oldandcrotchety

Oooooh, Gotcha! Yeah, spoked wheels for sure need the tube and rim strip. I misunderstood and thought you were referring to your venture. Sorry.

Tube and rim strip? Your bike don't have tubleless tires? Mine does.

Although it's no longer relevant, since he isn't going to buy it, the first thing I thought of was the muffler he said was damaged. If it was damaged enough to be partially stopped up, it could cause symptoms similar to what he described. At least on a car it will. I had a Chrysler that would start up and idle perfectly, but the more gas you gave it the worse it got until it died. Turns out the exhaust was almost stopped up with rust. Fixed that and it ran fine.

I don't know about your car in particular, but a lot of cars are programmed to have the light come on at certain mileage points where routine maintenance is scheduled. My last vehicle had the light come on 100,000 miles for the 100k maintenance and again at 130K 175k and 190k. When I got it there was more than 90,000 on it, so I don't know the intervals before that, and it went tits up shortly after the 190k light. I have a diagnostic tool that will turn it off for me.

Actually "Hokahey" translates roughly to: "Let's do it" or something similar according to native-languages.org

I, too, have recently contracted some type of sight problem. A few weeks ago my right eye developed a dark area in the center of my vision. It isn't blacked out but rather has a round area that is if covered by a sunshade. Very distracting. Hope it doesn't get any worse. I guess I need to find out if Fort Smith VA has an ophthalmologist but I'm betting that even if so, there wouldn't be much to do about it. Let us know what you find out about yours. And who knows, maybe your sight in that eye will come back. One day, about twenty years ago, I was working on a car in my shop when, without warning, I went totally blind. I took a few steps with my arms feeling around when just as suddenly it came back. Very strange. Of course about a year before that I had undergone brain surgery, so I figured it must have been something related to that. Anyway, I hate to hear that you, or anyone, has a vision loss, even if partial.

You can still get the complete master cylinder from "Flat Out Motorcycles" in Indianapolis for $193.53 (part # 3JT-2583V-00-00 (replaces 1NL-25850-50-00).

Still not completely topped off this morning. as the tender still shows red light instead of green. But it's getting there. 13.98v right now. When it does make it, I think I will trying Flyinfool's draw test and as a last resort maybe do the disconnect for a week or two. (Last resort because it will be hard to let the bike sit in such beautiful weather. 75° today) Anode connector? You must have missed the part about me being an electrical idiot.

I didn't jump it from another vehicle, I have a Snap-On Charger that has a Booster option. I suspect that the varying voltage readings were a result of the battery not being fully charged at the time. The voltage drop (from 12.85 down to 12.00 took about 20 minutes, but then it stopped dropping and stayed steady at 12.00.) What really surprised me was that while the bike was running, the voltage would drop from about 13.45 down to about 12.85 whenever I raised the rpms up to 2000-2500. I would have thought that the voltage would have stayed the same or even went up as the rpms went up. When I dropped back down to idle the volts went back up. I have another meter (a good Simpson) that I will compare with tomorrow when the battery should be topped off and see what I have.

I went down and jump started the bike and let it run for awhile with a meter on the battery. At first it would show about 13.45 with the bike idling and when I revved it up to 2000 rpm it would drop to 12.45 and pop right back to 13.45 when I let off the gas, but after a bit it wouldn't change much regardless of the rpm. So, after I let it run for awhile I killed it and watched the meter drop immediately to 12.85 and then slowly drop until it got to 12.00 even. It seemed like it wasn't going to drop anymore so I put the tender on it for the night. I'll see what I have in the morning. Like I said in the original post, I have had zero experience with these AGM batteries, and I'm a total idiot when it comes to electrics. Maybe the AGM type pulls down faster with the radio preset than what I'm used to. Once it is topped off, I will check the voltage regularly for a few days and see what it shows just sitting. I know the radio preset will use a little bit, but if it falls very much, then maybe I have leak in the electrics, but so far at least, it seems to have settled down at 12.00v and didn't drop anymore for about 20 minutes, and that was when I put the tender on it for the night. Maybe if the electrics are an issue I can use it as excuse to buy a new Honda CB1100.

Is that 1 year warranty pro-rated? If so, It wouldn't do me much good at 9 months. After return shipping I would likely be right about the cost of just buying another.

I guess it's possible that it has a short. The only thing that I can think of that would be drawing any power at all, would be the radio preset, but I know it's not drawing enough for that. I've had the bike about 7 or 8 years and never had the battery go down completely, even if I didn't put a tender on it at all. Winters here are pretty mild and about 6 weeks between rides is about the max. Most of the times I can ride at least a time or two each month, all winter long. The battery on the bike when I bought was a lead-acid type and I replaced it with another lead-acid, but this last fall I thought I would get a Dekka, so I wouldn't have to bother with topping off the cells periodically. This battery really impressed me with the power it had to crank over the motor. No more slow cranks when hot. But really....9 months and now it won't stay up? Well, I guess before I blame the battery I will take your suggestion and see if I can find a short.

I bought a Dekka battery last September after hearing some good things about them. I didn't see where anyone had had any trouble, so I'm a bit perplexed. The Last couple of times that I have gone out to the garage to take off on my bike, the battery has been near dead. It was about 6 weeks between those 2 times, but I've never had a battery go down in that about of time before. Do these need to have a tender on them all the time if sitting more than a short period? I usually rotate my tender between bikes during the dead of winter, but even so, it doesn't get very cold here, and my lawnmower battery will kick off the mower after sitting all winter long. This is my first AGM type battery, so I don't know anything about them. Maybe I did wrong by not having the tender on it all the time? Sure don't seem to want to hold a charge.

I replaced mine with a standard neoprene fuel line. Either 5/16 or 3/8. Don't remember, but the crooked offset wasn't enough to kink the hose. Been on there for 3 years now, no problem.