Rosie1965

Dingy, you are correct. I have run out of threads. Could someone tell me the length of the correct bolts? Also, are these supposed to be a shoulder bolt that fits snug in the arm or do they just rely on pulling the caliper tight to the arm?

I figured I would reopen this thread to pose my new question so I wouldn't have to re-explain my situation. I got my MKII rotor installed finally (Thanks Earl!) but have a question on caliper bolts. To sum up, my bike had an MKI rotor on the back with spacers installed between caliper arm and caliper to make it "fit". I haven't yet applied any pressure to rear brakes but the caliper is able to wiggle around with the bolts tight. The play is where the bolts go through the arm. I looked on the service manual but couldn't see anything I'm missing. Is the caliper supposed to float and I just need to get the pads to make contact with the rotor or should the caliper be snug with the arm? Any help is appreciated.

I ordered the SB8125L from Amazon for my Venture and the SB8125L-L from the V4 market for my Magna. They were the exact same thing other than the ones from the V4 market cost less and came with the rubber caps. They don't seem too long.

I used the SB8125L-L, works for all calipers and clutch slave. http://www.v4market.com/Brakes-Speed-Bleeder-pair_p_45.html

Can't hardly go wrong in that area. Days worth of beautiful riding.

Our American Family agent offers a classic car plan that costs less than full coverage. Have to get an appraisal for value.

I don't remember the exact year the Vmax final drive was but I know it was mid 90's. I used skydoc's alignment procedure and all is well. Have put several thousand miles on it.

Some do, some don't. I had to use two of skydoc's shims on mine.

Be careful, I've seen people on other bikes lose side covers because of their good intentions.

Ed, Welcome to the site. Looks like you got a heck of a deal. I bought my VR from a guy in Lincoln, not far from you. You will fall in love with that bike when you get it going right. Head east to the Loess hills scenic byway when you do, great ride.

I a little bit of whine when letting off the throttle is normal even when all is well. If it's a loud whine then you probably have a final drive issue. The other whine could be your tires, tire noise isn't a brand specific kind of thing. How old are the tires? If they have any real age to them I recommend getting new ones. Obviously you enjoy riding the bike now that you've had a chance to see how it is, ride with peace of mind knowing you have good tires.

Does the Venture switch to ground for the fan? If so you would need a constant 12v to the LED and the ground would need hooked up to the fan ground.

When you hold the clutch in and it operates as it should are you sitting still or moving?

My bike has both the super brace and the boots. It was there when I bought it so I can't say how it was done, but it must be feasible.

Maybe with an optional trailer and roof rack.

Kind of the same concept as the baggershield but with angle options. Baggershield doesn't offer anything for the first generation bikes.

Actually with shipping and the exchange rate it was $168. Yes it's expensive but hopefully worthwhile.

I will try to get my wife on before I shorten the shield and see what she thinks. Normally she only complains when there's a cross wind.

I went and bought this, don't have much feedback since I haven't cut my shield down yet. I installed to the stock windshield just to see how it would work. It's a quality piece, has a quality price too. On the stock shield it extends the height by 6" and not an issue with visibility since I'm looking through the shield way below it. I didn't try riding where I was looking through both of them. With the provided clamp mount I can still see under it in the full down position. Not sure how much I want to cut off of shield. If I cut off 4", in the full down position it will only be the equivalent of 2" with the clamp mount. But in full up will be like adding 2" to the stock shield and giving me a 2" gap to look through. This also comes with a bolt on kit where the windshield needs drilled, could be mounted lower that way eliminating the 2" gap in the full up position. Will update when I get the guts to cut my shield down. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/X-screen/shield4.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/X-screen/shield3.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/X-screen/shield2.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/X-screen/shield1.jpg

I'm not well versed in writing tutorials or a diary for that matter. I can give a quick summary of what I did as covered in the previous couple pages of this thread. I purchased 4 coils from I believe a 2006 Hayabusa, purchased these connectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/Connector-Set-CBR-GSXR-Hayabusa-for-Denso-Pencil-Coils-/231113332117?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf6d9595&vxp=mtr, and some 18 gauge automotive wire from WalMart. I used all the same color of wire and marked my negatives, you may want to use 2 different colors. The coil connectors all share the same positive, on mine they were red with a white tracer. Each coil has it's own color wire for negative. I switched one at a time to avoid mixing anything up. I spliced and soldered then heat shrinked my 18 gauge wire to the connectors I cut off my original coils. I then fed my wires through the sheathing that had originally encased the high tension coils down to the new coils. I assembled the weather tight connectors to the end of my wires. You could use solderless spade connectors (the small ones) but I didn't want to take chances with moisture. I read from several people that polarity is important at the coil connection. I was in no position to argue so I didn't try different connections. Looking in the coil the positive would be on your left, I guess it's universal. See Dingy's pic. After getting everything hooked up and sealed up, I fired it right up. It's been working great, just put another 280 miles on her yesterday. Word of caution. If you do this mod without adding resistors and are running the pre 90 TCI, you take a chance of cooking your TCI. I have a 90 and I have had no problems, but this is no guarantee it will work for you.

That's correct. I soldered and heat shrinked my wires to the original connectors, fed them through the protective coating that the high tension wires were in, then connected at the coils with these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Connector-Set-CBR-GSXR-Hayabusa-for-Denso-Pencil-Coils-/231113332117?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf6d9595&vxp=mtr

The negative to each coil is a different color, the positive are all the same color.

The Busa coils I used measure about 5 1/4" so the plug is just above the heat shield. How long are the CBR coils? Just remember if you don't have the Ignitec TCI, your older analog TCI will need resistors due to the lower resistance of the COPs. Tons of info on the links Dingy posted, lots of reading.

The COP system is working great, have put about 1,200 miles on bike since the install with no problems. I haven't really noticed any improvements to starting or performance, but I wasn't having any issues with those before the install. I have the 4 brush starter and Dingy's upgraded cables, the bike fires almost immediately. Other than having to use the choke, it starts just as easy as the 2013 CB. I did accomplish eliminating the tick from the radio. That was either a stock coil issue or high tension wire issue, both eliminated. If someone is having problems with stock coils or is looking at new high tension wires, this is an easy upgrade.

I have used the 3M headlight kit on headlights with amazing results. I've often wondered whether or not it would work on a windshield. On headlights the first step is really scary as you remove the protective coating and are then at the point of no return. On the first gen I would be surprised if anyone still has the original hard coating, that stuff will come off with tape.