yamagrl

This is what I used. Same seller 4 kits free shipping $86.25 http://www.ebay.com/itm/4X-86-07-VMAX-CARB-KITS-83-93-XVZ13-VENTURE-VENTURE-ROYALE-18-2879-carburetor-/361517049733?hash=item542c186785:g:EU0AAOSw8w1YBTYO&vxp=mtr

Back at ya!

Who'lda thunk it!

“It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends on his not understanding it.” ― Upton Sinclair, I, Candidate for Governor: And How I Got Licked

We can it's called "Veterans Choice" Must live 40 miles from VA Health Facility or have longer than 30 day wait. http://www.va.gov/opa/choiceact/

I think I'd still stick new thrust washer in anyway. YG

See if I got this right? 1000k = 1,000,000 miles. That's a reasonable annual limit.

I never have inquired.

Florida Antique Tags at 30. I put one on Big Red December 2013.

Dingy's ad for spanner http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showcat.php?cat=20

The rectifier would not likely cause the differing test light results based on the key position because the Red wire going to the R/R is an "ALWAYS HOT" wire.

You mentioned that you have a battery on order. Make sure to have a good battery that will hold a charge and then we can start to troubleshoot/trace out circuits.

When they say "You're OK" or "You're fine" I say "If you think I'm fine now, you shoulda seen me 20 years ago! I was hot!" Another one is the server asking "What are you drinking?" when you first get there. I generally look around and with a dumb-founded expression reply "Nothing. I just came in. Will you please bring me an unsweet tea?" I have been known to say "Problem? is there a question that it might have been a problem?" Occasionally someone will say "My Pleasure" or "¡ El gusto es mio!" . I usually make it a a point to acknowledge their pleasant response

Thanks Bob. I totally missed that obvious first step. Must've been a senior moment. I was ass-u-ming... you know what that means!

It sounds like a short to ground. Remove all of the fuses from the fuse block. You probably still have the original glass fuses. There will be 5 of them. This will isolate the entire electrical system except the few items that do not route through the fuse block... Class, Emergency flasher Turn key to on and test across the Battery Posts. Note the result. It should be similar to the result in ACC. Reinsert ONE fuse, (any one), turn key to ON and test across the Battery Posts and note the result. Remove that fuse and repeat with each fuse. This should help determine the circuit and tell us where look. YG

Where exactly do you have power in Acc and where do you not have power in the on position? Add a bit of clarity for me and and I'll look over the diagrams for you. It shouldn't be too hard to figure it out. YG

Ya gotta admit.. It's a real pain to have to text when you're flying a motorcycle about 80 on a two lane. ...I have done things that are bit more pain-staking... but not much!

Here is a Google Drive link to the 88-89 DU Wiring Diagrams Complete PDF. It has the Wiring, the Simplified and the Starting Circuits all in one. The PDF is a lot clearer than the screen shot below. Here's the Starting Circuit Diagrams for your MC. They will shed a bunch of light of light on your issue. Heather

This is how I usually do it.

I think most would agree that bleeding the clutch is the hardest part. But it's really not that bad to change the slave. I only briefly looked for a thread on changing 2nd Gen clutch slave but didn't run onto one right away. I'm sure there's some good ones. There is however, one on the 1st Gen in the Read Only section. You will also need the gasket for the middle cover cover which has to be removed in order to get the slave out. Item 14 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2009/ROYAL+STAR+VENTURE+-+XVZ13TFYR/CRANKCASE+COVER+1/parts.html I suggest taking the slave apart after you get it out so that you can determine that it was in fact seized. It's easier to work on that side of the bike if it's upright and to a more comfortable height. If you have a MC jack that would do it. It seems like everything is always closer to the floor. Heather

This is what I think also.

Don't spend a lot of time on bleeding right now. You have likely determined that it is not related to the master or the lines. That means that the next likely thing is the slave and you'll have to bleed after messing with that.

@Formerfuzz Are you going to SE Texas MD at van avery 's next weekend 10-15 in Sweeny, TX? Even if you don't have it fixed yet someone can show you how. SE Texas MD

If the master seems to be working properly, you get fluid flow and builds pressure then the cause is likely "South". There's not much south of there... just the rest of the slave, the push rod (goes through the engine to the clutch), and the clutch itself. The slave seems like it might be the next thing to check out. The slave is fairly simple and consists only of the body, the piston, a spring and a couple of seals. It's not so much that it's hard to change but it is a little tricky to finagle the thing out of and into the limited space where it goes. Be sure to use a hand impact driver to loosen the two mounting screws that hold the slave on. They can become a problem if you strip out the screw heads. If you don't already have a hand impact you can get one from Harbor Freight for about 8 dollars. Just don't try to out-smart those two screws. They are allen head. If your allen driver spins in the screw you can mushroom it back in by placing a 3/8" extension against the screw head and whacking it smartly with a hammer. I'm more familiar with 1st Gens but they're basically the same. You should be getting some tips from 2nd Genners. When it comes time to bleed it here is what @Condor posted to me about reverse bleeding. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?112034-help!-Need-help-on-bleeding-clutch-line&p=941392#post941392 Here is a "Read Only" on reverse bleeding. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10517-Reverse-Brake-Bleeding Here's the parts breakdown http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2009/ROYAL+STAR+VENTURE+-+XVZ13TFYR/CLUTCH/parts.html

Crack open the bleed screw on the slave and squeese the clutch lever. (Be sure to put a hose on the bleed screw to prevent fluid from making a mess). This will tell you whether to look "North" or "South" of the bleed screw. (Also, be sure to not allow the fluid level to be depleted and do not allow air to be introduced through the bleed screw) If the lever moves properly then the master and lines are not likely the cause and the problem is either related to the slave or to the clutch itself. This how I often troubleshoot electrical issues. Find a mid-point and determine in which direction the problem lies. Toubleshooting hydraulics/plumbing issues and electrical issues are similar in that "something" is being sent though "something" YG