yamagrl

Moustache

Well, who'd a thunk it!

I have it. PM me and send your address and I'll get it in the mail.

Page 7-16 in 83-85 manual

Amazing Stuff! Star Tron is for preventing ethanol problems. We use it when an engine won't be run very often for a lengthy period. Our Vstar 650 didn't get rode much for over a year before we sold it. We added Star Tron to a full tank and it started with no hesitation EVERY time during that period. Amazing stuff. We get the marine formula that treats 96 gallons. That means it is quite a small amount when you're talking about a 4 gallon fillup so we mix it with a quart of mineral spirits and then use about a half an ounce per gallon. There is a lot of information about using mineral spirits as a fuel additive/cleaner. The marine formula is found in Walley's in Sporting Goods by the other boat stuff. It's about $9.00

​Yup!

I just went out to the shop and took a good look at a transmission from an 84. The overall travel required of the gears involved in shifting into 4th appears to be the longest lateral travel required in order to engage any gear. The condensed version is that it's a pretty lengthy throw. But the shift lever will still only move the standard amount. I'm certain the shift cam (drum) and the forks are engineered to accommodate this. But with a little wear it might be easy to "miss" fourth. Perhaps, as @Flyinfool says... a good positive shift may be all that's needed. The dogs on the side of 3rd that engage the dogs on the side of 4th are mildly under-cut, so as long as they get to a certain point they will be drawn together by the force. May the Force be with you. Maybe make certain that your shift linkage and all of that stuff is properly adjusted and lubed and functioning smoothly. YG

I use 1 oz of Berryman's per gallon in Big Red EVERY time I fill up since right after I got him in 2012. An old fellow and locally respected gearhead suggested it. He said he runs it in everything he owns from his ‘65 Mustang to his boats, everything with an engine. At first I was a bit apprehensive because of the contents. It has all kinds of things in it besides acetone. Methanol, isopropanol, toluene, MEK (that one right there is the really bad one... bad, bad, bad) I knew about MEK from working on aircraft. It has a few other things in it, too. But... If it's good enough for Mr. Bill, it's good enough for me. But, really and truly if you are using an oz per gallon you actually have a pretty minuscule amount of the individual solvents and they each perform a different chemical mechanism. Therefore, if the acetone or the MEK is (I'm guessing) less than 10% each then the concentration of each would be 1/10th ounce per 128 ounces of fuel or 1/1280 (1 part MEK - 1280 parts fuel)... Probably won't hurt anything. Now, if you soak the karbs in it or fill them up and let 'em soak for a lengthy period then it probably will eat some rubber. Not only does it keep the fuel system clean and moisture free but it also enhances the performance... kinda like adding alcohol... Go figure! As far as @jfman 's problem it does sound like clogged jets, etc and I concur with @flyday58 that disassembly and cleaning will probably do the trick. YG

Acid

Sept 5,6 &7 http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/live-feed/discovery-channel-sets-premiere-date-876604

But ya hafta doit ridin backwards or it won't wurk!

That is what you're looking for. That's #1 YICS connection. Number 4 is also easy to find. 2 and 3 are a bit harder to get to.

Sixty Six

The yics connections not the ones on the rubber carb boots. They are actually on the heads. They may have been capped off.

YICS Yamaha Induction Control System

I disconnected my anti-dives. I removed the lines to the calipers and put a 10 mm x 1.25 bolt where the line attached to the anti-dives with a new copper washer and then used a single banjo bolt on the caliper. When I redid the fork seals I removed the anti-dives from the lower tubes and flushed out both sides of the anti-dives (brake fluid side and fork oil side) and reinstalled them with new (matched up) o-rings. They have passages for the fork oil so even if you've disconnected them they still need to be there. I used about 2/3rds 10 wt fork oil and about 1/3 rd 15 wt. With new Progressives and a little heavier oil Big Red seems to be fine without the anti-dives and zero air pressure. Be wary about using too much preload. I have 1/2" in mine. I initially installed 1" but it caused the bike to wander and was nearly impossible to ride in a straight line at really slow speed.

Here's a YouTube on XVZ1200 fork seals. Parts 1 &2 (Below) Here's a fork seal write up by Freebird http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?496-Fork-Seal-Replacement For the upper fork tube cap use a 17 mm all-thread coupling nut http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?120721-17mm-hex-for-fork-tube-caps-2-00 I used 5/8" x 24 inches all-thread with 2 nuts jammed together on each end as the special tool to reach down into the tube. Mother Yam has a 24 mm special tool for that. Those nuts are 15/16 (pretty close to 24 mm) For a seal driver I used 2 pieces of PVC (cut down the side) and firmly clamped on to the upper fork tube. Clamp 'em on really tight and slam the lower and upper tubes together. The reason for using 2 pieces is that you can position them better so as to apply the force to the best position on the seal itself.

We have an 03 Roadie. It sounds good but I think our Vstar 1100 in spite of the overall size difference is superior engineering.

I doubt the valve adjustment will effect the popping much but never-the-less they may very well need adjustment. Even if you have holes in the slide diaphragms you would still likely get a decent sync. You would simply be compensating in your adjustment for the vacuum loss caused by the pin holes. The popping may be caused by your idle mixture. Try enriching it a bit. It may also be caused by the air cutoff/enrichment valve. That's the little diaphragm on on the side of each karb. Item 16. ​http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1983/XVZ12TDK/CARBURETOR/parts.html Here is an aftermarket from eBay but I do not have any experience with them. Remember each karb has one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-Carburetor-Air-Cut-Off-Valves-for-Yamaha-XVZ1200T-Venture-83-84-87-88-/311652844530?hash=item488ff503f2:g:E1gAAOSwRQlXgGi6&vxp=mtr Here's some from Sirius Consolidatedhttp://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=1089 Many of us have ordered slide diaphragms from Sirius. I have them in Big Red. Use a guitar pick to install them http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=1794

The 1st gen manuals and also The Vmax manuals were on the cd that Dingy enclosed with my Ignitech TCI. So if some one needs the Vmax manuals let me know. Maybe, when I have time I'll upload them all to my webserver and post a link.

I used the 2nd gen valve cover gaskets once and they were a little easier, but I didn't like the way they looked, so I immediately shaved off the excess, even the half moons... that was a bit tricky. I always say that if you like what you end up with you'll forget about what it took to get there. Heather

I agree totally. I printed mine out. It takes about 250 sheets printed both sides, clamped between 2 pieces of wood and drilled holes for binders. I even bring the appropriate printed manual with me when I go on the road. Some people just print the section they are working with at the time. I'm not sure about a "Dogeared book" but Puc might be able to point out a "Lop eared" one ! Easy Peasy That link I posted was from http://www.yamahaventure.nl/index.html It's a pretty nice site and the owners manuals are there, too. along with Dingy'g Diagrams. I think most of these are on our site in the "Read Only" section as well. They probably got some of this from our site. Here is Mk1 http://www.yamahaventure.nl/xvz-1200.html Here is Mk2 http://www.yamahaventure.nl/xvz-1300.html Here is Second Gen http://www.yamahaventure.nl/xvz-13tf.html ​Heather

Are you sure you are talking to Microsoft? Turn on the computer and when it gets to the point that you can't do anything then unplug it from the wall. Plug it back in and turn it on again and see what happens. I notice that you have an hotmail email. If that is the email that is associated with your computer and Microsoft account and you are able to receive that email such as on your phone or iPad then you're actually still signed in to your microsoft account on something.

Yammer, It's possible to sign into you account by going to any Microsoft site such as http://live.com You don't have to log in on your computer. Use the iPad. Then click "forgot my password" Are you sure you're putting in the correct email address? Can you get into your hotmail email? That should be the same password.

​Good for you!