Prairiehammer

Rod, Does riding the First Gen cause you pain? If not, measure the pull back, rise and spread of its bars (the location of the grips in relation to your shoulders), then find that same location on the RSV and determine the optimum pull back, rise and spread from the handlebar clamp. Using that information, start shopping for 1" bars that match the desired dimensions. Use the adjustable bars of the First Gen as a test mule to find what position works for you. BTW, I think (not sure) any 1" handlebar can be adapted to the RSV. And since 1" handlebars are the norm for the Harleys, there are all kinds of configurations available.

I do believe Cowpuc will jump all over that gear. It would be a perfect match for him and Tweeks.

NOW! You tell me. We rode all the way across Indiana on US6 and passed only 7.5 miles from you, Darrin.

Most all CB antennae are coiled somewhere. Unless you have a 102 inch whip. So if we were to unwind a Venture front spring, who knows, it might by 102 inches long.

With the exception, that I used an aggressive, but very sharp jigsaw blade made by Bosch that has "Japanese" saw type teeth with a fairly wide kerf. I used my Bosch jigsaw set at a fairly slow speed and masking tape to protect the windshield from possible scratching by the jigsaw foot. High speed blade action with a narrow kerf jigsaw runs the risk of melting and closing off the kerf with a resulting binding of the blade. If the blade of the jigsaw binds in the kerf, then blade breakage or windshield breakage can occur. Cutting plastic is very similar to cutting a hard wood. One wants to remove as much waste material as possible in as short of time as practically possible. This removes the hot "chip" (and the heat caused by friction) from the body of the object before the material can burn (or melt). When I say "aggressive" I do not mean an cheap, ordinary, coarse, cross cutting wood blade that will potentially chip, crack and vibrate the plastic. I used the Bosch T101D, 6 TPI, with ground teeth. I used a Sharpie pen inserted into a crude carpenters scribe or compass to follow the original top profile. Cut to the line and smoothed the resulting edge with sandpaper.

For whatever reason, Yamaha made the STANDARD Venture shock with an internal spring (similar to the Second Gen) and the Royale with the external spring. One presumption I have is that the Royale being heavier had to have a spring (with more capacity) that would not fit within the shock body. Contrary to many comments over the years here, the rubber booted shock on the 1983-1985 Standard does indeed have a spring, it is just not visible since it is inside the shock housing. Rick Butler Shock Diagram.PDF

That's the way I would have done it initially and only THEN fiddled with the wiring as desired. Why did you do it the way you did? Did you not have the adapter harness from Dingy? You could have just unplugged the old TCI and used the OEM connectors to connnect to Dingy's harness adapter and then just cut and extended the OEM coil primary wires to the COPs, utilizing the original yellow coil primary connectors to plug into the COP.

You will be "good to go" as you say (no danger of running with too low of oil level in the crankcase), but even with a filter change, the crankcase will be too full. Yamaha's specification is 3.7 US quarts with oil filter replacement. That extra .3 quart will put the oil completely covering the window and probably blowing into the air cleaner.

Damn straight!

Will one be able to adjust the SWR with a 17mm hex socket? Perhaps we can use one of my old springs as a CB antennae...IF you bring the proper 17mm tool to remove my old springs.

I will bring a SWR meter. Does anyone know how to adjust the SWR?

And YET, and yet, with my very limited storage and hauling capabilities, I was able to remember AND BRING your very special deer killing apparatus components. Some on here, of the very recent late, have espoused their gratitude in flowery and "Timothy Leary-esque" ways. But, NO, not the 'Fool. You know, don't you, that I COULD have taken the Sno-Man with me back to Illinoistan, never to be seen again. ( @cowpuc : that Sno-Man was actually the real and powerful Sno-Puper Machine!)

Scott, You need to find some new meds. The ones you are currently taking are having an hallucinatory effect upon your weeping/leaking/hemorrhaging grey matter.

Hannigan is still making the fairing for the First Gen Venture? Cool! Here is a pic for those who have never seen the Hannigan fairing .

My 1991 has the same affliction. The brake reservoir light sometimes comes on, sometimes goes off. Most of the time it is off, but occasionally it is on. The brake fluid level icon that pops up on the CMS is monitoring BOTH brake fluid reservoirs; front and rear reservoirs each have the float with a magnetic reed switch. When mine was displayed, I jumpered the rear reservoir float switch wiring (white/black and black wires) and the icon did not extinguish. I jumpered the front reservoir reed switch (white/black and black wires behind the headlight) and the CMS "low brake fluid" icon did not extinguish. Each of the "float switches" (reed switches) are normally closed and open if the magnet within the float passes below the reed switch within the post that the float moves up and down on. When the float slips low enough the reed switch opens, causing the low brake fluid icon to light. Jumpering the pertinent wires should extinguish the icon with no regard for the actual float position. If the icon does not extinguish with both reservoir switch wires jumpered, then the problem lies in the CMS. It will probably be an intermittent connectivity caused by a bad solder joint in the CMS. It may also be caused by an intermittent connection between the reservoir switch and the CMS, but my experience has shown that there is no other connection between the reservoir float switches and the CMS except the ones you should jumper to diagnose the problem.

And ANOTHER thing... You promised to help me change the springs on my '91. But, you always seemed to be gone when I wanted to get into the Maintenance que. And I'll be damned if I was gonna let that @Squidley guy touch my bike. So, I didn't get the job done. And the @Flyinfool never let me touch his 17mm tool. He said "No Dice, not until the Spyder Canuck Carl Bearded One" was there to protect his investment. I got no respect. None.

Thanks, Tooch. Yes, I was disappointed that I was not able to have another Canuck language lesson. Sorry to hear of YOUR mishap, but glad to see you can still type.

Carl, Carl, Carl. We have met before, two years ago. I had the same name and face then, too.

You missed the 1130 to 0230 "Ron Chat" Marathon?

Glad you are both lucky and smart. Lucky to have to move out of that lane and smart to decide to hang it up for the night. Did the brake act up on the way home?

I figure with all the wrecking that has been going on these days that I should let everyone know that I made it home safely Monday evening, after spending an excruciatingly long extra day with Don and @Squidley. (I have never been so glad to see that Indiana welcome sign. Good riddens OHIO.

Ron just wanted to be able to TALK them truckers out of their money. We all know he is capable of it.

Columbus, OHIO? I'm telling you folks, it is an OHIO thing, all this wrecking.

Indeed. As we ( @rbig1 and I) were trekking back across the prairie, we saw nothing but flooding creeks and lakes in fields. We commented to each other how smart we were to stay Sunday with Don and Eileen. We actually rode in some SUNSHINE. Rather chilly at first. Then we got out of that God forsaken state of OHIO, and it became a rather nice ride. Such is the advantages of retired life, right Rodney?