Snaggletooth

I'll give it a shot. With the group having a closed page I can deal with that. Be a nice link to the club so I'll check it out. Raising my daughter I had my fill of the wide open social media thing. She's grown out that now. She'll kick my butt if shes sees FB on my phone. So off I go. Smart phones........... don't even have a dial! Ha!!

I've never been one to do the social media thing so I'm going to ask. On my smart phone, Android, is there something I need to do to direct a FB install download so it goes to the SD card. I got a lot of space to play with on the card, not so much in memory.

Well now ya tell me!!! Mine came in a box. A small box. With pieces missing. Some assembly required. But I like puzzles.

As you probably figured out, three mounting points on each side. Main pull bar at foot peg support bracket. Same as exhaust hanger. Will probably need longer bolts. Then the rear hanger bars attach at the same point as the luggage hanger bars and fender mounting point throught the rear subframe. Will need longer bolts. Watch your tire clearance. The short bars (anti sway if you will) off the main pull bar attach to the rear crash bars with 3 piece frame clamps to fit 1" bars, if they didn't come with the hitch. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/drag-specialties-universal-three-piece-frame-clamp-chrome-1-inch/part/DS-2404-0365 Don't forget to order a 5 to 4 wire convertor for your harness to get hooked up. Hook up both main pull bars first and then lift the hitch to line up the holes for the hanger bars. Insert those bolts then attach the frame clamps to the crash bars. If the hitch is straight everything should line up well. That should do it if you don't have the rear lightbar/bumper. Still the same, just a lil more wiggling. Hope that helps. Mike

This look like the set up you bought?

Having just spent a few days in the area of the middle gear cover and through the clutch slave I can say this. Don't think so. I think you're safe in that area.

Sounds like you have the basic suggestions for your project started already. The new upgrade ignition is a given rather than a gamble on a used one. As stated, it's a one year only item. Other newer year TCI's (some) will work to make it run, but not properly. I went though a bike stored inside for 9 years. Takes a bit to bring 'em back. Of course rebuiliding clutch, brake master cylinders and calipers along with completely flushing to new fluid is required. Remember the front brake lever is for the front right caliper only. The foot pedal controls both the rear brake and front left caliper through a linked system through a proportioning valve on the rear master. Bit of a trick to bleed but we can walk you through that when your ready. And eyeball those tires for date codes and inspect for rot or damage. Rather the waterpump gasket is just seeping or the drip is from the weep hole in the housing will tell you if the pump needs to be rebuilt. The '83 has a plastic impeller and most change that to the new models metal impeller during the rebuild. Oil leak at filter housing can be as simple as a bad o-ring on the cover to damage where it seats against the engine case. Some have upgraded to a spin-on oil filter adaptor, a bit pricey, but it's another opition to help with oil leaks there. If you are looking for a better windscreen, I can help with that. I have a used one off my '84 that is still in decent shape we can talk about if interested in a used one. Also have some water pump items that may be usefull if you find the need. Good luck with your project and Mike

I'd hate to have a day like that. It would have to be several days, minimum, maybe a few months. Miss being around the horses like I was in my younger days.

Here is another link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=76868

The white indicator would show that the headlight is out so I'd guess you have a poor connection or a pinched wire along the way. Are both low and high beams dim? I'm hoping Dingy pops in on this. He's got this headlight stuff figured out.

Yes it does. It was almost 1:00 am when I made my post and I did not read all the way through to the 3rd page (on my screen) where it went into more detail. The first screen referred to it as Lead/Acid instead of glass mat and that threw me. But as Condor mentioned, consider the USA made brands for better quality and over all performance. There have been posts about AutoZone I think it was with the relabeled batteries that were actually DEKA's. Prices were very competitive.

If all you want to do is change to the Progressives it's quite simple. Loosen the top pinch bolts on the upper tree and remove the top caps from the forks, slowly to bleed off any air pressure. Fish out the OEM spring spacers and springs. Drop in the new Progressives, set the preload with the new spacers, set the fork oil level and cap it back up. Tighten the pinch bolts back up and you're done. Of course you might want to bleed out the old oil and pump up the new but it's a pretty simple operation for a straight change out.

I don't know what your game plan is but I'm gonna share a quick story. I removed my OEM R/R and replaced it with an aftermarket unit. Little different mounting in the original position and a bit tighter fit. I had replaced the OEM exhaust with MAC turndowns just prior to that. So the the end results weren't pretty. I had it a bit too close to the pipes. Those little suckers deal with enough heat without the pipes adding to it. After that I installed the Shindengen in the fairing.

We gotta hook Peder up with a DEKA!!! These things go right out of the box sitting at least 12.7 volts and I've never seen one fresh from supplier at less then 95% charge. The DEKA's, as any quality AGM has the lowest discharge rate of any battery available. I've had them sit all winter and not drop over .20 of a volt without any tender or charge and that's with a 4 year old battery over several months. Not knocking your advice Peder, don't take me wrong. Batteries are always suspect. But with the DEKA AGM's, even right out of the box, in most cases it will provide more power than the bike has seen is a while. It's the DEKA AGM experience. They are a different animal. As far as the weak spark, compared to some we don't have the CRACK that many expect to get. It does to the eye look to be a mild blue spark. I don't know if you're comparing it to a previous test or a first time test. I have to ask how fresh are the plugs? When my '84 starts giving me static about starting I slap in a new set and it's good to go. With the correct gap and clean plugs it should be good.

Just to check, eyeball where the bead meets the rim to assure yourself the tire is seated completley and evenly all around the rim. I've run into a few where the tire didn't seat properly, but held air and they would shake like a dog. Check for any miss weights. A bad fork can affect that also. Very low oil level on one side with stock springs would add to the feel. Steering head bearings adjusted and lubed?

Glad he got in touch. I remember him talking about getting a boat then lost track of him. Good to hear he's still out there. Thanks for the update Don. Mike

I got to hand it to ya, if I had to make the change the Millenium would be the one to get me to change seats. Nice choice. Enjoy. And you know your MKII is going to a good home. Good deal all around.

Carl, just reading info from the link. Title says AGM, specs show L/A. Granted, same in the respect of the chemical effect used, but very different. It's to the point of where I'm suspicious of companies selling "off brand" AGM type batteries. So many places around will tell you AGM and Gel are the same or L/A and AGM are the same thng. Had a local auto supply shop tell me, when I requested an AGM that they would get it filled up and charged for me. I'm saying buyer be informed.

The link you posted says Lead/Acid. Same as OEM. 12 V18AH216 WattsLead Acid Nut and

Just for more information. Here is a link on the JBM install. Simpler? Maybe, but no going back once you start removing the retainers. http://www.jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html

Ah that's a shame. A lot of good times there chowing and swapping BS in the bar with the locals. Never had a bad meal, poor drink or met anybody that wasn't likeable there. They made it easy no doubt. $6.00 for a pitcher of Wild Turkey and (a little) Coke. LOL! I was always waiting for Garrison Keillor to come strolling in. Nice town. Mike

Oh heck, You're from St. Cloud!! The Ground Round still open? Spent a lot of years with ATS up there. yep, just checked my notes. Club price is $79.99 and $12.50 shipping.

Yes, but it's sort of indirect. I did contact Martin first to comfirm availablity. I was instructed to make the payment through PayPal directly for the club discount price. I set up a PP payment as personal and included the SD1X4 part number and description, my full name and mailing address. Then my club name with the VentureRider group. Set the total amount for the $92.49 USD. (shipping is included in that. $12.50 I think it was) To their PP addy: paypal@siriusconinc.com I got a comfirmation e-mail from one of the service gals same day and shipped the next. These folks have always been great to work with and never an issue with service. Just give yourself a manicure. Your thumbnails are your best tools for setting the edge between the retaining rings. Mike

Imbed a virus in this pic and title it "Flashing Friday" and send it to him. He'll open it.

I just did the OEM replacements from Sirius. I wanted to leave the slides undamaged as I understand with the JBM's you have to remove the plastic rings to install them. If you use the Sirius set, you can always replace them again. With the JBM set you would have to use only the JBMS's again because of removing the retaining ring. The install was slick and fairly quick using a bit of silicone spray. The Sirius SD1X4 set improved the starting, idle smoothness and performance so far. Take awhile to determine fuel use decrease. Fit was same as OEM. Total on Sirius set was $92.49 including shipping. My