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slipstreamer

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Everything posted by slipstreamer

  1. slipstreamer
    Thanks for the input Paul. can't quite visualize how that 15/16 bolt and nut work but will no doubt see it when I get into it. What's up with your forks that the uppers need changing and why the bushings? The uninitiated need to know these things. Take it easy on the Malahat by the way. I ran that daily for about six weeks when Ellen was in the hospital for brain surgery in 84 and we were living in Nanaimo.
  2. slipstreamer
    You're a smooth talker John. You get two hours on the bike and dinner and she's happy! Do you sell snake oil by any chance? How much difference did your progessives make to your ride? Anyway, thanks for the breakdown on your fork-seal change that is very helpful. I don't think I will get away with using the kitchen sink though. Cheers, Cliff
  3. slipstreamer
    Thanks for your input John. I have the Allen head socket set and the impact wrench. The sledge hammer on a piece of 2 x 6 sounds like the answer for removing the lower forks. What tool did you use to hold the damper rod when you removed the nut at the bottom of the forks? I think the 11/2 in ABS recommendation sounds like a good option for seating the seal. What parts did you find it necessary to replace when you did your seals? Where did you get your lifetime warranty seals? I have ordered seals from Yamaha??
  4. slipstreamer
    Thanks George. I have both the 1200 and 1300 service manuals. I was just trying to follow what you were saying and relate it to the parts catalogue. I use the ones on the Ronnies link: They are all the same. It is OK, I think I have enough information to go on now with much thanks to Freebird and those who have contributed here. If all else fails I have a local Venture/VMax tech that I can consult. Thanks for your help.
  5. slipstreamer
    I've been trying to respond to a PM from George S and it does not seem to be working so, here is my reply: GeorgeS ; Thanks for your input George, I really appreciate it. I am with you on the progressive springs but, I started this project with the intention of selling my 84. So, not sure what I am going to do about that. If I decide to keep it and start riding again I will definitely go that route. I had progressives on my 93 and they make a huge difference. My 84 has 70k Kms or about 42K miles. I have printed your item on Fork repairs from Venture Rider.Org, it is awesome. I also love your photos but, I will have some questions to ask later about what a few of them mean. The idea of pounding the forks off with a rubber mallet sounds like a particularly useful idea. Anyway, I need to nail down the parts list and I am having some difficulty relating the terminology that you are using with the parts list terminology so I can order the right things. If you could refer me to a part reference number, 1,2,3 .........74 etc and the associated name on the Ronnies parts list it would be most helpful. I need the numbers for the upper slide bush (split bushing); The lower guide bush (split bushing); and the specific "O" ring numbers for the Fork caps. I think the O rings for the 83-85 anti dive will be straight forward. I will get back to you with more questions about your pictures on changing for seals as I get into the project. Right now I just need to get the parts ordered. Thanks a ton for your help. Cliff
  6. slipstreamer
    Thanks again Black Owl. I am not familiar with torque bits. Would that be the same as a "Torx" bit? Do I need to replace that spring and circlip? Are there other parts that I should order or are most parts in the fork reuseable if I am careful taking things apart? Jeeze I hate being a technoweenie, sorry for all the questions but I hate taking the bike to the shop for something that I can probably do myself with a little effort! Cliff
  7. slipstreamer
    Thanks Black Owl. One more question. I see another tool in the tech library. 23" long with what looks like a socket welded on the end. What is that used for. I also see a photo of tools used for fork seal replacement. In that photo there is a long box wrench with one end at 90 degrees to the shaft. Would you know if that is used for the same purpose as the aforementioned tool? Thanks, Cliff
  8. slipstreamer
    Oops, I think I have deceived myself. What I thought was brake fluid on my right front disc I now think is fork oil. The reason that I had thought it was brake fluid is because when I pulled the brake lever bubbles appeared at the fitting on the caliper just below the vinyl cover on the brake line that runs between the caliper and the anti-dive unit. Having cleaned things up and bounced the bike up and down a bit I can clearly see that fork oil is emerging on the upper fork just above the dust cover. There was also a fair amount of fork oil on the back of the fork housing. So, now I am into a different project for which I have no experience and a couple of questions: First, the manaul says to put vinyl tape over the circlip groove when installing the oil seal. Does anyone do that and why? Is it to protect the oil seal from damage by the circlip groove. Second, in the article in the tech libarary about removing and installing forks a picture shows a rubber mallet being using on the front axle. That seems like a better way to remove the forks than by pulling on them. Does anyone do this? Third, there is a picture that shows a couple of fork tools, one looks like a mallet and the other looks like a handle with a half circle attached to one end. What is the latter for? And last, the 84 has a different anti dive unit the 86 and forward. Are there any precautions to take when removing the anti dive unit? Here is hoping I don't get soaked in oil or bonked by a flying spring or worse, break something. Thanks all.
  9. slipstreamer
    Yes it is brake fluid. I have just returned from a visit with my Venture Mechanic and he has confirmed that the brake line between the anti-dvie and the brake caliper is leaking. I have ordered it from Yamaha and was horrified to discover that a 10" or so brake line could cost $75 CDN / $71.18 USD. He says just remove the caliper and spray the pads and rotor with "Brake Clean", clamp the line running to the brake lever so as not to lose too much fluid replace the brake line, reassemble and bleed the brakes and the anti-dive. He says that the anti-dive can be difficult to bleed. I guess I am going to find out. Thanks for all your help guys. I will let you know how it all works out but the part will not come in until Wednesday so it will be a few days.
  10. slipstreamer
    Thanks guys, done. Cliff
  11. slipstreamer
    Whenever I post something I have to search for the thread in the forum to find any replies. Can I set my profile somehow so that I get e-mail notification when someone replies to a thread that I have either started or participated in?
  12. slipstreamer
    I agree with Dragonrider on this one. Resoldering the board should get everything working again. But, resoldering means just heating the offending pins so that the solder flows back around them again to make proper contact. Don't touch the solder runs themselves with a soldering iron. Before I finally found a tech who knew how to do this I gave my CMS to a TV repairman to resolder and he messed up all the solder runs and made a heck of a mess of things. I had to go to e-bay and buy another CMS as a result: That would be another option for you too.
  13. slipstreamer
    Thanks for chiming in Rick and George. If the brake pads are otherwise still serviceable I will have a go at salvaging them with lacquer thinner as you suggest Rick: Didn't know you could do that! I presume the same thing applies to the disK? As for where the fork oil is coming from, I am certain that it is coming from the fitting that goes between the anti-dive and the brakes. There is no fork oil on the lower fork so, I think the fork seals are OK. If I am right could that be brake fluid that is on the disk? Looks and feels more like fork oil though. The reason that I am not absolutely certain about this is because I don't know how the anti-dive system works. Should fork oil be running through that line that connects the brake and the anti-dive unit or is it brake fluid? :confused07:c Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
  14. slipstreamer
    I bled the brakes and clutch on on my 84 VR today and took the bike out for a test drive. The right front brake was not working so, I stopped and had a look. I saw that the brake disk was covered in what I think is fork oil. It looks to me like the line that seems to link the brake to the anti dive module has sprung a bit of a leak. This means that my brake pads are shot but, I will also have to replace the faulty line. I have never worked on this area before. I think it going to involve draining the oilf from the forks and draining the brake fluid for the right front brake. Then, there is the clean up of the disk: What is the best thing to clean that with? Also, I have tried to get the dust cover off of the caliper so I can inspect the pads but was not able to get it to budge without damaging it. What is the trick to getting that plastic cover off? Or, am I into something here that I should leave to a qualified mechanic?
  15. slipstreamer
    Well, I took Atlas for a run today after I finished bleeding the brakes and the clutch. The objective was to burn off some gas so I could put the Sea Foam in as planned. So, three things about the run: First, Atlas ran like the beauty that he always has been. I guess just changing the spark plugs made a huge difference which is amazing since he has been parked for about five years. I still heard the odd pop on decleration though so, I am still going to do the Sea Foam thing. Second, this was my first ride since I totalled my 93 (again) last June 06 (06-06-06) and I have to tell you it sure fealt good. However, I have resolved to quit riding so, these runs are just test runs to make sure Atlas is OK to sell. Ahem! Third, after all of my efforts at bleeding brakes and clutch, the line running to the anti-dive mechanism leaked what I think is fork oil all over my right front brake. I will address this topic in another thread. But, Oh Yeah, that old 84 is so sweet!!! I'll get back here when I have finally done the Sea Foam thing.
  16. slipstreamer
    Thanks guys. I will take it in two steps then. First, I will drain the tank down to about one liter then put in 1/2 can of Sea Foam, run it, shut it down and let it sit over night. Then run it the next day until it is on reserve. If that does not do the trick, I will pour some into the carbs while it is idling then shut it down again and let it sit over night. That is supposed to clean up the valves as I understand it. If it is still running rough after that I will change the plugs again (I just changed them a few days ago) and do a carb synch: Hopefully, that won't be necessary. I am getting a bit long in the tooth so picking the bike up and shaking it is getting to be a bit of a struggle but, I think I can still manage it. Thanks again for your help guys. I will let you know how it turns out.
  17. slipstreamer
    I have bought some Sea Foam and am not quite sure whether I should just pour some into the gas tank or if I also need to pour some into the carburetor. I think the carbs are what need the cleaning the most which would be taken care of by the Sea Foam in the gas tank. However, given that my plugs were black, it may also be a good idea to clean up the valves with it. If you have used Sea Foam, how have you used it to get good results? Thanks for your input. If you put some in the carbs did you pour it in directly while the engine was running or did you use the vacuum lines?
  18. slipstreamer
    Which one is your dad and which one is you Lumpy? I would not let that one bad experience with a full face turn you off of them completely. If you had been down three times like I have and the full face saved your face from being obliterated, your teeth from being knocked out and your jaw from being broken you would always want to wear one. Try some of the better ones on. I am sure that if you get a good one you will never go back.
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