now, i never get the pain across the shoulders thing happening. So I guess my advice is replace them if you dont like the look, but if youre looking for more comfort, save your money, and get out the toolkit. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb1016 Posted January 1, 2009 Share #4 Posted January 1, 2009 I adjusted mine up & down but not sure what u mean by in and out JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted January 1, 2009 Share #5 Posted January 1, 2009 I adjusted mine up & down but not sure what u mean by in and out JB Under the cover in between the bars are 2 nuts that hold the bars onto the triple tree assy. Take the large top nuts off and loosen the 2 12mm bolts and the bars will slide up off the mounts and can be spaced inward or outwards. The actual handle bars that retain the trottle and electronics can be loosened to bring them up and down, they are very adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonslayer Posted January 1, 2009 Share #6 Posted January 1, 2009 I dont really like the way the handlebars on my 85 look, but I sure liked them a lot better once I found out that I could adjust them in about 6 different directions and heights. Mine are very comfortable now, i never get the pain across the shoulders thing happening. So I guess my advice is replace them if you dont like the look, but if youre looking for more comfort, save your money, and get out the toolkit. BrianI didn't like the way mine looked either untill I took the risers and had them professionally dipped and polished. It made a big difference by changing them from an oxidized aluminum look to a shinny bright chrome look and only cost about $60.00. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 1, 2009 Share #7 Posted January 1, 2009 I didn't like the way mine looked either untill I took the risers and had them professionally dipped and polished. It made a big difference by changing them from an oxidized aluminum look to a shinny bright chrome look and only cost about $60.00. Did that to a spare set, and ended up putting them on the '91. Cost a bit less, but still a great cosmetic improvement over the 'old' risers...... Time has taken it's toll on most 1stGen riser finishes, and because they're right up front and personal they can make a great looking bike appear shoddy..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted January 1, 2009 Share #8 Posted January 1, 2009 Jimbob and i have installed rizers and bars off a Kawa. Voyager , it moves the bars up and back and plus more of a spread . Thom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyHorse Posted January 3, 2009 Share #9 Posted January 3, 2009 (edited) Jimbob and i have installed rizers and bars off a Kawa. Voyager , it moves the bars up and back and plus more of a spread . Thom The original setup did not have enough adjustment for me. Yes, Voyager bars are adjustable and comfortable but you have to worry bout hitting the mirrors if you adjust them too much, plus they are normal bars so you can attach stuff easy like GPS.. I had to much tendonitus from the old bars who ever designed the angle of those bars ought to be shot. Poor design in my opinion. I like my bars more foward like a dirt bike or a Roadking. Look at my pictures. I also have a set of black powder coated risers with chrome inserts from the original set up if someone wants them. I think I have a pictoral somewhere on this site about how I did Voyager bar set up. Edited January 3, 2009 by CrazyHorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 3, 2009 Share #10 Posted January 3, 2009 I also have a set of black powder coated risers with chrome inserts from the original set up if someone wants them. I think I have a pictoral somewhere on this site about how I did it. Interesting. How much do you need for the black risers Jim?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyHorse Posted January 3, 2009 Share #11 Posted January 3, 2009 Interesting. How much do you need for the black risers Jim?? How bout the cost of shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 3, 2009 Share #12 Posted January 3, 2009 How bout the cost of shipping. Sounds good to me. I'll PM you the address. Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaplain Posted March 14, 2010 Share #13 Posted March 14, 2010 I want to adjust my handlebars and also put some oil in my fork tubes. However, I can not seem to figure out how to remove the black plastic cover. Does it just pop off? I do not want to break it. Oh, mine is an 83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barend Posted March 14, 2010 Share #14 Posted March 14, 2010 (edited) There's a small rectangular insert towards the tank cover which pops out. Phillips head underneath. Forgot what, if anything is on the insert, lost mine I haven't looked to see where mine are adjusted on the '83. I wouldn't mind mine back further, maybe an inch or so. But more important I would like my grips to be angled more forward so that I would have less wrist flexing and my hand would be more perpendicular on the grip. Of course that creates a problem since the two contradict each other. Oh well, maybe I'll win the lottery:rotfl: Edited March 14, 2010 by barend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted March 14, 2010 Share #15 Posted March 14, 2010 I didn't like the way mine looked either untill I took the risers and had them professionally dipped and polished. It made a big difference by changing them from an oxidized aluminum look to a shinny bright chrome look and only cost about $60.00. My risers look like chrome. Several years ago I stripped the clear coat and polished them and now, ever month or so I will use a little aluminum polish, like Mother's, and they look great and it only takes a couple of minutes. This is not a hard job and you don't have to take them off, even though I originally took mine off and polished them with a buffing wheel. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 14, 2010 Share #16 Posted March 14, 2010 I want to adjust my handlebars and also put some oil in my fork tubes. However, I can not seem to figure out how to remove the black plastic cover. Does it just pop off? I do not want to break it. Oh, mine is an 83 Read thru this tech article and it'll explain. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=505 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 14, 2010 Share #17 Posted March 14, 2010 I took paint stripper and removed all the paint & clear coat from these. Then sanded with 400 grit, then 800 grit sandpaper. The buffed on a 1HP buffer setup I have with a medium polish, then used Mothers for the final polish. I then taped off and powder coated centers of the risers. Getting the old clear coat off of any of these items is the hardest part. It has to be removed in order to get a decent luster back to the parts. I use an aircraft paint stripper available at Auto Zone that works very well. The clear coat turns opaque after time and no amount of polishing with it still on will work well. The picture of the stator cover shows the reflection from a piece of paper. This cover was oxidized and very dull before stripping, sanding & polishing. Also, the parts should be clear coated with a UV resistant paint afterwords. The untreated aluminum will start to oxidize with no covering. Engine covers require a high temp clear coat. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaplain Posted March 16, 2010 Share #18 Posted March 16, 2010 Under the cover in between the bars are 2 nuts that hold the bars onto the triple tree assy. Take the large top nuts off and loosen the 2 12mm bolts and the bars will slide up off the mounts and can be spaced inward or outwards. The actual handle bars that retain the trottle and electronics can be loosened to bring them up and down, they are very adjustable. I can't get at them with a crescent so I guess I need a big socket. Can you tell me what size they are so I can go buy one please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 16, 2010 Share #19 Posted March 16, 2010 I can't get at them with a crescent so I guess I need a big socket. Can you tell me what size they are so I can go buy one please? 1-1/8" will work. I think it's 28mm, but not absolutely sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now