yamagrl

Actually I didn't notice a political reference... I was laughing my @$$ off when I posted it. I had no idea how prophetic it actually is. It was not and still is not my intention to post anything political. I have previously referenced "Rule Number Two". My apologies to anyone who may not have understood. Again... I edited the post with a shortened video. Heather

'nuff said... ​

Actually, I never had TCI issues. Big Red ran like a scalded dog with the either original TCI or the Ignitech. I just felt that if the oem was actually working that there was no reason to change. I could only notice subtle performance differences between the two. I did install the Ignitech, used it for several hundred miles upload the newest program update. One of the big advantages the Ignitech has is program-ability. I'm certain for those who are adding performance mod like cops, TBI, Vmax heads, cams, etc. the Ignitech would be a huge plus. I have been aware and also mindful of the age of the motorcycle and availability of key components and I really didn't want to get caught with my pants down, especially far from home. I figured it was better have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. Kinda like insurance. I didn't want to need one and find out that the supply dried up. Sometimes there's no substitute for fore-thought. For me I have always viewed my love for the Venture as a good fortune in that I didn't have to spend 15, 20, 30,000 dollars for a machine of this caliber. So pre-spending was never an issue. I do however recognize that I am fortunate in this regard and that not all of our "Sisters and Brothers in Ventureland" are.

​You got it!

I have one that I bought during Dingy's group buy complete with map sensor and programming files. I bought it as a back up for Big Red but never really used it. I paid 265 for it during the group buy. I'll take 2 for it. Heather

All good things gotta come to an end And it's the same with the wildwood weed... Jim Stafford

Did you try a flasher designed for LEDs? ​

I believe your problem lies within the flasher. The LEDs don't draw enough load to make proper flashing. But you may have gotten lucky... After reviewing the 83 Wiring schematic it appears the the 83 has a stand alone flasher relay. cowpuc or Venturous Randy or one of the of the other notorious 83 riders might know if the the 83 flasher relay is a stand alone. The subsequent model years have an integrated Flasher-relay/Canceling relay/Starting Circuit cutoff relay. There may be other issues as well, but I think the LED flasher might be a good place to start. I'd be interested to see if the LED Flasher helps. You might be able to just swap out the relay to one designed for LEDs http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-CF13-EP34-Car-Flasher-Relay-to-Fix-LED-Light-Hyper-Blink-Flash-or-No-Flash-/161193691684?hash=item2587e48a24:g:SkcAAOxyXDhSi-t4&vxp=mtr

Riding a motorcycle is like Conducting a Symphony. Hope you heal fast

Cool! If you want to borrow my carbtune let me know. I also have 4 new caps/plugs that hold the float needle valve in place.

Yes. I replied to your email.

I think I'd start troubleshooting like this... Left front (#2) seems to be the problem child. First, lets determine if the fault is ignition or something else. I presume that by now you have the left side fairings off. If not then it's probably a good thing to do about now. You will need a "known good" TCI, spark plug and wire. If you are not certain about any of those components don't worry, I have all of them. Next, we're going to flip-flop the #2 & #1 coils. This is no big deal... just switch out the coil wires on the coils. Don't mess with the spark plug ends. Now swap the 2-wire connectors going to the coils... just unplug them and plug them in to the other coil. Now the coil that used to power the #2 plug is rerouted to the #1 cylinder and the #1 coil now powers the #2 cylinder. If the problem is the ignition coil then the rear cylinder (#1) will become the problem child. If the coil is the bad... I have one. Frankly, I would not mess with the carbs anymore, at all until I have done the above swap/test.

I have a Morgan Carbtune and a near complete 86 parts bike and even offer assistance... that is if you don't mind having a "girl wrench" help out.

You can still find lava lamps on ebay, but I don't think it would help you with this unless of course you...

I think it's the middle gear cover that has to be removed to get the slave out. I still think I'd determine what is causing the leak before starting to fix things. Finding oil leaks does not have to be difficult. Clean it up, run it a little and take a look. You can also get ultra-violet/fluorescent dye designed to go into the oil. Then you can look for it with UV lamp. ...just sayin'...

It looks to me like the heaviest concentration is around the drain plug. Nothing around the filter and not much close to the pan bolts. Before disturbing the pan bolts why not clean it really good... spray Purple Power or something similar on it, rinse it with a strong water spray and then keep an eye on it. maybe just lay a good sized mirror on the floor under it so you can get a good look by just walking by.

​How is Gunner doing?

Yep

I've seen some really good results with their Rusty metal primer, especially the brush grade. I use Rustoleum Aluminum (brush grade more often than aerosol) for the silver/grey on Yamahas in areas like the TripTree on Vstars and also First Gen engine. If you keep at it you can actually brush out the brush marks. It will also stop rust and adhesion is great. I guess the aluminum grounds out the galvanic action, changes the polarity or something... works. But it takes forever to stir the aluminum from the bottom of the can. If it's been sitting for a while I'll turn the can over periodically.

I'm also wondering if the exhaust is plugged. Make sure you have good exhaust flow. These old exhaust chambers (collector) and mufflers can can come apart inside and I'm sure could cause a restriction.

Temp and volts go through the 9 pin connector in the dash. And the tach goes through the 4 pin connector. There may be other things that are effected

I think I'll go to beach tomorrow. Can't get my cast wet though.

Call Rustoleum. They are pretty good about answering. In my work I use a number of their products; Cabot, Rustoleum, etc. and have called. The 800 number is on their website and I think on the can. Many paint products will say something like "recoat within a certain time frame such as after 4 hour but before 24 hours or else wait until completely cured" Those numbers vary and not all products have those kind of instructions. Usually, if you adhere to the label instructions and not think it out too much you will have successful result.

Unlikely. I told the insurance company that I was not going to recover the MC and I have paperwork to go in FedEx tomorrow. If someone wants it they need to do the deal by 8am tomorrow or it will be too late Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Point well taken... my apologies.