Adavidson56304

Just put a new front tire on and noticed a little oil on one fork, pulled up the boot and it was full of oil, so I'll be replacing my seals now. I want to have all needed parts in order before I start. I need the oil seals, and upper and lower bushings? Anything else that should be done? Where's a good(cheap) place to order them from? Thanks all and good luck on your projects Aaron

Old thread, but maybe someone can help. I milled my spacer to roughly .857. The wheel spins freely, but the heads of the rotor bolts drag on the cover on the right side. If I shim the spacer with a washer, it will hold the cover off so it does not drag. But, that is just like I used the original spacer. What should I do? Thanks Aaron Mn

I've got some rotor covers on the way. Can someone tell me the specs of the spacer I need please? Thanks Aaron

Does anyone know if rotor covers from a mk1 will fit a mk2? Thanks

It is a bi-xenon. The first couple times I thought I was seeing things, but after trying it in the pitch dark, it is indeed turning off for a second. My first thought was the hi lo switch. I will take that apart and clean it and see if that makes a difference. Thanks Aaron

When I switch from high beam to low beam, sometimes the light turns off for a quick second then turns back on. Anyone ever had or heard of this problem? Ideas? Thanks Aaron

Here's what I put in. http://bit.ly/UMYGAK They are great, hopefully they last a while. I suggest not putting one in for the high beam, it is almost blinding at night. I have to go back in to switch it back to a regular bulb, or one that's not as bright.

I guess I'm not too worried about the legality of it. I've had this modulator for awhile, never had a photo sensor with it. Just looking to put in a switch, its easy to see if its on when dark out, so just looking for a way to turn it off and still use the lights.

I have put my headlight modulator onto one of my driving lights. I would like to install a switch to switch between the modulator during the day and straight power at night. What type of switch would I need or what's the easiest way to do this? Thanks Aaron MN

I had the 55w driving lights on my bike but went to LEDs, similar to what someone posted above. They are brighter than the halogens and save power. My gauge would drop at all stops before and now it barely budges. I've only had them on a couple months so I don't know the life span. I couldn't find any waterproof so I siliconed around anywhere that looked like water could get in. They cost about $20 a piece, but if they last a year, they'll be worth it for when I turn on my heated grips and gear.

Thanks guys! I'm just used to turning the signal off by myself. What I'm not used to is turning it on two or three times to make one turn. I would feel safer without it. But I'll have to try it. I do like having cruise.

I think some people call that a fender helmet. Could search that on eBay.

So I'm going led all over my bike. When I install led blinkers, will this work for the electronic flasher? http://bit.ly/11qAfuF One thing I want is to disable the self cancel. As I understand, a new flasher and LEDs will disable it? Also, I've got my dash apart, I just soldered up the cms for putting in a hid headlight. I'll lube the speedo, along with replacing all bulbs with led. Is there anything else I should do while in there? Thanks all Aaron

Got it all back together and finally the rain let up so I can ride. I had my brother in law weld it for me, he's a welder so I figured he could do a better job. The bike runs great still and doesn't sound like its going to blow up. Thanks for the help. Aaron

Anyone have a write up of what to do for the computer bypass for putting in a hid headlight? I'm sure the headlight if self explanatory, but how do you trick the computer so it doesn't think the bulb is burnt out? I'm sure there is a post somewhere about it, but I couldn't find one. There are some 55w HID lights out there. Would I need to bypass if I used one of these? Thanks Aaron

Thanks, I'll let you know how mine goes. I'm looking forward to a welding project.

I looked at it some more and saw the caliper was not centered. I was not sure about what was going on here, after calling skydoc, we figured out the spacer on the rear axel was on the wrong side of the bracket, causing the caliper to be offset, and it was hitting the buttons.(the po had replaced the tire shortly before I bought it) I moved the spacer and found an e clip to fit on the button that was really loose and now it works great. Thanks

Thanks a lot. That second one is sort of what I had pictured in my head. I played with it for a while, and found it was two broken pieces. One was smaller and I was able to twist and bend it enough with a long needle nose to get it out. The other is bigger, I tried the same thing but pretty much bent it into a big ball that's bigger than the holes, so it won't come out. I guess I'll be performing surgery soon.

So finally the snow is gone and I put on a couple hundred miles on Sunday. Monday, went out to jump on and heard a rattle. At first I thought it was an engine knock, but after some investigation, it is the exhaust collector. Some pieces broke of on the inside and are rattling around. So after a while and some swearing, I have the exhaust pulled. The broken pieces are too big to pull out of a hole. Now what? Should I just start looking for another collector? Or, could I cut a bigger hole in the bottom, pull out the pieces and weld it back together? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Aaron MN

So I finally got to ride my bike today and when I use the rear brake, there was a clicking coming from the rear. After some investigation, it seems to be coming from the rotor. It is the floating type and one of the spacers that holds it on is loose. When that area of the rotor passes through the caliper, it clicks. Does anyone know if that spacer is replaceable and how to do it? Thanks Aaron

So I took a look at the elbow from the water pump to the thermostat that often gets a cut from the crash bars. Of course it has a small nick in it. It's not deep, but I'd like to do something about it. I don't really want to pull the water pump to replace it, I'm sure it would create some new problems for me. Has anyone fixed theirs without having to replace it? Some type of epoxy or something? If I do have to replace it, what other parts should I have ready? Thanks Aaron

Yeah, you'll need a relay with a compressor. I found out the hard way when I installed an air horn and burnt up the switch.

On my class controller, the mount swivels to see the coolant jug. I'm missing the button to lock this down. Anyone?

I know there's a few on eBay, most are in poor condition though. I was searching for that one a little while back. I did finally find one in good shape so I have my old one if you really need something. It's not in great shape, but it does hold the cb and class in place. Let me know and I could send you some pictures if you want.

We just got a fresh layer of snow too, it's not looking good for riding soon. But, that gives me plenty of time to finish up these winter projects I never did. I'll probably go with the Sirius diaphragms. Thanks guys. Have any of you replaced the air cut off valves in the carbs? How would you know if they need to be replaced? Can you do it with the carbs on the bike? Aaron