Prairiehammer

Buddy Armstrong @buddy with number 000208 and Kim, @Kroc have the oldest Ventures on this site (that I am aware of) with 000240. Both January 1983.

I suspect the gooey, crinkly stuff in the tank is the residue remaining after the gasoline evaporated, ie, "varnish". I would start with the safest solvent first. Perhaps undiluted SeaFoam? Or a bucket of 'dip' or 'soak' type carburetor cleaner, ie, Berrymans. Some mechanical agitation with chains, nuts, bolts, etc and shaking and tumbling will probably be in order as well. Never tried this, but perhaps a steam cleaner would work? Or a high pressure hot water washer with a caustic detergent? Or consider getting a better condition tank on eBay.

Yes.

Here a couple pics that show where the float bowl drain lines are as well as the float bowl drain valve. Also a pic that shows the fuel level gage mark on the side of the carb body. Attach a clear hose to the drain line, open the float bowl drain valve and observe the fuel level in the clear tube. The fuel level should be 14mm ± 0.5mm (according to the 1983 Yamaha Service Manual) below the mark on the carb body.

There a couple of master cylinder assemblies (including the reservoir) for the MKII on eBay. The MKII reservoir will work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Yamaha-XVZ13-Venture-Royale-XVZ-1300-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-S011231-17B-/141584647223?hash=item20f71a4437&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-1986-Yamaha-XVZ13-Venture-Royale-1300-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-SXVZ13-17B-/111575584357?hash=item19fa6c4e65&vxp=mtr Not cheap, but free shipping and you get a spare master cylinder and reservoir hose and reservoir float switch.

One issue with a non-Venture rear brake reservoir is the proximity to the rear exhaust headers. I suspect that the OEM Venture reservoir is metal for that reason. Most anything will work as a reservoir for the brake fluid, but most non-Venture reservoirs are plastic and might distort or even melt.

I can't help you as to the size of that O-ring, but here is a pic of a disassembled 1983 '26H' petcock. The '41R' (since superseded by the '3JJ') petcock on your 1984 may be similar. Of course, make sure your fuel tank is empty before disassembling the petcock! The 1984 41R: This MIGHT be the O-ring you require: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FUEL-VALVE-PETCOCK-GASKET-LEVER-SEAL-YFP350-YFS200-YFA1-XVZ1300-XVZ12-/360924277737 Here is a complete used 1984 petcock: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ12-D-fruel-shut-off-fuel-petcock-/201323851491?hash=item2edfd62ee3&vxp=mtr

The fuel pump is an "on demand" pump. If the float bowls are full, the pump will not run, until there is a demand for fuel (fuel being consumed from carb float bowl).

I am going to say, yes, but only because when comparing mounting brackets intended for each version, the brackets appear to bolt onto the frame in the same locations and configuration. The actual footboards are different in appearance, but that probably shouldn't change the mounts. Do you know the brand of the heel/toe floor boards? VentureLine? MC Enterprises? Markland?

Thank you Phil.

Great write up, Carl! However, the parts requirements should be modified. If the new style segment 4NK-18185-00-00 is used, then the Plate, Side 1 cannot be used in conjunction with the new segment. Also, there is no need to order a new Plate, stopper. It does not require replacement to use the new style segment. Most importantly, though, is the requirement for new dowel pins. The old style dowel pins are too long to fit into the new style segment. One will need to order five short pins (93604-12037-00) and one long pin (93604-16092-00), or one could cut down the old dowel pins, I suppose. These new dowel pins (93604-12037-00) are available on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/qf6xesl And here for the longer dowel (93604-16092-00): http://tinyurl.com/q3tpegt In case your dealer doesn't have them.

I think you are on the right track with suspecting the diaphragms. 'Holey' diaphragms will still dance at idle, but when you want to go fast, the holes prevent sufficient vacuum to fully open up the slides and needles. Bite the bullet and remove the diaphragms and carefully inspect them. It is an easy-peasy task. There are two sources for new diaphragms that I am aware of. SCI (SIRIUS CONSOLIDATED INC) is a Canadian company that sells diaphragms for the Venture. JBM Industries is a another source. http://jbmindustries.com/

Evansville? That's south of the Mason-Dixon Line isn't it? I'm not sure if I am allowed to return to the 'South' after my last escapade there. Perhaps if I travel incognito, I can get past those Indiana troopers.

The shift sector (or as Yamaha calls a "segment") from the Second Gen Venture: 4NK-18185-00-00, is a direct replacement for the sheet metal captured First Gen shift segment.

Definitely!

Set the idle to a bit more than the recommended 1000 rpms. Will it idle now for more than twenty seconds? Are you using the 'choke'? Does increasing the choke help to keep it idling? Or does increasing the choke cause it to die? Do you have good spark on ALL cylinders after it dies? These engines will idle, albeit slowly on two cylinders. If you remove the outlet hose of the fuel pump you should see it spurt, but it is not a strong stream. The fuel pump is a reciprocating pump with a pressure of 2± psi. Also, the fuel pump will stop operating after 4-5 seconds if the engine is not firing. So simply checking for fuel pump output while the fuel pump is connected to the bike's wiring will result in pump cessation after 4-5 seconds. To check for continuous pump operation, the pump must be disconnected from the bike harness and 12 volts applied directly. And I ask again: do you HEAR the fuel pump operate when you turn on the ignition but before you start cranking?

If the red/white wire on the relay was severed, the engine would still crank but there would be no spark. ...(I think! )

At boats.net the proper part number is 36Y-81940-00-00, $67.68. Alternately, check on eBay for any 1986-1993 Venture 'starter relay'. In fact the same part is used on many other Yamaha models; FJ1100, Maxim, Virago, VMax, etc. Plug the part number into an eBay search and get 45 hits, starting at $11 for new.

IF carb removal is required, the main fairings (and everything within) can remain. Remove the lower fairings (the "L" shaped cowlings in front of the rider's shins), the side covers and the aforementioned air box. The main fairings may remain in place. The four carbs are removed as a single unit through the left side. But, to be frank, unless the 'technician' royally screwed up, you should be able to fix the leaking float valve without carburetor removal. It IS possible, though that he screwed up the carbs during reassembly or carelessly bent the float tab or failed to renew the valve seat O-ring or failed to replace the float valve needle or it could be something as simple as debris is caught under the float valve. This debris can come from the handling of the thirty year old fuel inlet hose, causing bits to slough off from within the hose. There is a "net filter" ( a fine metal mesh screen) at the inlet to each float valve that should have caught the largest pieces of debris, but it wouldn't take a large piece of debris to wedge the float valve open.

Really!? That would be a very old poster! The 1st Infantry Division is the oldest continuously serving division in the United States Army. It has seen continuous service since its organization in 1917. Do you have a picture of that poster? I'd like to see what it looks like.

Brenner, I know the horse is out of the barn now, but I thought you might find it interesting that apparently many others have suffered with lost saddlebags to the extent Yamaha actually felt the need to publish a Tech Bulletin. From 1983: XVZ12 Saddlebag Alert.pdf

Some side stand relay may have a blue base with a blue connector. It is labeled as "OMRON 4U8-01, or similar. Wire colors: Blue/white, Red/white, Black/white, Black.

No, there will be no access to the float chamber until you disassemble the carb. However, before you send the bike back to the shop that did the work, try tapping on the float bowl of the offending carb(s) with a plastic screwdriver handle or large wooden dowel, with the hopes that this action will jar the sticking float needle valve or hung up float. If you are encountering fuel "spraying" from the vacuum dampener, you have a LOT of fuel being dumped into the intake of that cylinder. The risk of hydro lock is high, not to speak of the damage done as the cylinder wall is washed of its lubricating oil. Keep an eye on your crankcase oil level; the gasoline is likely accumulating in the crankcase and raising the oil level.

When looking down onto the top of the carbs, with the air cleaner element removed, you are not observing the 'floats' move, but you are (hopefully) seeing the carb slides move. The carb floats are not visible until the carb is disassembled. The floats control the fuel level within the carb float bowls. While it is highly likely that the carbs may require cleaning, it is not likely that your problem is dirty jets. If the engine will idle satisfactorily at the recommended rpm (950-1050) for 'twenty seconds' and then die, and you cannot restart the engine immediately, that indicates a fuel delivery problem or an ignition system problem. After idling for twenty seconds at the recommended idle rpm, does it quit suddenly or does it begin to idle slower and slower with an accompanying dropping of one or two cylinders? If so, it would appear to be fuel related. If, on the other hand, after 'twenty seconds of proper idle it suddenly quits, it may indicate an ignition issue. When it quits idling, is there spark? When it quits idling, is there still sufficient fuel in the carb bowls? After it quits idling, and when you cycle the iginition key on and off and back to ON, do you hear the fuel pump clicking as it attempts to maintain the fuel level in the bowls. For that matter, do you ever hear the fuel pump clicking, especially when turning the ignition key on after an extended shut down? To remove the carbs, the main upper fairing does not have to be removed. The lower fairing parts will have to be removed, as well as the side covers and of course, the false tank cover.

Wow! I didn't know my identical 1983 Standard was also "Custom Made".