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I had ordered a set of tires for the Durango. They were directional type tread. I had the shop that does the work I cant or wont do mount them. So when I picked it up for whatever reason I looked at the tires and yup you guessed it they were not mounted correctly for they position.

So what about making a filler for the drop down and put a "normal" type battery in. If your vehicle wont run after a jump tells me one of possibly 2 things. Alternator is no good or battery is dead short. Now they say new cars with all the computer stuff its not good to run without a battery in it.

Cash is King. Look it over and then wave a stack of 20s. Looks good to me if I was in the market for one.

Had a couple T-top cars. Never again. They leak,rattle, squeak and if you decide to take out for more air flow they never seem to do the job. But if you like it cool. The only difference in those years of trucks I think revolves around the hood and grill. Pretty sure the 66 had single headlight and turn signals in hood. Coil spring rear suspension. Actually the rear suspension is what current NASCAR rear suspensions are designed off of, only with a Ford 9 inch installed.

There has been discussion on this among us running the Mr Gasket pump. Far as I know none of the folks I have talked with have had an issue with flooding out while sitting. If your worried about it turn the petcock off.

Looks rite. Contact seller and see what output press is.

I have been thinking about some luggage rails or whatever you call them. The specific made ones for the RSV are hard to find and when you do they want mucho denero. Will some from something else fit with minimal tinkering? I think I was looking some over from tsaku or whatever. They were only around 65 bucks.

Once they get plugs all replaced and fired up, if they are still thinking plugged exhaust its kind of best to check it out one section at a time. Like just before muffler, right after cat then right before cat. Bad part is, as old as this car is chances of getting the exhaust apart without a air chisel is going to be hard. Could be a collapsed exhaust pipe. On the plug ordeal, I have a spark plug socket that has like a nut made on it so I can use a box end wrench. Sometimes thats better leverage than trying to get wigglers and stuff on there. Also have used a hole saw on the inner fender well to shoot the socket, extension thru to get a better shot at it.

I would say probably not. While Im ok with mine and it rides well, I think its to top heavy. Hind site being 20/20 I would probably go with a Victory Cross bike. The drive train on the RSV is bullitproof and very spaceous people space wise. But get it 2 up and gear loaded it can be a scary 1000# beast. And that just aint fun or a good time.

You may be able build a by pass. But from what I have been told and read the early TD igniton switch is not wired like the 2nd gen and late td. The late model bikes all the power goes thru the switch. I make a plug and play unit for the 99 up RSV and I think its the 05 up TD. I know the later model switches you can take apart and clean the contacts. Price one out and see what you think.

Well our long awaited trip up to the NC mountains is finally here. Now if the weather will just cooperate. but so far that dont look great either. 30-50% and up on rain all week. Should be in Blue ridge Ga tomorrow around noon, then over to Sapphire. A few day trips from there if WX is OK. Sevierville and hopefully a ride on cherohala.

Man, even if you had them just taped in place you could have got by. LOL

Mike I think your kinda at where your at mileage wise. you can probably pick a little up with new plugs and an air filter/tune up and some sea foam. It is a throttle body injected engine right? Or is it direct injected. With the weight of the truck and the smaller engine I think it just has to work that hard. This site I just looked at gave the average for your vehicle that most folks have reported is around 14-15. I think realistically your doing OK, even though you think its killing you. My wife since she started her job last year drives a lot. The old durango 4wd has a 4.7 v8 and around town I'm lucky she gets 12 maybe 13 mpg. Traveling she gets maybe 16, I can squeak 18. but something newer would cost me probably 18k or more. On the mog front it might gain me 3-5 mpg. My thoughts are I know what I have now, I know what maintenance has been done and @ 18k I can buy almost 5500 gallons of gas. Even if you buy say a 2012 or 13 truck of similar size, I would bet you look the milage up and you might see 19-21 highway. Like I said before least expensive way to get highway milage out of it is gearing. Go taller and it wont wind as hard. kind of like the V-max rearend deal.

Yea I Was thinking that also as a possibility. Are these earlier year ones the key down by the seat or something? I can fix the newer ones like on the RSV. Well sort of.

Me thinks its Experienced Rider Course. but yea folks thats rode before. I'm thinking I really need to go back to a brush up course. I haven't been since I was teaching it like 30 yr ago.

I'm not real familiar with the earlier version of the TD. But I know on the later ones that look like the RSV there is a main 30 amp fuse under the left floorboard, by the starter solenoid. As mentioned they are terrible about corrosion being they are mounted where all the road gunk gets splashed around. If you have lights etc and no starter you might try jumping the solenoid with a screw stick or something to get the starter to engage. http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/FuseBoxLocations.jpg http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/solenoid.jpg

Shoot with a new set of points in one I think you could guarantee one for six months. Even though you know its going to fail, it shouldn't be in six months.

Like Steve said. Look it over before committing to buy a new one. Some of these have little "tic" switches on them to change patterns. So say it use to flash 5 times and come one full. By moving a switch or 2 it may flash 7 times come on steady flash 2 more and then steady. The place where it is now may just be "burned out" Its free to check and may save some gas money.

Well the bad thing for the rebuild/repair one thing would be you have to charge the guy a core charge. And enough shipping to cover it. So if a new pump is $130 or whatever, your probably in for another $20 shipping. If you sell for $75 + 20 shipping and add in the core charge Oh My!! Unless the fellow would send you the broken one first.

I had it happen to me. I just gave it a slight squeze on the end to make it oblong by end. Not enough to distort it the length, just enough to make friction. Then I put some red lock tight on it and tapped it back in. No leaks.

Puc your right. The old drive by vacuum gauge still works. I had an "economy gauge" years ago and basically all it was, is a vacuum gauge with red and green range marks to help you see where the higher vacuum was. More vacum= more mpg. Easy on the take off better mpg. http://images.jcwstatics.com/is/image/Autos/GRP-garbo54469_is?$JCW_MAIN$

LOL gotcha. Ya I'm kind of the same way here in Fla. If its in the central part of the state and looks like it can get me from one side to the other I have probably been on it.

I would say Chaffee Ny to Louisiana is a good test ride. If you have rode an RSV in the past then I dont know as you really need a test ride. You kind of know what your in for. But I have to agree with Barry on the Kawai. I was pretty set on buying a Voyager. Then I read up on the heat issues. They still really have not got them sorted out and its been like 5yr. You might also look through Cycle Trader for "NOS" bikes.

If I remember my days in the shop at the Dodge dealer the 3.7 like the 4.7 is a coil on Plug set up, no distributer when was the last set of plugs put in. Good place to start. Clean air filter for sure helps. Weather you go with one from autozone or a K&N. At this juncture I think I would go with the $10 OEM replacement type. Depending on how the air intake is set up you may gain a little by letting it get cold air. Highway milage you can gain some by decreasing the gear ratio. Least expensive way to do this is tire size, go with something tall. but if you have to pull a trailer with it your killing that end of the truck because it wont have enough guts to start off. 15 mpg aint terrible on that little engine in that big truck. My 96 3/4 ton cummins gets about 21 mpg last I checked if I keep it around 65, @ 70 its about 19 and goes down hill from there. But its 3.55 gear with stick shift. when I bought it it was a 4.11 and 72 mph was tops. That Had to go. LOL So Plugs, new air filter and ........... Sea Foam!!!!! Seriously sea foam or the Berrymans B12 or other injector cleaners once a month help the 4.7 in my wifes durango. She gets about 12-13 around town and best I ever got on highway was 18