Prairiehammer

There should have been spring lock washers under the screw head. Were there? There should also have been an oil baffle plate. Was there? Adding a flat washer to space the screw head out should work, provided the additional screw head projection does not interfere with anything. I have a good page 3-52, but it does not address the stator or the torque values for the stator mounting screws. There is no specific torque value for the stator mounting screws. In a Technical Service Bulletin, Yamaha says to use Loctite and tighten the screws with hand impact driver.

The front master cylinder bore changed in 1986 when the MKII brake calipers (four pistons) were adopted. The MKI (two piston caliper) front brake master cylinder are all ½". So anyone that wants the MKII brake calipers on their MKI should consider, in addition to swapping front forks to accomodate the MKII calipers (or R1/R6 calipers), swapping the front brake master cylinder from the MKII onto their newly updated MKI brake system, even if you don't delink.

Try adding more air to the suspension. This will raise the bike, making the lean, while on the sidestand more pronounced and allow you to get it onto the centerstand much more easily.

Patch, did you download this schematic? http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/90-93%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DA%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf On the reed switch, you can desolder the coil and reed switch and solder in a jumper to replace the reed switch. Regarding the fuse block replacement: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?66650-Upgraded-and-updated-Fuse-block%28s%29

Jim, I assume, since you picture one from eBay, that you have searched there? If you fail to find one on VentureRider, and if by chance you missed these on eBay, here are two more: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-1300-XVZ1300-89-Intercom-Radio-Cables-/261612034603?hash=item3ce94ada2b&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-Yamaha-XVZ1200-XVZ-1200-Venture-Royale-Y429-cb-radio-wire-cable-/291399798642?hash=item43d8c80f72&vxp=mtr

Apparently you haven't downloaded @dingy very clear schematics. Here:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993 I downloaded, saved to my computer and then printed the schematics on a wide format printer. The resulting 13" x 19" color prints were then laminated. Hmm, I should sell them on the Classifieds here...

I see new aftermarket petcocks for the 1983 Venture on eBay pretty cheap. If you don't mind losing the reserve, you could put one of those on. Many of us run on RES(erve), even when the petcock has the option of RUN, OFF and RES. All the First Gen petcocks will interchange and bolt on (get a new gasket), although all the First Gen petcocks are not the same in function and construction. First Gen petcocks are 26H-24500, 41R-24500, 1NL-24500 or 3JJ-24500. Take your pick. Just be aware that if you go with the 26H, that you will not have reserve, just ON or OFF. And the fuel exits from the rear of the petcock instead of the left side, as in your bike. Depending on the fuel line condition, you may have to re-pipe from the petcock to the fuel filter. The 26H-24500 petcock was used on about 90-100 Yamahas. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-24500-00-00.html OR, You could use your existing damaged petcock without issue and if you are concerned about debris passing through the torn screen on the reserve standpipe, don't use the reserve.

What are your symptoms? It appears the Reed Switch (RS3) has a FUBARed coil. The coil when operated normally creates an electromagnetic field; that electromagnetic field opens or closes the reed switch. I think RS3 controls the tail light. IOW, it senses when the tailight bulb(s) are burned out and sends a signal to the CMS to warn you.

THANK YOU, BJ! Yours is the first 1983 Canadian Standard (31H) to be entered in the database. The VIN is completely different from any other North American Ventures. The European VIN are similar, except those begin with '47G', but like yours, there is no year code or check digit. I wonder if that is unique to the Maritimes? You guys are closer to Europe. The headstock stamp on the frame actually has '000399' twice? Interesting. Made my day! (I know, I know, I'm a little anal and weird.)

I respectfully disagree. Firstly, 60,000 miles is nothing for these Ventures. Secondly, $500 is what a non running, stripped Venture is worth. Depending on condition and completeness, I would estimate the 1986's to be worth at least $2500 and the 1990 about $3000. Again, it depends on condition, but the stated mileage is not a factor.

Do you like to color? Do you have a First Gen? Here is something to occupy your rainy days. Download, print and color. You can see what your Venture might look like in different colors. Have Fun! and post your results. My 1991 Tuxedo is an example.

Are you saying that the dealer will take $3000 for all three ($1000 per bike)? Or wants $3000 for each?

Haven't had the slow-down for a week and already repainting it? Hmm. Some peeps have more money than me.

If she is 94, I am 17.

When I had keys made for the saddlebag latches and ignition switch I purchased on eBay without keys, the locksmith told me that the key he made would work in the saddlebag latches but not in the ignition. I didn't care, because all I wanted was lockable saddlebag latches (I'm installing them on my trailer). Also, on my 1991, I have a spare key (ILCO) courtesy of the PO, and it opens the trunk and the saddlebags just fine, but when I tried it in the ignition, I have to push the tip of the key to the six o'clock position in order to turn the ignition. I don't know why this is so, but I am getting an 'official' Yamaha blank and having the dealer cut it.

No spark? Too many things to list that could contribute to that problem. TCI, any of the interlocks, 'tip over' switch, ignition switch, ignition fuse holder/fuse/connections, any wiring related to the previous items, etc, etc. And being electrical in nature, intermittent connectivity could be an issue. Having said that, IF it ran on Saturday, then you know it is salvageable. Did you witness the running or was that the seller's claim? I say: Buy it, then pay $12 to join here as a supporting member and take advantage of all the expertise and technical information available.

While I don't have a solution, I do know your anguish. Every morning as I enjoy my coffee ...while Debbie is 'prepping' ...in the bathroom ...where I am enjoying my coffee ...I watch as she plucks her fifty something chin hairs (fifty something YEAR OLD hairs, not fifty something chin hairs). I suggested that she start shaving, instead of plucking. She glared at me (with my full beard of thirty five years) and mutters things like: "What do YOU know about shaving?" or sumtin. The trouble she has started to experience is that she can't SEE well enough up close to grab that chin hair(s). So, guess who has the honors? I cook, I grocery shop, I clean, I tend the garden, I mow the grass, etc. Now, I have to pluck her chin hairs, too! I have to carry the WHOLE load.

Even a starter clutch in good condition will make the clanging noise if the battery voltage to the starter motor is too low. Consider that the starter clutch is a one way sprag unit with spring loaded rollers that are forced against a 'race' on the 76 tooth gear; when engine rpm exceeds starter input rpm, centrifugal force causes the rollers to disengage. The erratic re-engagement of the rollers causes the awful sounding noise. A slow starter rpm allows the rollers to disengage when the engine 'hits' then re-engage when the engine slows, then disengage when the starter spins too slowly, ad nauseum. The rollers on the starter clutch can also become gummed up on a long unused machine, with the resultant erratic action (noise). It is not uncommon for one or two rollers to be slow to 'roll' and so do not wedge. The springs that push the rollers also become fatigued and so do not always force the rollers into the wedge. If the springs are weak, the centrifugal force may be too great too soon and the rollers disengage before the engine is running. The broken sprag is also common.

Pete, how did you get the float valve seats out? The float valve seats have to be pressed out from the float chamber, pushing the staked plug out of the carb body as you press the seat out.

That $83 gets you FOUR carb kits; only $20.75 each carb.

Yamaha offered these "Accent Panels, crankcase" in the VentureLine accessories catalog. I've noted that they sell on eBay from $5 up to $80. There is currently a pair (two separate auctions) where the seller is wanting $20 each. They are not in good condition nor are they complete. If you buy any accent panels, make sure they are complete. The left side panel requires a bracket with spacers and longer bolts to be installed onto the middle gear.

Keep at it Pat. Hope we helped get the 'Might Mouse' on the road and under your butt at speed. Perhaps your project needs another 'companion'? Pearl Sweetheart is available...just for the MM.

O. M. G. Where the heck have you been, Steve? Missed you...

I use one of these...in my nose...on my ears...um, wherever needed...can't have the young chicks looking at ME funny... I try to control the facial hair, whether it be nose, ear, head or beard. Like this.

Would this be Sky Blue Pink? Nah! Not Pink enough for @yammer.