yamagrl

The red wire is basically a straight shot to the battery from the r/r. The Black wire is a straight shot to the negative side of the battery with the only connector being on the smaller wire at the battery negative. This is the frame ground connector also but that doesn't matter right now because the r/r grounds directly to the battery through this connector and not to the frame. All of the connectors involved are circled. The blue arrow points to the red wire that branches off to the ignition switch, which further branches off to the radio to keep the presets, the clock and the emergency flasher. I doubt any of this would would effect charging. Remove and clean both battery terminals. Separate the connector on the smaller negative wire at the battery and clean it the best you can. Use sandpaper or a small file or emery board and put it back together. If ground is the problem this is where it will likely be. Also separate and clean the connector that is in the red wire coming from below the main fuse. 1. Set your idle up to 2500-3000 rpms. 2. Check the voltage cross the Red and Black wires at the r/r. 3. Then move your negative lead to the neg side of the battery and compare. Leave the negative lead here for subsequent readings 4. Next check the voltage at the connector (lower) side of the main fuse and compare. You should see a small drop here that can be attributed to the other things running in the electrical system such as the engine ignition, lights, cmu, etc. so have as much turned off as you can. 5. Then check voltage at the battery side of the fuse and compare. ​From here on the voltages should remain the same 6. Then check it across the battery. Make sure the connectors are clean, making good contact and not creating a voltage drop. There is also the possibility of resistance in one of those wires. Checking voltage at each of the places I laid out will help in making that determination. If you find a wire to be the problem it's no big deal. It'll be easy make proper bypasses. I can guided you through it. Heather ​

You're probly right but better safe than sorry.

Do you have a replacement mount or do you need one?

I like gettin' old... think I'll keep doin' it for a long time to come. After all... everybody does it. All you have to do is don't die for a really long time!

This the plug that everyone above is referring to. Those covers put force on those plugs to hold them in place. Do not run the engine with those covers off. The plugs will be blown out as the cooling system heats up and builds pressure.

Chrome is my favorite color!

Sometimes components actually go bad but more often it's related to connections. Sometimes it is wire connectors, sometimes it is ground connections and sometimes it is faulty solder joints such as the common issue with the Class and it seems like it's more often than not. This is actually "The silver lining inside the dark cloud" because it means that troubleshooting electrical gremlins is often simply a matter of tracing out the offending circuit and checking continuity.

Actually, that percentage may be a bit conservative.

I thought so. I woke up thinking about this one so I Googled "regulator rectifier overheating" and most of the results say to check the grounds and also to remove the r/r and make sure that mounting points on the frame are clean because some r/r's also ground to the frame. Determine if it grounds to the frame by unplugging the r/r and check for continuity from the respective pin and the housing. One of the Google results suggested adding an additional ground wire. But if there is problem with the system/frame ground then you need to correct that also... for reasons beyond this issue. The white wires need to have really good connections. On the 1st Gens some folks have eliminated the 3-wire connector and hardwired them. It is really important to have really great connections so be particularly mindful of your crimps if you cut the ground and add an additional ground wire. Check the voltage at the r/r across the red and black and then move the black multimeter lead to the battery and compare. Then check the voltage across the battery poles. Do it at about 2500-3000 rpms. You should get the highest reading with both leads at the r/r. The other two reading should be a little closer. A little volts drop is here is because of other electrical componets such as lights, ignition, etc. running. Time to load up and CTFW home.

I can follow circuits fairly well but I really don't know much about the R/R except that it limits the current to a usable voltage for a 12 volt system. Something has to happen to the unusable voltage that is blocked off. It is converted to heat. That's why the fins. Same kinda thing as the heat buildup in the load equalizer/resistor used when converting the turn signals to led lights. Can you tell if the melted wires were caused by the 3 white wires (current in from stator) or was the melting caused by the red and the black wires (current out to battery/electrical system)? Current created in the stator and is "pushed" to the R/R which kind of "chops it off at the knees" and what is left is then "pushed" along to the battery. Hence charging the battery. But now what happens to the current that was blocked? It is converted to heat. Therefore it stands to reason that if: 1. The white wires were the melted ones then the problem is most likely in the stator or those connections. Or 2. The Red and the Black wires are the melted ones then the problem is likely bad connection on that side. There is a condenser shown on the left side of my red circle. I'm not certain how it might effect it. I'm guessing the whites. Check those connectors on the R/R and the other 3-white-wire connector in my red circle. Perhaps the stator is too strong for the R/R. Was the stator and R/R purchased as a matched set? A call to Rick's might be one other thing to do. I'm chasing the front wheel about 450 today (Tues) So, I won't likely see this after I head out.

Spray PB Blaster in the stuck ones. That'll probly work. Avoid using sand paper or emory cloth to clean the pistons once you get them out. The clearance is so close that just lightly buffing the piston will make the surface rough enough to interfere with the enrichener piston sliding in the cylinder. I know because I buffed one on Big Red with 320 and it wouldn't hardly move after that. I don't recall if I had to get up to 1500 or maybe 2000 grit. But then again, that might be your solution.

Bite your tongue! Knock on wood! Take it back! Hurry! Take it back before someone gets jinxed!

Yep. The right bank has a simple rectangular bracket but left side bracket not only racks #2 to #1 but also provides cable guide.

That is the bracket for the left side. There is only one rectangular bracket and it goes on the left bank.

​It sounds like it may be a tad rich. A bit of choke/enrichment is normal for cold engine start but a too rich mixture will make cold starts easy without choke. Think about it...

Bumpkin

Good lookin' Skylark! Am I looking at the basis for your screen name? Heather

Cash, Kristopherson, Nelson, Haggard

I think this is what you need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-Yamaha-XVZ1300-XVZ-13-1300-Venture-choke-cable-cabel-bracket-carb-carburetor-/311621467205?hash=item488e163c45:m:mP7olVkzNGq45M-ogfMXQkQ&vxp=mtr

Yamagrl might make some up too.. PM her.

​Since it's your bike just write yourself a check. That oughta fix that not gettin paid problem!

Hmm... whatta concept...

Check out these connectors for the electrical system main positive and main ground. The 4 awg battery cable are gunna be "Plug n Play" for real! I'm waiting on some of the lugs to arrive. The supplier accidentally sent the wrong lugs and they have reshipped the correct ones. They are supposed to arrive on Thursday. But that's ok 'cuz I'm chasing Big Red's front tire for the next few days anyhow.

PB Blaster works really well for this kind of thing.