ragtop69gs

Mine didn't fail but I replaced it anyway at 55K because I got a great deal on a low mileage shock. The original will sit on the shelf just in case.

not sure yet but I'm hoping to.

I'll be in London come middle of May for a CAV ride, if you still have it maybe I'll swing by.

I wouldn't let the mileage of your bike deter you. You already know they will run into the high 100K mile range. Our 2008 Hannigan/RSV is awesome and puts a smile on the face of all who get on it. Me I'd rather spend $15K than 30K

Puc, while you wait on larry,,,,, He took me for a ride in it and I gotta tell ya that those are a blast to ride in, lots of get up and go, plus they corner like a roller coaster. I'm still waiting on my chance to pilot that thing

My thought is that if you are pulling the carb rack then you are right there and wouldn't take much longer to check the clearances. At 37K miles you will most likely be good. We did mine at 57K and had to change 3 shims. My front end will look like that pretty soon.

Somebody was having fun with photoshop and is now sitting back laughing at all the Venture owners who have been waiting for a new release. You are all fodder for someone else's entertainment.

Monty http://www.tricitycycle.com/default.asp?page=xPreOwnedInventoryDetail&id=1163160&p=1&vc=cruiser&s=Year&d=D&t=preowned&vt=motorcycle%20%2F%20scooter&year=2000&fr=xPreOwnedInventory

Monty, take a look at the shadow Ace Tourer 1100cc with hard bags and windshield. Nice bikes and easy to handle. There's a few for sale on THIS forum I'm a member of. It's what I had before the RSV. Take it from one who's wife also rides, you will both enjoy the ride with two bikes Get the bike now and pick one of the trips to put off this year. You've heard it before... HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE

Yes, Myself and a few others I know. I lost 1 bolt and had another 2 that were loose. You can buy the bolts at any ford dealer. I always keep a few spares in the trunk. It's the torx bolts to the right of the u-joint. They are known to come loose, even on ford cars using that rear end.

To Everyone with a Hannigan kit, Take a few minutes and check the tightness of the torx head bolts that secure the driveshaft to the rear end. They are known to come loose and disappear at the worst possible time.

Wow Carl ! Thank you for this post it's going to help lots of us rookie wrenches feel a bit better about getting into the forks. Thank you.

Thanks Carl, How do I instal the new ones without damaging Them? Sorry if I'm asking the obvious, I've never had forks apart before.

I'll be rebuilding my forks as soon as the parts get here. Looking at the factory service manual, it does not really say HOW to R&R the bushings, any pointers would be most appreciated. Any special tools needed for the bushings?

When you first start the bike feel the exhaust pipes at the cylinders, you are looking for cold cylinders. If 1 or 2 are cooler than the others then you may have a coil problem. Let us know what you find.

Don't mean to get technical on ya BUT,,, vacuum pumps SUCK

Get the Utopia adjustable backrest, you'll be glad you did.

All of the above are good suggestions. I have found the vacuum pump to be the best method along with tickling the clutch lever to release the micro bubbles trapped in the top.

Here is my parts list, anyone see missing parts or un-needed parts for the fork redo ? . .Gasket, Drain Plug Yamaha item: 3MA-23163-10-00 Old Sku: 3MA-23129-10-00 $2.36 2 increase decrease remove $4.72 . .Metal, Slide 1 Yamaha item: 4NK-23125-00-00 $8.37 2 increase decrease remove $16.74 . .Metal, Slide 2 Yamaha item: 4NK-23135-00-00 $5.44 2 increase decrease remove $10.88 . .Seal, Dust Yamaha item: 4NK-23144-00-00 $9.00 2 increase decrease remove $18.00 . .Oil Seal Yamaha item: 4NK-23145-00-00 $9.30 2 increase decrease remove $18.60 . .Washer, Oil Seal Yamaha item: 4NK-23146-00-00 $2.98 2 increase decrease remove $5.96 . .O-Ring Yamaha item: 4NK-23147-00-00 $0.95 2 increase decrease remove $1.90

Don, when you did the 99 did you do the bushings too? did they have much wear? What was the mileage on the bike? I need to order the fork parts soon. None of the threads I've read said anything about doing the bushings so I 'm thinking it is not common for them to go bad.

Next time she needs a bath I'll be happy to help. I guess we'll all get to see her naked when the map goes live .

Me 180# Don't think weight in saddlebags & trunk matter. I'm thinking Mobil 1 Syn. ATF (Dextron3) for fork oil, (equal to about an 11 weight fork oil). My goal is a firm but not teeth rattling either. My oil seals don't leak but while i'm in there.... My dust seals (aka guide boot) are cracked though. Looking at this micro fiche, I think I need to order numbers, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 15, 19 to do a fork rebuild. Not really sure I need all that, or maybe I'm missing something that I'll need.

What else should I replace while I have the front end torn down? We're talking a 2001 RSV with 73373 miles on the clock. I know fork seals, whats the preferred make & P/N ? What about the bushings? How do I know if they need to be replaced? How do I choose a fork oil weight? Head bearing repack will be done and possibly add a zerk to keep them lubed. Experienced hands are welcome to help as I've never done a fork job before. Food for labor gladly offered

Do you remember how to ride on two wheelz?

Hi Leo, When I swapped out my coolant jacket plugs I barely lost any of the green juice, I simply topped up the overflow tank and all was good.