Snaggletooth

Swifty, I need to ask you something as I'm trying to follow what's happening with this. I remember your directions for the R/R said to attach the Red and the Black wires together and attach them to the pos post of the battey. We agreed that was incorrect and led you way from that and went with only the (1) Green wire to ground. What did you end up doing the Black wire? Did you leave it loose or ground it? Not that it may make any differnce, but was curious about that Black wire. I'm still learning here myself. Mike

Yep they should have. As a general rule these bikes charge pretty low at idle speeds. Just barely at the battey static level (12.6) or even lower. Once you get past 1,500 or 2,000 RPMs the charge jumps up. Book say in the 14.5 range but most show lower than that. Depends a lot on the battery condition, the stator being used and the preformance of the R/R. I'll asume you still have the OEM stator and R/R. Never outstanding from the git go, but functional. As long as the battery is charging it should keep the battery fully topped off. But any normal draw with the bike key turned off, like the presets, should not cause an AGM to drop that low. I've ridden home at night with all the lights fired up and shut the bike down with the battery showing a bit low. The next morning the volts meter was reading higher than it was when I shut it down. The AGM's are a different animal as far as batteries go. Yours is not behaving well. There are so many things that could have effected your battery at the end of last season and caused issues now. But if I go into the things on that train of thought you'll be riding a Honda before the thread dies out. We'd rather see you get past this problem. Keep us posted on what you find. Mike

All depends on the wife and the firearm of choice.

Based on my voltmeter readings the "at idle" is going to be about right. With the DEKA being discharged quite a bit it does take a bit longer for the reading levels to come back up. The DEKA is basically a 12.8 volt battery right out of the box and from my experience with them that is pretty much where they will settle back to at rest every time. If you're seeing the battey drop that quickly to 12.0 volts at rest there is a problem. Either you have developed a major drain or the battery is faulty, I don't know what you are taking your test reads with so there is always the question of how accurate the readings are. If you have an opition for another voltmeter try that also and compare. When I have used the Tender Jr, on AGM's it shows it is charging at 14.5 volts until it hits full charge then steps down to about 13.0 volts. And I'm going to ask. You mentioned jumping the bike. Did you have the jump vehicle running when you did that?

I run a TomTom XXL and it lets me select to avoid Interstates and does fine with it. But the downside to that unit is it does not allow to program waypoints on a long trip. Got to go leg by legs on the long ones if you have points off the suggestest route.

I don't have an answer for that. Never had a reason to find out. I'd contact the provider you brought from and see how they handle that. If you can to a charger at 2 amps at about 14.5 volts over night and then pull all the fuses and any added connections that should tell you what's happening. Let us know what you find out. Mike

Mine has been in the bike for going on 5 years. It rarely sits more than day without riding unless there is snow on the ground. Never been on a Tender for any reason until recently. Had to dig mine out after all these years. I've had DEKAs sit on the shelf all winter with no charge to them and they don't drop more that 1/10th of a volt or two over several months. This winter, after sitting for quite a while the volts had dropped less than the usual 12.8 or 23.4 at the worst. It still cranked like new and was charging fine but it did take long to bring it back to the top. When I load tested it, it still showed 12.8 and rated "Good" on the test unit but the battey "Health" only showed 25%. Well it took a few years, lot of miles and a whole lot to starts to get it to 25%. If a DEKA, or any AGM is draining that fast I'd look for a parasitic drain from some connection on the bike. Check the volts at the battey posts and see what you get both static and at 2,000 RPMs. If there is a problem with the battey itself I belive they will stand behind the 1 Year replacement policy. Mike

Yep, probably is real. I looked at it really close.

Paul, Glad you got the call. Hope it works out for final offer for a position. Good luck. Mike

I'm curious for a better answer myself. I have two merc sticks myself that I keep in the unheated garage year round. I noticed the spring before last I had the bubbles. I could tap them down a bit not get rid of them. Looking at the bubbles they appeared cloudy so figured it was condensation build up. I drained both sticks into a glass test tube while filtering them through medical gause. Stuffed a cotton ball in the top of the test tube and set it out in the sun for a couple hours. I knew heat would help but heating mercury with a heat gun didn't strike me as being all that great of an idea. I settled for solar. But it seemed to help. The bubbles went away. Until this spring. So I do think moisture causes the problem. And I have the Morgan. But I still like my sticks. NOTE: I do not belive my method is EPA approved. Just sayin'

If I'd known I would have sent some sheets along with the pump parts. Most providers use the ABS panels on their racks and displays. Shouldn't be too hard to find an old display being tossed.

Looks good. I do like the blue. I'm sure you guys are going to enjoy that for a long time.

Yep, got mine from a NAPA store. Just matched them up. At the time I bought chunk a solid core 7mm plug wire from the bulk roll and made a whole new set of wires. I mean as long as I was in there ya know. But one cap and trim the wire back a 1/4 of an inch and you should be good to go.

I've done every damaged mounting tab or crack with two part epoxy and laminating it with thin sheets of ABS plastic I got from advertising signs from a grocery store. Same material and if needed it can be shaped to a curve with a heat gun. I'd cut a piece to shape, rough sand the surface and wipe it down with alcohol to prep it. Treat both sides with epoxy and clamp them together. When it cured I'd shape and drill to fit. It the repair was a bit too thick I'd sand the new sheet down a bit. The repairs I did several years ago are still intact. I broke one tab on the side cover during the cold winter weather but I had leaned against it with my knee. Had that one coming. Re-did the repair and it's holding up fine. There are very few spots where the fixes are seen without looking for them. The way the panels overlap they hide pretty well.

16 is not good at idle. Not good and high revs either!! Don't see how the hook up could go wrong but the R/R is doing something wrong. The most I see on mine is 14.5 at revs on mine. I'd be concerned about the battry at 16.

Hey Steve, I've done that!! I got to ask, is it you cannot see the vids from the camera display on the camera menu or from the "Drift" file on the computer? I had some I could not see from the display menu but could from the "Drift" file when patched in. I learned as soon as I get back to the computer to patch in with the USB cord and from the "Drift" file in the directory then create new sub directory files for the clips to save them to. I name the files for the area or event or person. Then going through the Drift file from the directory on the computer I copy the files I want to save and move them to the new files I made. Then I rename and date them there and they stay put. At that point I delete all clips from the camera. You think the camera shots from the helmet looks fast, mount in down low on the crash bars and take a run through traffic. Looks like one of those crazy Russian UTube vids.

Or two DEKA AGM's

I guess I need to step up here and say thanks to each and everyone of you for what has been happening here today. I'm still sort of reeling from the responses to this post. Your words of support and well wishes has made my day a little lighter. I wish I could find the right words to express what I feel right now but I'm not sure I could do that as well as I need to. So for now all I can do is say thank you for everything. With all my heart, Mike

Did you have the forks fully compressed when you set the oil level? I never have installed the springs before getting the level right with forks compressed THEN let the forks extend and insert the springs. And opps..... take another look at the directions. Collasped and springs removed. That would cause the overflow. Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed

Yep, it's in a good spot. Mounted between the coils on the mounting bracket. When I had to get mine out the first time the screws were Phillips head. Rusted, corroded and had plans to stay where they were. I ended up pulling the battery and air box, removed all the mounting screws for the braket and got it turned around to remove the whole plate. It's been a few years since I did that so there might be more. I don't remember if I had the carbs still on the bike that time. I had to remove the TCI screws with a chizel. Changed them to Allen heads up from the bottom for future ease of replacement. Most guys just move it to the top of the battery.

Well I turned off the computer and rebooted, adjusted my screen, changed the font and found another pair of glasses. Still says the same thing. You got a 2nd gen. Didn't expect that. But I can understand and from the pics...... ya done alright. Nice looking scoot. Congrats Brian!!! I'll get used to it. I'll even keep the razzing down.

I don't think that's right. I send and receive funds through PP quite a bit and I simply transfer my PP account funds directly to my bank account. No fee has ever been charged for that.

WD-40 was designed for more for water dispersion than lubrication. Works great for drying out a wet distributor cap but not so hot for moving parts. It's based on fish oil if I remember right. So it does not have the tacky quality that would attract and hold dirt in a filter. Too thin and not the traits needed for filter prep. Now ya need to clean a wet or dirty connection, there ya go.

Must have just passed ya in the hallway. Just left there double checking the #. The floats in my '84 were shot when I got it. Took me a while to figure that out. They were so soft on the edges you could barely touch them with a fingernail and they would cut right in. The bike had been stored for 9 years so they had some issues. They would float.... for a while.... then start soaking up gas and sinking. You can see the cuts in the pic. I had a spare set and treated them with airplane dope and they worked fine but went ahead and replaced them with new anyway. No problems since. New is nice. New is comforting.

Like I said on the floats if needed the '85 V-Max is the same float. 1FK-14985-00-00 is the new number for the 26H-14985-00-00 used on the Venture carbs. All I got was a run around about them no longer being available for the Venture. Not quite true. Just had to look somewhere else.