Snaggletooth

Hi Squeeze. So the "jets" marked in blue, refered to as "bleed" jets and non removable and non replaceable if damaged then, correct. For future reference. Thanks Mike

Just this.

The oil level can be be set anywhere from 5 1/2" from the top of the tubes (with the fork fully collasped) to 7" from the top. It's all safe in that range. The Progressive instruction cover that pretty well. It's a matter of how you want the ride to feel. Make a "T" shaped gauge to set on the tops of the tubes and fill it up the level you chose. The recommended 13.5 oz. fork oil will take you pretty close to the 5 1/2" level with the Progressives. Toss the springs and the long metal spacers. As far as I can remember nobody ever wanted to put them back in.... ever! LOL! Hang on the the shaped washers from the old set up. One on each side to sit inside and on top of the new spring coils for the PVC spacers to sit on. Take care when cutting the PVC spacers so they are not sticking way out of the tops of the tubes. Too long and you will have problems getting the caps back in.

Yikes!! Kind of kills the joy of wearing my tin foil hat outside today.

It's a simple device. The bolt that retains the rotor has a hole through it. A shaped wire like heavy piano wire, fits through that hole loosely. The oil passes through the hole along the wire and as the motor spins the oil sprays onto the stator. Primitive, but it helps. The kit, if I remember right has a new bolt, the shaped wire and two thin metal disks that fit into the stator housing to contain the oil spray a bit. I found one years ago on eBay for $15.00. Turned out I didn't need it. The mod had already been done when I opened the cover. No way to know until you look.

Yep, you're addicted. And this only your first one right. You notice a lot of guys here use the word "Stable" a lot.

Wiring is quite simple to install the Shindegen. I'm looking for one of my threads on my install. I just built a new harness for the stator, R/R, battery and fuse as a separate system from all other wires. No change to the fuse block at all. Only the two wires + & - leads from the R/R need to connect to the battery posts (with a 30 amp mega fuse in line on the positive lead). And a spice from each stator lead. Pick a wire, any wire. Don't matter which one goes to what one. Mounted the R/R inside the fairing as the Mosfet don't need the air flow like an OEM. NOTE: You can forget about the five wires this way. The two reds, the two blacks and the brown. Cap them off and be done with it. Most aftermarkets R/R's don't use the brown wire anyway. The other 4 wires from the OEM harness are no longer doing anything as the old R/R was the only reason they were there anyway. Dead weight now. Just cap 'em and you're good.

Looks like you're up for a project. Certainly would be an improvement. The ones with the Hella Projectors are.

Now take a look at the tops of the risers where the controls mount onto them. You'll see a nut inside and there are two pinch bolts on each riser. Remove the nut, loosen the pinch and then you can slide the controls out to rotate them. Look at the connection point as there are small pins there that limit the rotation. They have to fit back in the groves to seat properly. Between the two adjustment points you should get them where you want them. Watch out for windscreen clearance and cable binding. You can smack it if you go too far. Mike

Did you try this number for the Pilot screw set. 12R-14105-00-00

Been down looking at my spare carbs. I have the larger jet with the screw head showing at the top. The other smaller jet is deeper seated into the body and I can not see that it is removable. No groove for a screwdriver nor any sign of threading. Our '84 & '91 appear to be the same construction but I have no info available on VMAX.

I'm digging here. I see the parts in the carb. I see them in the diagrams. I'm not sure I'm seeing the right thing or even under that name in the parts breakdown I have. I see the part# 14 3G2-14231-16-00 . JET, MAIN #80 (#80) in the throat as MAIN JET but I'm not seeing a Air Pilot #1 Jet in parts. Only in flow diagram.

Yep, the Air Pilot shows as part# 3G2-14231-34-00 (#170)

Ok, found the danged thing. Lens only: 7 3/8" Wide 5 3/8" High 4" Front of lens to rear of bulb mounting flange. (not the bulb plugs)

This one has been used by others. It's not a direct bolt-in but it will fit in the same area. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/42S.oap?keyword=electric+fuel+pump&pt=N0515&ppt=C0128 I have one on the shelf as a standby in case of failure.

"Shotgun Cleaning" is using high pressure to blow out a port, jet, fuel circuit, whatever is clogged. The idle circuit is the tough one to clean. Sea Foam or other cleaners have little to no effect as fuel does not move through that circuit, only air. I'm not a fan of "Shotgunning" from the outside of the carb on this because if there is ANY amount ot debris inside that recess for the adjustment screw, it's headed for the worst place it can go. Into the hole. Best to try to blow it OUT of the body.

I did. And I'm still looking. I've been packing things up and what was in one spot is now over here, or over there or .... maybe there. I haven't given up yet.

Why do I get the feeling you hang out with this guy. :rotf:

Can't blame the birds. Some will try to eat anything and some can't handle living in the city.

Plugged at that point is good on those. Yep. In the pic you'll see the bowl drain screw, the one on the right side with the arrow. Loosen that screw and that opens the flow from the bowls through the black line you're talking about. NOTE: Not a good time to suck on at line. If you get fuel from that line, you have fuel in the carb bowl. If not, your plugged at the float needle or behind it. Don't overtighten it when you close it.

Being where I am in Nebraska I can almost toss the Osprey out of the picture. Almost. With the Missouri river, and the larger local lakes including DeSoto Bend Refuge just across the river we do see a lot of birds not known to be native to the area. The Bald Eagle is the most common here along the river and are seen nesting quite often. But the bald does have the darker body. A younger one can be mistaken for a young Golden. Judging only by size and distance it may well have been a young eagle but the the Hawk seems most likely in the area. When they were looking for their missing cat the daughter told her mom that she saw it fly away with a big bird. Folks weren't buying that for a second. City folks ya know. I feel bad for the kid. At least she didn't understand it was a pickup for take out.

Nice try, but I'm not even in the pics.

I'll go with an informed opinion on this one. Back in November I was backing out of the garage and noticed something at the corner. Saw some movement and had the camera handy in the case in the handlebars so I tried to grab a pic or two but the distance is about 50 feet and only had a few seconds to get a pic. Wasn't quite sure what I was seeing but it looked like a bit of a dustup between the bird and another animal on the ground. Now, hawks are common around here, always around. But in November eagles are in the area also. This was a fairly good sized bird and the photos are not very clear. Any guess as what this might be? I paid this no mind until last night while talking to a neighbor and he brought up a story his young daughter had told him last fall about their missing cat. He thought she was full of it but I remembered the pics I took. Either way,..... it's quite possible his kids story is spot on. I go with hawk but the coloring has me wondering. So what you think? Hawk or a young eagle?

I've got one packed away in the garage somewhere. I can get the sizes later on. You looking for a replacement or looking at a project? Mike

No matter how many times I read what I posted I can't see where I condemed ALL aftermarket seals as bad. I mentioned ONE brand with a known problem with fit. There have been posts in the past with fit issues and install problems on fork seals so my statement was simple. Buyer be informed. I always prefer and recommend factory seals for high wear usage just as many other do. Always have.