Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I recently developed an afterfire on my 84. Upon further inspection, I have one fair sized crak near the very rear of my collector.. I imagine there may be more.. Time to fix I suppose...How much effort and job to remove this and weld....I think the baffles are okay.

Any tip or trick to speed removal or make it easier?

 

Thanks

 

Clay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That thread does a great job of describing the procedure. You'll have to take your bags off to make it easier to get at the rear downtube clamp screws, they're on each side of the shock just below the swingarm. A set of long metric allen bits makes it easier to remove/loosen everything.

 

Good luck Clay,

 

 

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
What does removing the baffles from the collector do to the sound of the exhaust?

 

 

Nothing really, there is only 1 right in the center of the collector running fore and aft, basically just splits the chamber in half.

Clay,

Not a hard job, just time consuming like mentioned above. I had to do it on my '89 and cursed at it a few times, but got it buttoned back up with no issues. Front tubes are easy to get off, the rear suck as you have to take the down tubes out of the rear heads. This is so you can break loose the pipes from the collector, putting it back on can be a bit tricky, but paitence will help you immmensely :whistling:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well that's a bit disappointing, the article mentioned getting better breathing so I was hoping to get a bit more growl out of the stock exhaust too. I might do it this Winter anyway just to see what happens.

 

Thanks Clay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed mine without removing the rear exhaust pipes from the heads. Just loosen the clamps where the rear exhaust pipes connect to the collector. There are two bolts holding the collector under the engine. Once these two bolts are removed, the front pipes removed entirely (from the heads and the collector), the mufflers are removed, prying the collector down and it can be easily removed. Maybe with a few curse words and a break or two. I don't think the rear exhaust pipes can even be entirely removed without removing the engine first. There is a way, but I have to explain how I did so in another post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I followed a similar article and it wasn't all that difficult of a job ... just a bit time-consuming. You'll probably have to replace the gaskets tho and they aren't cheap.

 

Just bought a new set of gaskets from a local Yamaha dealer (Tri City Cycle - Waterloo). 4 header to collector gaskets $20 each. 2 Collector to muffler gaskets $13 each. Gaskets at top of rear headers $8 each. And front header to engine gaskets $5.50 each. Total $133 plus taxes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed mine without removing the rear exhaust pipes from the heads. Just loosen the clamps where the rear exhaust pipes connect to the collector. There are two bolts holding the collector under the engine. Once these two bolts are removed, the front pipes removed entirely (from the heads and the collector), the mufflers are removed, prying the collector down and it can be easily removed. Maybe with a few curse words and a break or two. I don't think the rear exhaust pipes can even be entirely removed without removing the engine first. There is a way, but I have to explain how I did so in another post.

 

i have done mine twice now and both times did not remove the rear down pipes , just take the two front pipes off and did the same as masterguns did . And yes you will say a few curse words getting the collector loose from the rear down tubes the first time ,i just pryed and wiggled it to get it loose. The second time it came off with no problem. you will have to remove the mufflers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just did mine, mostly a PITA. Pulled the entire system and did not have to remove the bags. mine had three broken welds on the collector mounting bracket and a crack on the fourth as well as a hard to spot crack on the down tubes where the bolts are welded in. One minor issue I ran into was that about half the mounting studs came out when I tried to remove the allan head nut.

 

Rocket was kind enough to help me out and advised moving the brake reserevoir and at least loosening the frame brace. Even without tech article it's relatively easy to figure out once you start pulling stuff of.

 

Have fun!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...