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Rear tire change


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I have decided to give it a go changing out my rear tire. I have the new tire and a jack, but no adapter. is there a way to jack up the bike without an adapter? Not trying to sound too stupid here, just wanted to make sure I don't get myself in a bind....

 

Thanks,

 

Robert C.

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I would not do it. I guess you can place blocks to build around the frame/motor but your bike will be at the highest level of the jack. The adapter makes the bike very stable way up high on the jack. I would be nervous that the blocks would move and cause your bike to fall. :mo money:

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I spoke with Geoff Rich over at Antler Creek Leather. He has a second generation Venture, says he uses 4 - 2X2's notched a little for the frame, and straps the bike down. I may give that a go..... Have to wait on purchasing the adapter right now, so says the financial advisor.. :) Thanks for everyone's input....

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I use a similar method, four hockey pucks. I put a pie shaped notch one for the contact point by the kick stand to avoid pressure on the kick stand ignition kill switch. I did not use straps the first time I jacked the bike and it worked OK, but was a bit shakey. I strap the bike to the jack now and find it much less spooky when the bike is all the way in the air. I'm sure I could knock the whole thing over, but I would probably have to be very careless to do so.

 

On the other hand, I have been thinking I would like one of those adaptors. The only thing is I have the Freeebird center stand and it is my understanding that it needs to come off to use the adaptor.

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I spoke with Geoff Rich over at Antler Creek Leather. He has a second generation Venture, says he uses 4 - 2X2's notched a little for the frame, and straps the bike down. I may give that a go..... Have to wait on purchasing the adapter right now, so says the financial advisor.. :) Thanks for everyone's input....

 

That's what I have done. I also have 2 bicycle hangers in the garage ceiling that are anchored into the rafter. Once I get the bike up on the lift, I use some tie down straps on the handlebars and hook to the bicycle hooks. Done it that way twice now.

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With the Carbon One adapter, you can take it as high as you want and leave it there. I did a friends tires last month in his garage and he liked to freak out. He kept holding the bike as I jacked it up and I told him to let go there was no problem. Once the rear tire dropped out I went and started to remove the front and he wanted to put support at the rear in case the weight shifted. Again I told him to back off. His 06 RSV sat high and stable until we started reinstalling the wheels and new tires. He is a believer now. :backinmyday:

 

:farmer:

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I definitley plan on purchasing one of the adapters, I am in a position now that I have to wait a month or so. Unfortunately, the tire change can't wait.... One shop I called said I could drop the bike off on Saturday and leave it for a couple of days, and they would charge me 'only' 140.00 plus tax the change the tire.....

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I definitley plan on purchasing one of the adapters, I am in a position now that I have to wait a month or so. Unfortunately, the tire change can't wait.... One shop I called said I could drop the bike off on Saturday and leave it for a couple of days, and they would charge me 'only' 140.00 plus tax the change the tire.....

 

That is not acceptable. You can get your tire change much less than that. Check around! And it should be done as you wait. You need to get the Carbon One adapter, it has made my life simple. I use a Sears jack I bought long ago for $79.00 and it is great.

 

:farmer:

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I definitley plan on purchasing one of the adapters, I am in a position now that I have to wait a month or so. Unfortunately, the tire change can't wait.... One shop I called said I could drop the bike off on Saturday and leave it for a couple of days, and they would charge me 'only' 140.00 plus tax the change the tire.....

 

 

 

I hope that includes the tire and the tire is an E3. Then your talking $30 for labor which think is fine but should only take a 30-40 minutes to change not 2-3 days.

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I'll have to call around.... I have the tire.... They were quoting 1.5 to 2 hrs, but I would have had to leave the bike one day and pick it up another.... I am sure there are better places around.... I will definitley be getting the adapter some time in Nov. so I have it for my next change....

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If you have a Harbor Freight or Northern Tool store close by (or order on line) go and buy a bike jack, either one of them sells them for 59.00 and believe me they will be used, I even use mine to level it up to wash and wax. The bike has got to come up at least 8 inches for the tire to clear the fender, so if you put it on a fixed mount I assure you, you will need additional clearance to get the tire off, it always works that way. While you have it down, change the oil in the final drive and also grease the gears, also a good time to give the rim and undercarage a good cleaning. But buy a jack, it will pay for itself very quickly when you do oil changes, inspect tires, tire pressure, ect: ect;

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I do have a jack.. Bought it when I had the VTX1300..... Was definitely a life-saver... Looks like I'm going to be able to order the adapter sonner rather than later, now to see which version of the adapter I will be allowed to get.. :)

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I do have a jack.. Bought it when I had the VTX1300..... Was definitely a life-saver... Looks like I'm going to be able to order the adapter sonner rather than later, now to see which version of the adapter I will be allowed to get.. :)

 

 

 

At the $140 quote it would be cheaper to buy the adapter to bring the wheel in to change. The best part is before to re install the tire you can lube the hub and spindles which the dealer will never perform. :080402gudl_prv:

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The last time I changed the rear tire, I picked up the bike with my engine hoist..very simple and the tire slipped straight down easily....maybe a solid tree and come-a-long?...probably safer and cheaper than a jack and adapter....:):):)

 

 

 

Where and how did you strap or hook the bike to lift it? Just the back end or the entire bike?

Sounds like a good idea.

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Wow, glad I have been blessed to own a jack and a bike lift. I am not bragging here. You all are worrying me.

 

Lifting with a "come a long" or using hockey pucks and 2x4s and 2x2s. Please fellows, if you drop your bike from the height that it needs to be to change the tire, then you will definitely do more harm than good. It will cost you more to fix than an jack,adapter, or bike lift.

 

I got one of the Harbor Freight red bike lifts and it works great. I also have an adapter/stand Carbon One I think. I also have a bike jack from Harbor Freight that works well. I do not use the adapter that much anymore. I bought a set of tire tools from Jc Whitney for $14.00 that work very well to. Come with the plastic rim protector.

 

Wished you where closer and we could change those tires in just a little while. I would not trust the dealers (most) to do the job to my specs. I think you should lube the splines on both ends of the drive shaft and the fingers in the rear wheel. Also change the rear deferential oil at this time. It would be a good idea to also purchase a decent torque wrench to put the bolts back to factory specs, especially the axle nuts. Use Honda Molly grease.

 

I have learned all this from these good people here on this site. If you need help, just holler at them and they will come running.

 

Fuzzy

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Thanks everyone for all the useful info... I bit the bullet and had the wife drop a check inthe mail to Carbon_One.... Should hopefully have it by the end of next week/begining of wee after that.... My jack has the shorter feet so I have asked him to do the add-on to make it fit.... I look forward to trying it out...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I attached a chain around the bar that protects the front of each saddlebag, my engine hoist easily lifted the rear so I could slip the wheel assy off...put a long bolt through 2 links just below and on either side where the hoist hook attaches to the chain...that way the bike won't roll over....pick just the rear up...there have been lots of injured bikes and "wrenchers" when bikes have toppled off lifts...some even at the stealership....2 bikes were dropped on the show OCC..remember that?....lifting it that way seems easy and stable..the only down side is that is wants to move around some if you try to apply pressure to a bolt of something....have everything removed except the axle, raise bike, remove axle/wheel, lower it on some scrap wood and reverse process when reinstalling...

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you have already have ordered the adapter so this doesn't really matter, but it is perfectly safe to use 4 2 x 4 blocks or 4 hocky pucks. Your jack should have rings on the front and back and you can run a strap from one over the top of the bike between the tank and the front of the seat. This will stablize the bike on the jack and you can go as high as you wish and do what ever work you need to do.I have done this for years until I got an adapter.

 

Someone asked about an adapter for a 1st gen but as they have a centerstand neither an adapter or jack is needed.I have never used my jack on my 1st gen tho if I did I would use the above method.

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