saddlebum

All though there is much wisdom in starting with a lighter bike the fact is there are also differences. In most cases when a lighter biker starts to go over on you, its possible to stop it. Getting into that habit is just what you do not want to do with a heavier bike. So chances are he would still have tried to stop the bike from going over. Main thing a lesson was learned without major injury. We have all been there.

I had similar issues and found my steering head bearings were adjusted too tight. Once I readjusted them too a point of zero lash without being tight the bike handled curves like it was on rails and the high speed wobble I had went away. As much as too loose is bad too tight is also bad. If the head is too tight the front wheel cannot make proper use of the caster angle built into the steering geometry.

Congratulations you too .......Hey you need any help carrying your luggage

I always get E-flyer's from Lee Valley and today this was in it. Looks like it could be handy for those screws with damaged heads that screwdrivers no longer work on. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43411,43422&p=71703

Very sorry you had to have this happen to you but so glad it was not worse.

Growing up my father used to always say to me " Son there are few people in this world as perfect as you and me ....and I still have my doubt's about you"

How about this "You have reached the smartest point in your life when you realize how much you don't know rather than how much you think you know."

I know how you feel Don and I feel your pain. I had to do the same for our Bichon Charlie three days ago and it is not looking so well for my Airedale Jake who has been my sidekick and friend for the past 12 years.

I remember looking forward to watching almost everyone of those while growing up. Still do see the occasional ones on TV and still enjoy them like I was still a kid ...... wait a minute I am still a kid

Glad to hear you were able to ride again. Keep up the exercises as well. Very important to keep that knee moving.

You think maybe if he opens the choke and holds the throttle wide open while cranking it over he will un-flood it

Yup that's them ....They are the ones who grabbed me and held me captive over night, when I was trying to make it home from the international. Fortunately I was able to escape the following morning.

I had an issue with #2 not firing. Remove the battery and battery box. Pull the connectors from the TCI and clean all the terminals with emery cloth and penetrating oil. Once that is done flush it with contact cleaner. While your at it clean the connectors going to the coils and the one going to the stator as well. My bike has run like a dream since I did all that and I was about to replace the TCI. Also if you have the OEM plug boots unscrew the brass contact inside and carefull drop out the little spring and tiny round cylinder that is behind the screw. Make sure they are clean and OK.

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We would have to put a drag chute on the 1st gen just so we could get all three in one picture.

I just googled the camp site and google maps puts it right smack in the water. Please tell me it isn't so. My tent is good but not so good as it will float on water. Water bed anyone. And NOOOO TRAINS ;;;;; PLEASE NOOO TRAINS

Easy there cowboy --- We haven't even got our colour (color for you Americans) ride in yet, so relax you still got time to get them tractors ready.

I think you should go ahead and buy it. Then start taking orders for 1st gen parts. You can always build me a few free parts while you learning

Wow Jonas!!! Hard to believe a second gen could look so out of this world fantastic. You did an Amazing job

Fantastic job Bob. Having gone through much the same, from write off to restoration I can totally acknowledge the feeling of accomplishment and pride you must have.

Actually would that not fall under the brand name of Can Am. Now that would open up a few doors Can Am T'N'T , Can Am MX, Can Am ASE, Can Am Qualifier, Oh yeh and Can Am Spyder

Left hand drill bits are good if things get to moving easily but you cannot wiggle back and forth on a stubborn screw or bolt with them. very important when trying to loosen something up. Also very hard to remove if they break in the hole because you cannot drill them out. At work I have seen many techs get in trouble that way. Easy outs I no longer own. I discovered many years ago when I was stuck with no easy out but happen to have a set of torx bits on hand that torx bits out perform easy outs in many ways. You can drive one into a drilled hole (slightly smaller than the Torx bit) remove it heat and quickly cool a seized bolt to help break it loose. then drive it back into the pre-made splines and wiggle the offending bolt back and forth until it breaks loose. The key is to grind the end of the bit perfectly flat so it cuts not wedges into the drilled hole and if you slightly counter bore the drilled hole just enough to keep the bit centered while tapping it into smaller hole it works like a charm. Plus the tapping helps to break the threads loose. I have even reused allen head bolts that have rounded out by tapping oversized Torx bits into the allen hole turning the screw into a torx screw.

The wide cellophane packaging tape was of tremendous help in temporarily holding pieces together during the bonding process. The plastex does not stick to it so it is also great for backing while filling holes and cracks from the opposite side. if you want to smooth out the plastex with your finger wrap some of the tape over your finger first. It smooths out the plastex real nice and no plastex sticks to your finger. The plastex also sands out beautifully so no spot putty is needed. You can add plastex at any time and sand until you have a flawless surface ready for paint.

Check out post #15 in the following thread http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28291 I am a strong believer in Plastex or also carried by aircraftspruce under the name plastifix. I rebuilt my bike in 2008 with the stuff after the insurance company wrote it off. I found it beneficial to inlay fiberglass tape used by drywaller's or just plain fiberglass to reinforce my repairs or formed tabs. all is still holding well to this day and I have put on 41,000 Km (25,000 mi) since then

Now look who brings up the nasty words ......and you had the audacity to point a finger at me