yamagrl

Actually, I originally snuck that in as a joke. I had no idea it would turn out to be true. I was really pouring over the diagrams and scratching muh head. I was really befuddled and bamboozled! I been keepin' an eye on you "back of the classroom guys"!

It would be interesting to read it if you can find it and post a link

PB Blaster is really good stuff. It never ceases to amaze me how effective it is.

​Like I said...

I haven't listed the cables on the Member Vendors forum yet because I haven't done the Installation Instructions and Tech Article yet (due to my overloaded work schedule). But, if anyone needs them before they are listed in Member Vendors just PM me.

​Pi

I think if you something hooked up backwards you would observe some very strange symptoms. The horn would suck, the radio would listen and the lights would cast shadows!

I really have devoted a lot of energy, time and expense to design a really good set of battery cables. I've ordered and tried various tools, supplies and methods. I've returned supplies that I didn't like and finally arrived at what what I believe is excellent indeed. I plan on on being at @van avery's SE Texas Maintenance Day n the weekend of Oct 15th. I'll take a set with me so I'm certain that someone there will be able to post some comments about them. YG

Br/W should not be hot with the switch off. That of course could be caused by bad switch or a short.

Hey Guys, may I chime in here... I think Bob may be onto something. As I read through the thread and looked at the Wiring Diagram and the Simplified Diagram I kept coming back to maybe something going haywire in the Master Control Unit. I have no clue as to the relationship of the starting circuit to the radio via the L/W. From a strictly conceptual stand point ...looking at the screenshot of the simplified it seems like when the start switch is bumped something in the MCU is improperly energized and remains so until the current is interrupted. That doesn't seem right. The R/G is always hot but is supposed to have a very limited function, at least when the key is off. When the starter switch is tapped the L/W energizes something in there causing the radio to get power from the R/G. It kinda has to be. Because the Br/W is the main power from the Audio fuse and is only hot when the key is ON or on ACC. it would be interesting to see what happens if another MCU were plugged in. YG

It's kind of hard to match some of this stuff up. I haven't found the magic bullet yet, but then I haven't really only looked for the ones on the battery cables. I think I've seen various release tools on all of these sites. Digikey has a great online chat. Easternbeaver has a lot of bike specific stuff. You might wanna look there first. http://www.digikey.com/en http://terminalsupplyco.com/ http://www.easternbeaver.com/ Side note: Been slammed at work and haven't had time to install cables on Big Red and write the Tech article about making the cables and installing them. I feel strongly that accurate installation instructions be part of the package.

You can probably order what you want here. https://www.homeofthedragon.com/collections/accessories/accessories_patches

Pickle

Everything in the rebuild kit is the same except for the needle valve and seat. It can be used but you have to replace both halves of the "needle valve and seat" The seat is replaced by removing the plug on the outside top of the carb body. If you replace it you should also replace the filter screen in there also. Here is the breakdown for 1986 Items 38, 39,40 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/XVZ13DS/CARBURETOR/parts.html Here is a pic from this post by @Prairiehammer about replacing the seat and removing the plug. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96821-Carb-Trouble&p=890733#post890733

They will be $59us plus shipping

You got it! There are also a couple more sets that are already spoken for.

Coming soon... These battery/starter cable upgrade will be available in a few days (I'm busy, slammed at work) They will be available on the Member Vendors forum as soon as I have the time to do the write up. I plan to install a set on Big Red and do a Tech Article on how to install them as well as how to make them yourself if you so chose. I recently upgraded the cables on Big Red which why I decided to do this. But these cables are hands down far superior to the ones I installed on Big Red last month. So I'm going to go ahead and do it again. Nothing but the best for my Big Red! 4 AWG Welding cable Tin plated copper lugs/terminals Plug-n-Play OEM style quick disconnects on the system positive lead and system/frame ground lead 90⁰ terminal on positive battery lead Slim heavy duty lugs on lower ends for ease of pulling through the motorcycle Additional Positive and Negative/Ground leads for your personal use such as horns or lights. Adhesive lined 3-1 Polyolefin heat shrink. Marine grade Ten ton hydraulic crimp backed up with solder/tinning on open ends This will be a limited production. I have enough supplies for about a dozen sets total. After that I have no idea whether or not I will do another run. In order to be relatively cost effective I have to order in significant quantities and so demand will dictate future production. Check em out.

It just dawned on me the White wire must be part of the signal cancellation.

Glad it wasn't any worse. Knock on wood! Did you have one of the deer warning whistle things attached? YG

I think the flashing of headlight and the passing lights are due to voltage drop caused by the root problem and not likely a real symptom. What I find most telling is the left dash indicator flashing with the right signal and the speedo going crazy. I have a theory... but it's only a theory... There is a common link between the flashers, speedo, speed sensor, igniter, radio and cruise. It is the white wire (green arrow) coming from the flasher relay. I do not yet understand it's purpose but it sure looks like a malfunction on that circuit could create a plethora of problems that the correlation would be difficult to recognize. Look at the attached screenshots and PDFs I have attached. I have highlighted and placed colored arrows on both the screenshots and the PDFs. You may have to "Save" the PDFs in order to view them. Probably the best way to troubleshoot this is to simply plug in new components which you probably don't have. So the next best thing is probably to unplug the Hazard Relay and bypass it by jumpering the Br wire to the Br/R wire. The Br wire (red arrow) going into he Hazard Relay is the power for the signals it originates at the fuse. The Br/R wire (blue arrow) comes from the Hazard Relay and supplies power to the Flasher Relay. This will bypass the Hazard Flasher and route power to the Flasher Relay. If the root problem is somehow caused by the hazard flasher or within this area isolating it may stop the problem. If it does then you know what to do. If not then it still could be related to that white wire. Like I said... "It's a theory" Flasher Highlighted 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Simplified Circuit Diagram .pdf Flasher highlighted 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram .pdf Looking at the wiring diagram it appears that there are only 2 ground points. They are: The big negative cable that attaches to the engine. This is the starter negative and doesn't really come into play here. The other wire that connects to the battery negative which is likely a 12 awg. This is also the frame ground. All other oem system grounds connect to this black wire not the big cable. I doubt the frame ground point itself would cause your issue but if you can locate it go ahead and clean it. I do not know where it is on the 2Gen but you can look in the manual under "Cable Routing" Pg 2-38. This cable routing diagram shows 2 "Ground Bolts" items 3 and 5. It shows the locations on the diagram. I am attaching a screenshot.

Take it as a compliment... Ten grand for a virtually new 1984 VR... sign me up!

Hey Bob, Do you want to sell it?

That looks like the way to go!

Here's one. Under 30 dollars. I've had good luck with K&L kits. http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-85-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-1200-K-L-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-REBUILD-KIT-32-4146-/400718167201?hash=item5d4ca9fca1:g:2UsAAOxycgVTh1a5&vxp=mtr

I think this might be the best suggestion yet. A Partnership is like a marriage only more complex.