has anyone explored alternative voltage regulator...

My R/R is out and i'm explorind other than OEM equipment options since the OEM isnt readily available around here. And it would be a new experience.

Right now i am running one from an XV535 that is working but for how long i can't guess. it gets supper hot. Probably overloaded ...

Anyone know what the voltage from the stator is, i have been looking at a shindengen unit that has a voltage max of 40 volts.

The best R/R you can buy at these Times is the Shindegen Unit from the 2007- YZF R1, also at '09 Vmax. It doesnt get hot at all. Works like Charm and hasn't much of electrical Loss. Might need some rewiring because the Connector won''t fit, but well worth the Effort.

Here a write-up for a Vmax ... http://imageevent.com/jkvmax/regulatorrectifier

Now there's a question, I need answers too.

I'd like to make the back of the bike look like a christmas tree, like I did my Goldwing years ago.

maybe, 30 or 40 small lights, around the bags, & trunk, and a few around the Liecense plate.

will the bike handle 40 candle watts, plus the bar tail light & brake light?

Now there's a question, I need answers too.

I'd like to make the back of the bike look like a christmas tree, like I did my Goldwing years ago.

maybe, 30 or 40 small lights, around the bags, & trunk, and a few around the Liecense plat. will

the bike handle 40 candle watts, plus the bar tail light & brake light?

I've got two bumpers on mine, one around bags and one around trunk. There are 18 incandescent lights with two bulbs each on these bars. That's 36 extra lights and when used with my driving lights the battery would slowly discharge. Last week I changed the 18 lights for new LED lights with bulbs pper light. Now the gauge doesn't move when flipping on the lights. They are brighter and use hardly any juice at all. I just went out and took these pictures and they didn't turn out as well as I thought they would.

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/COMPAQ%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.pnghttp://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/DSC_0001-17.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l221/rhncue/DSC_0002-15.jpg

Dick

Now there's a question, I need answers too.

I'd like to make the back of the bike look like a christmas tree, like I did my Goldwing years ago.

maybe, 30 or 40 small lights, around the bags, & trunk, and a few around the Liecense plate.

will the bike handle 40 candle watts, plus the bar tail light & brake light?

Do you have the Upgraded, higher Amperage Stator installed ???

If you install 40 extra bulbs, you will most likley need the extra amperage

Changing from 4 watt incandescent bulbs to their equivalent LED at .24 watts will allow your stator to be happy and the lighting is VERY nice... The main shortcoming of the design of these bikes is the alternator / regulator design... so we don't fight it, we work with it... I still use the large bulbs for the main brake and tail light but the other lights are LEDs.

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/taillight.jpg

I have light bars also. Rarely turn them on . WHERE can I find these replacement LED bulbs that fit the #158 socket?

MBROOD!!! I really like what you have done to your bike!! WooHoo! Do you have the time to write up a little paragraph or three to tell us all about it? I would like to hear. Maybe others would too. Parts nad vendors would be great if you have that info. Super!!

I agree , I would like to add some lights on the back also- especially in the trunk area!

that lighting info was very interesting, i have two in my bumper lights, I need a better source for them than autozone though. all they cary seems to be the amber led's.

Any more on the Regulator swap???

Well, an amber LED behind a red lens makes orange...fine by me. As long as it fits the 158 socket...yes?

The best R/R you can buy at these Times is the Shindegen Unit from the 2007- YZF R1, also at '09 Vmax. It doesnt get hot at all. Works like Charm and hasn't much of electrical Loss. Might need some rewiring because the Connector won''t fit, but well worth the Effort.

 

Here a write-up for a Vmax ... http

://i

mageevent.com/jkvmax/regulatorrectifier

Hey Squeeze, it looks like I'm about to aquire a Shindegen FH012aa regulator. On the wiring it appears that there are only 2 wires running from the unit to the ign or battery. 1 red and 1 black. On the Venture there are 2 red, 2 black and a brown. Is the reason for the 2 red and black the same as the singles from the Shindegan but only heavier. There also is no brown wire. At any rate, my question is, where and how are these 2 wires connected to the bike so that it does it's job? I read some of the different explanations on using one of these and they seem to say to run directly to the battery. I thought that maybe you could clear up these questions as you are knowledgable on the Venture and the V-Max both.

Thanks, Dick

Well, I'm not Squeeze, but I can answer your question......

The two red wires (and also the 2 blacks) going into the motorcycle are in parallel--that means both wires connect to the same place. I think Yammie did this to have 2 pins in the connector to share current. Cut the Yamaha plug off and connect the 2 red wires together. Then take the red from your aftermarket regulator and connect it to the 2 reds (3 total). I twisted mine together and soldered them. Do the same for the black wires. The brown wire is so the Yamaha regulator can measure the voltage at the ignition switch (remote sensing). The aftermarket regulators measure the voltage at the red wire. Just tape up the brown wire and everything will be fine.

Frank D.

I just installed (last week) a FH012AA regulator/rectifier on my '83 std. I too was concerned with the extra brown wire in the wiring schematics. When I got down to installing the unit I found that the brown wire didn't pass through the old R/R plug. It stopped on the bike side.

I ran the red wire (30 amp inline fuse) and the black ground wire direct to the battery. The Shindengen R/R runs at air temperature and doesn't heat up like the old SCR based Regulator. The FET's in the Shendengen regulator have less resistance and don't generate heat while operating. The Shindengen regulator is rated for 50 amps so it has really has alot of extra capacity.

I mounted the new regulator in the left airduct in the fairing to provide cooling if it needed it and to get it away from the engine heat. I got a set of the connecting plugs from the seller on Ebay, but I found that Eastern Beaver. com has them in stock.

Below are a few views of the regulator and the mounting location in the fairing air duct. I changed my regulator because I was concerned with the age of the unit and I wanted to try a newer technology regulator to try and reduce the heat problems and to move the regulator to a more protected location.

I got all of the LEDs from superbrightleds.com... they are great to work with and super delivery and their site shows great specs... if in doubt give them a call.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

The "reflector" below the license plate is a two part item that I split with repeated strokes of an exacto blade, top and bottom (the ends aren't sealed)... you might as well get a chair and turn the radio on... take some time and slowly try and make a clean cut on top and bottom. A dremel saw might work ok but it leaves a nasty edge to clean up. I clamped a metal ruler on top and bottom, aligned with the seam and let that guide the blade. With it apart, I bought some side mounted wedge bulb holders from a lamp repair shop and bolted them in and ran the wire out the back through a grommet. You could use diodes and a resistor and make them running AND brake light, I just used them as a running light. I used high temp hot glue to put the halves together... that's also what the trunk light assembly was put together with from the factory.

I put all the running lights through a relay driven by an illuminated switch on the dash... I can turn them off if needed and I can "flick" them to get someone's attention behind me.

I also doubled the number of wedge holders in the trunk light assembly (old BigBikeParts item) and good thing I did open it up... their factory "wiring" was quite sad... (I cut the blue wire getting ready to update all the wiring and bulbs but the black was attached by two strands.) I wired four as running and four as brake.

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/bigbike5.jpg

I also bought 2 light bulb harness assemblies for the front turn signal. This is a two way recepticle (1157) and you unplug the old rear bulb holder from the two trunks and put these in... You can swap the front harness connector pins out and swap them into the old two pin connector of the old bulb holder keeping THAT part of the wiring intact and just hard wire the running light up under the seat. This gives you turn signals AND running lights down there. (WARNING: Some states may outlaw yellow running lights in the rear!

You want to MATCH the color of the LED to the color of the lens. This gives maximum light transfer. An amber behind a red lens greatly reduced the amber output. Match the color!

I did this all a few years ago so their numbers and pricing may be slightly different.

LEDs for wedge mount

From superbrightleds.com... Amber bulbs that go in the front disc rotor cover are WLED-A4 and are $1.59 each (4 LED narrow beam, amber). It's VERY important to get the old incandescents out of the front rotor cover... they get very HOT in that small space and melt the yellow lens... which is flat not available.

The red 9mm bayonet type bulbs are BA9s-R and are $.98 each. The bulbs I used in my upper light bar that are the blade type that I needed the light to come out sideways were WLED-R that are red, single LED, wide-inverted cone tip. These were $.87 each.

Brighter Brakes and turn signals

The stock bulb for the bike is #1157. specs are 32/3 candlepower.

Bulb # 2357LL has the same base, plugs right in. Specs 40/3 candlepower.

Running light will be the same brightness, brake light will be 25% brighter.

front bumper and trunk turn signal in amber

Quantity: 6 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Amber

Accessory running lights/wide angle/side view

Quantity: 18 Product: WLED-R Red LED bulb $ 0.89 (each) Options: Wide - Inverted Cone Tip

Front disc brake rotor cover ... in amber

Quantity: 4 Product: WLED-A4 Amber LED bulb $ 1.59 (each)

Trunk and reflector red lights

Quantity: 12 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Red

I actually pulled one side of my running lights and put in LEDs and then compared the two sides. The LEDs looked MORE red and JUST as bright as the incandescent but when I swapped them all my stator/regulator loved me. It was NOT my friend with all of those incandescents burning!!!

Running Light replacement lenses: Drag Specialties

DS-28015 large red

DS-280153 large amber

DS-280168 small red

DS-280167 small amber

Sweet!!! This is what I assumed with the red and black wires but I wasn't sure about the brown. I can hardly wait until I receive the new unit.

Dick

I just installed (last week) a FH012AA regulator/rectifier on my '83 std. I too was concerned with the extra brown wire in the wiring schematics. When I got down to installing the unit I found that the brown wire didn't pass through the old R/R plug. It stopped on the bike side.

 

 

I ran the red wire (30 amp inline fuse) and the black ground wire direct to the battery. The Shindengen R/R runs at air temperature and doesn't heat up like the old SCR based Regulator. The FET's in the Shendengen regulator have less resistance and don't generate heat while operating. The Shindengen regulator is rated for 50 amps so it has really has alot of extra capacity.

 

 

I mounted the new regulator in the left airduct in the fairing to provide cooling if it needed it and to get it away from the engine heat. I got a set of the connecting plugs from the seller on Ebay, but I found that Eastern Beaver. com has them in stock.

 

 

Below are a few views of the regulator and the mounting location in the fairing air duct. I changed my regulator because I was concerned with the age of the unit and I wanted to try a newer technology regulator to try and reduce the heat problems and to move the regulator to a more protected location.

Great Job !!

Did you measure System Voltages before and after the Mod ? Would be interesting to know.

It have the Shindegen on my new Max. It's mounted lying flat right underneath the Passenger Seat. I won't get hot or Momma would have a great Seat Heating. I'll mount the Shindegen on my Venture this next Winter while the Venture will receive a serious Overhaul and Update. In the Meantine, also found out that this Unit is used in the FJR1300 since 2007 at least.

Regarding the 2 Wires of each Color, I checked the '83 Wiring Diagram and comparing this with frankd's Statement, I think that's another Point where the Manual is far off the real World. I suspected the brown Wire to be the "Sense" Wire and the red Wire as D+, a common Notation of the R/R Output Wire, Black is Ground. But The Wiring Diagram is much different to that. There shouldn't be two Wires of the same Color at all. I'm glad SaltyDog already figured this out.

I did measure the voltage at the battery with the original stock regulator and that was another reason to look for a newer replacement. My old original R/R had my old wet cell battery at around 13-13.5 volts (not bad), but then I changed over to a larger capacity AGM battery. I wanted to get the charging up to at least 14-14.5 volts to keep the new battery at it's full capacity. The Shindengen R/R will do this and since I found a brand new unit for oly $30.00 with the connectors it was a no brainer to upgrade.

I mounted the new regulator under the seat on my '83 at first also but I got concerned with the low air flow and all the heat that comes off the engine. After looking around the bike I figure the airducts in the fairing offered the best location (for me) to get protection and provide cooling airflow that is not heated by the eingine while riding in the hot summer weather. The performance info for the Shindengen R/R shows the unit has to be derated for output with the higher ambient termperatures of it's mounting location.

Since I want to get the most out of my charging system, I figured that alittle more cooler air would pay off in the long run. The other posts I read while researching the swap strongly reccommended to bypass the old wiring on the bike So I ran the red and black output wires directly to the battery to reduce the electrical resistance (voltage drop and heating) and posible problems.

Since I already use the left and right hidden areas of the fairing (between the inner and outer walls) to mount all my new gadgets, mounting the R/R was easy. I have the R/R in the left air duct. I mounted the cooling fan timer and relays for the driving lights and dual horns in the new hidden space I created in the left fairing. In the right fairing, I mounted a bike security alarm and another relay that supplies power to the ignition and takes the load off the ignition switch and kill switch. This relay insures full voltage and current is available to the TCI and ignition coils. The ignition switch and kill switch circuits only have to provide a small amount of current to energize the relay. The new relay will carry the load current directly through a fused supply from the battery. I wanted to get rid of the accumulated voltage drop that occurs with all the original electrical components in the stock electrical path.

I modified my left side of the fairing where the radio mounts and constructed an additional storage box and used a left console cover to make it look similar to the right side. The whole fairing looks stock from the outside to the casual observer. The new storage space is really handy and is big enough to hold the owners manual and my Ipod. I also added a 12v cigarrete plug in the bottom of the new box to power my Ipod. I put an extension headphone cable out through the fairing to the left sidecover so I can plug in my earphones easily while seated. With the Ipod remote control on my left handlebar the music is easily managed while on the road. I have a older 40 Gb Ipod with about 22 days of music and I am never bored with the music selection!

I did measure the voltage at the battery with the original stock regulator and that was another reason to look for a newer replacement. My old original R/R had my old wet cell battery at around 13-13.5 volts (not bad), but then I changed over to a larger capacity AGM battery. I wanted to get the charging up to at least 14-14.5 volts to keep the new battery at it's full capacity. The Shindengen R/R will do this and since I found a brand new unit for oly $30.00 with the connectors it was a no brainer to upgrade.

 

I mounted the new regulator under the seat on my '83 at first also but I got concerned with the low air flow and all the heat that comes off the engine. After looking around the bike I figure the airducts in the fng offerffered the best location (for me) to get protection and provide cooling airflow that is not heated by the eingine while ridin the the hot summer weather. The performance info for the Shindengen R/R shthe unit hit has to be derated for outputh the the higher ambient termperatures of mounting loc location.

 

 

Since I want to get the most out of my charging system, I figured that alittle more cooler airld pay pay off in the long run. The other posts I read while researching the swap strongly reccommended to bypass old wiring ong on the bike So I ran the red and black output wires directly to the battery to reduce the electrical resistance (voltage drop and heating) and posible problems.

 

ince I

e I already use the left and right hidden areas of the fairing (between the inner and outer walls) to mount all my new gadgets, mounting the R/R was easy. I have the R/R in the left air duct. I mounted the cooling fan timer and relays for the driving lights and dual horns in the new hidden space I created in the left fairing. In the right fairing, I mounted a bike security alarm and another relay that supplies power to the ignition and takes the load off the ignition switch and kill switch. This relay insures full voltage and current is available to the TCI and ignition coils. The ignition switch and kill switch circuits only have to provide a small amount of current to energize the relay. The new relay will carry the load current directly through a fused supply from the battery. I wanted to get rid of the accumulated voltage drop that occurs with all the original electrical components in the stock electrical path.

 

I modified my left side of the fairing where the radio mounts and constructed an additional storage box and used a left console cover to make it look similar to the right side. The whole fairing looks stock from the outside to the casual observer. The new storage space is really handy and is big enough to hold the owners manual and my Ipod. I also added a 12v cigarreug ilug in the bottom of ew box toox to power my Ipod. I put an extension headphoble able out through the fairing to the left sidecover so I can plug in my eaes easilyasily while seated. With the Ipod remote control on my left hbar ebar the music is easily managed while on the road. I have a older 40 Gb Ipod with about 22 days ofc andcI am I am never bored with the music selection!

WOW dude! You've really taken care of business. Very good ideas and implementations. I'm going to print out this reply and get busy doing some converting.

Dick

I must be getting mine from the same place as you as I asked the seller about plugs and he sold me whats needed for an additional 5.00. The brand new reg/rec was 36.00, the connections were 5.00 and s/h was 5.50. So for 46.50 I got a new and better reg for what a used standard reg would cost on e-bay. I'm one happy camper and can't hardly wait until it arrives. Thanks for the info folks. Now I've got to get busy doing some rewiring.

Dick

Sounds like I gots more money to spend! And some more work to do!

:mo money::bang head:

Thanks guys for the great write-ups!

I must be getting mine from the same place as you as I asked the seller about plugs and he sold me whats needed for an additional 5.00. The brand new reg/rec was 36.00, the connections were 5.00 and s/h was 5.50. So for 46.50 I got a new and better reg for what a used standard reg would cost on e-bay. I'm one happy camper and can't hardly wait until it arrives. Thanks for the info folks. Now I've got to get busy doing some rewiring.

 

Dick

Well, maybe we should look into a Group Buy on that Issue. I'd be interested in five of those, completely with the Connectors and Terminals. My Shipping could be sent over to Danob11 with his Unit. We probably could safe a Buck or Three when getting together 20 Sets or so ...

Well, maybe we should look into a Group Buy on that Issue. I'd be interested in five of those, completely with the Connectors and Terminals. My Shipping could be sent over to Danob11 with his Unit. We probably could safe a Buck or Three when getting together 20 Sets or so ...

The guy selling them is:

Indian Motorcycle Corp

116 Battleground Rd

Kings Mountain, NC

28086

United States

I've got his e-mail address also but have to look it up if interested. he's real easy to do business with.

Dick

Well I just got finished installing mine. I bolted it to the bar that runs from the front motor mount to the frame upright at the back of the engine. I put it right alongside the front cylinders in the open area on the front fairing lowers. I took the middle case cover off so that I could reroute the wires from the stator so that they came up through the opening for bleeding the clutch slave and just soldered the new plug on and then sent the other two wires straight up into the battery area. I put in a in line 30 amp fuse and connected to the battery. Upon starting the bike using a m/m it was charging 13.85 to 14 volts at 800 rpm. I then raised the rpms to about 2500 rpms and the voltage was a steady 14.49. I'm sure it's just my imagination but the bike feels as if it runs smoother.

Color me happy.

Dick

13.85 V at Idle is great !!!

Good Job !!

Didi you ask the Fellow about a Group Buy ?