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Everything posted by Ace
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Both my '06 and my 2000 RSV's do what you are describing.
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I request your prayers
Ace replied to Freebird's topic in Inspirational, Motivational, Prayer Requests, Etc.
I pray for you as I know exactly how you are feeling. I too felt that way a couple of years back, I had a 23 year career that I was no longer happy with. I had to make the choice between real good money and lots of paid vacation vs. happiness for my wife and I as I would be at home every night, a little less money and half the vacation time but a job that I love. Happiness won and I have never once regretted my decision. As Brian said, Follow your heart.... -
Sent you a PM.
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I had problems with my carbs on my 2000 RSV last fall. Bowls were overfilling with fuel and puking out the vents. I replaced the needles and seats, the problem was actually with the seats as there is an o-ring on it that fuel was passing around. I also replaced the o-rings and washers on each of the fuel mixture screws as the O-rings were totally degraded. I paid around $150 at my local Yamaha dealer. These should be the only parts you should need unless your carbs are dirty, then you may consider replacing jets as well. I'll look around for my bill so I can provide you the accurate part #'s. Oh, I also replaced the bowl gaskets on each of the carbs for that $150. If you have a Yamaha dealer that you like, they can easily and quickly get the parts for you or may even have them in stock.
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Help rerouting throttle cables
Ace replied to Wesley G's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
What you need to do is get some slack in the cables to allow you to remove them from the housing on the handlebar. Find where the throttle cables operate the carburetor(s). Disconnect the cables from there, to do this you need to remove the cables from the cable holders by loosening the 10mm nuts, slide each out then disconnect cables from carb assembly. By doing this you will create the slack you need to remove the cable from the handlebar throttle assembly. Hope this helps. -
Brian, I will throw you out an offer.... I can build you a hitch for your bike, I weld for a living so I can tell you that it will not break. I will also help you wire up your bike for your rack as I have done a few RSV's over the past 10 years or so. I will send you a pic of a RSV hitch I built but I cant find it right now and I gotta head to work.
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To Lube or Not to Lube... That is the question
Ace replied to Du-Rron's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
There isn't any reason to grease the splines at the diff end on the 2nd gens but most guys do. There is a hole through the bearing retainer (#6) through to the female spline (#10), a little of the gear lube does flow through to the spline. What can happen if you use too much moly or grease and it will plug this hole. I have never used anything when putting together and the spines are always coated with gear oil from the diff every time when I take it apart. My '06 RSV was like this and I had it apart quite a few times in 100,000 miles and I've had this 2000 apart twice and the splines at the diff end are ALWAYS coated in gear oil. It certainly doesn't hurt to put a little something on the splines at the diff end if it makes you feel better, just make sure not to use so much that it packs in the end and plugs off the oil hole. -
To pull wheel bearings, you need what's called a blind hole bearing puller. Have never replaced the swingarm bearings so I am not sure how to best get the outer races out of the swingarm, these bearings are a taper roller so are different than the wheel bearings. I would likely get them out by using a long punch from the opposite side of the swingarm.
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- bearing
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I went though this same thing with my 06, K&n's and opened up the air boxes. I had to go back to the original equipment to make that bike haul.
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I very much doubt you could make it work. I had a '10 ultra classic and this is my second RSV and they have very different seat profiles. The RSV you sit into the bike whereas the HD you sit on top of the bike. On the HD the frame profile from drivers to passenger is very flat, my vote is it would never work. Just sayin.......
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I will be trying C2's next. I used to run Avon Venoms for 100,000 miles on my 06 they served me well. When I got this bike I put E3's on it. I do like the way they handle and wear but boy does that back tire make some annoying noise when it starts to wear. There are enough people on here now using the C2's with nothing but positive results to convince me that they are my next tires.
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For the venture, I don't need to do much as I went though the bike head to toe when I bought it in February. As for a motorcycle project, I have been asked by a friend of mine's son to make a bunch of changes to a chopper that he has had for a few years, some of the changes include: Change out front end from telescopic fork to springer, this will entail changing the rake of the neck, strip down bike completely to powder coat frame, upon reassembly hide all wiring within frame, new primary drive and new baker 7 speed transmission, new tank and mounting brackets, and a bunch of little odds and ends. Seek out a good painter to have tins painted then reassemble the bike and get it ready to ride. This bike has a Merch motor in it and is a beast!!!! This isn't nearly as challenging as building a bike from scratch, I have done 3 complete ground up builds, but this should keep me out of trouble when that white crap is laying all over the ground............
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Just an update: Peder y2k was right. Fuel was getting around the orings that seal the seat to the body of the carb. I replaced all 4 needle and seat set ups, set the floats, no more leaks. I did have to re-sync (would have checked anyway) as it idled terrible when I was done, the sync was way off. I attribute this to breaking the carbs partially apart, this is necessary to get the float pivot pins out of 2 of the 4 carbs.
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Sorry, I re-read your post. I noticed you had the wider fender trim on both fenders. The wide trim at the back of the front fender was also not a stock item, also used to be available through Yamaha as an add-on.
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The wider chrome trim on the rear fender was not a stock item on the MM or any other RSV for that matter. You used to be able to purchase the wide rear fender trim through Yamaha. Beautiful MM!!!!
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Not sure. I filled it before heading home in a city 30 miles from home, the bike was running sweet after the fill up and all the way home. the station that I fill at in that city always has fresh, clean gas.
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On the Yamaha Canada website a big banner pops up right when you enter the site "New Model Countdown 10.16.14" I'm not holding my breath either, most likely just going to release a new sport bike, probably the one they have the teaser video on.
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The tank does not look rusty, at least not as far as I can see, I plan on pulling the carbs to get a good look inside. Thanks for the tip on the orings.
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Yesterday the wife and I took a nice long run as the riding season is coming to a close. I parked the bike in the garage for the night and this morning I thought I could smell raw fuel when I peeked in the garage. I never thought much of it but when I got home it smelled gassy around the bike. I looked around the bike and didn't find anything so I tried to fire it up, it started but ran very rough and I had to use lots of throttle to keep it running. Then the gas started to pour out the vents that exit by the air cleaner, not just one side but both sides! Bike has ran great all year since I bought it, I went through the carbs in the spring and they were just like new inside and I have run sea foam a few times throughout the season so they should still be clean. I am thinking that the needle valves are leaking by but why all of a sudden and both sides to boot! If I turn the key on the pump will tick, tick, tick and gas starts running out the hose on each side, keeps pumping until it times out. Anyone have any ideas? The bike only has 34,000 miles on it but it is pretty much 15 years old so probably time for a complete carb rebuild on all 4. Thoughts and recommendations are both welcomed and appreciated.
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Yes I would and probably will buy a brand new RSV. I am not really worried about accessories because I will make what I need. I had a 4 year hiatus from an RSV and found that there is nothing on the market to replace it. I got bit by the Harley bug in 2010 and sold my sweet 06 black cherry RSV to buy an Ultra Classic. The romance did not last long and I was longing for my RSV. Heat, poor overall performance and many breakdowns soured me for an air cooled v-twin. I have not found another touring bike (cruiser style) that will do what I need it to do and that is to be reliable and to be enjoyable on all levels and I have tried them all. I can see always having an RSV in the stable as my 2up distance rider. But, I am thinking FJR, ST 1300 or even a CTX 1300 as my next commuter........ Just sayin'.......
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update on no start on son's bike
Ace replied to baylensman's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Front cable should be the pull cable. I didn't catch what bike it is but if it is an RSV or RSTD You need to pull the gas tank off and dismantle the pulley system for the throttle/cruise control. Pay close attention to how this comes apart and be aware that there is a spring in there so pull apart gently so you know exactly how that spring goes back in. Would be good to look at the service manual if you have one. once you have the cables that lead to the handlebar disconnected from the pulley then you can dismantle the handlebar housing and remove the broken cable. Again, a service manual in these situations are your best friend. Good Luck.