Ace

I agree, the stratoliner is a very underrated bike. I own one as well and its like riding a lazyboy on wheels with excellent handling and MASSIVE power. Mine is bone stock and and all my buddies that have $5k motor work on their new Harleys only see my taillight...........

They will fit

Very Sharp!

I have the heavy duty Hagon as I ride my RSV mostly 2 up and pull a trailer lots. The preload can be set but the shock has to be pulled to do it. You can also adjust the dampening right on the bike. Hagon did ask me the combined weight of the 2 of us plus trailer, they did set it where they thought it should be. I did play with it and have the preload one turn stiffer and the dampening 2 turns stiffer. I was having trouble with my Hagon on a trip this summer, I thought the shock was out of gas as it was bouncing in the rear but I come to find that there is delicate balance of preload, dampening and trailer tongue weight when pulling a trailer. I had increased the preload too much and had too much tongue weight thus causing the bouncing. I was increasing the dampening in small increments with not much results, found you have to turn it 1/2 - full turns to see results. I have it dialed in now.....Good shock.

They look like they would fit. I changed all 4 of mine out with Polk Audio DB401's, they are a marine grade speaker. They do provide a lot more clarity that the OEM's but in my opinion, if you really want to hear the radio better and do not want to wear head sets, install an amplifier and the speakers.

I've replaced my grips on several of my bikes with Avon air grips. They never get slippery no matter if you are not wearing gloves, wet, etc, etc. They change out easy and it does not seem to matter if the bar end weights are not there, I cannot feel any more vibrations.

E3 front and rear, stock size in front. They wear like iron and I have no problems riding in rain. At first when I mounted the rear I said "oh-oh" when I saw how flat of a profile the tire was. Truth is, the bike with E3's feels much more planted than the Venoms I ran for 100,000 miles on my '06 RSV and much better than the 404's that were on this 2000 when I bought it.

Sounds like the idle circuit is too lean. Are you running K&N's with the filter housings opened up per chance?

I would check for exhaust leak like Neil has suggested. My RSV's have seemed to be a little leaner on #3 cylinder as well. If you are not the 1st owner, have a look at the air filters and the housings for them. On my last RSV I messed around with the openings on the filter housings making the opening bigger plus K&n's. This made the bike idle like crap plus stumble as it was very lean and needed more fuel. The opening should be a round hole in the front of the housing, it was popular quite a few years back to open up the hole to the shape of the "D" in the front of it, proved to be not good without rejetting.

If you overfilled with oil, your air collection boxes above your carbs are probably coated pretty heavily. I'll bet that when you park the bike that the drain hoses will drip a little oil if it sits for a while. Best way to get rid of that is to pull the tank, remove the boxes above the carbs and clean/wipe out. These things get coated after a while even if the oil hasn't been overfilled, I land up cleaning these out at least once a year.

When I am going to remove my tank I always disconnect the hose from the petcock and install a piece of hose I have especially for this and route to a gas can , open the petcock and drain the tank off to the can before removal, makes it much easier to handle.

Cool beans. I have a Stratoliner that I have been thinking of going darkside on as it absolutely eats back tires. Never thought of it on the RSV but may just have to consider it.

If its an '09 or '10 Ultra (which it looks like) beware!! I had one ('10) and the horrible experience will hinder me from ever owning anything HD again. Expect compensator failures, primary auto chain tensioner failures, transmission main bearing failures, wheel bearing failures, Lack of power and an extremely hot running engine.

In my experience with these bikes a wobble or wander or both usually indicates something amiss with the steering head. If you have a lift, check for looseness by pulling on the forks to see if you can feel any play. If all seems ok, rotate handlebars back and forth slowly to see if it feels rough or "notchy" (for lack of a better term). It is better to check for rough rotation with the front wheel off.

Had the same thing happen to my 06. When I checked the swingarm I had side to side play, the bearings were ok but the preload adjustment was too loose. If you pop the chrome cap on the right side for the swingarm, the preload adjustment for the swingarm bearings is made on that side. I cannot remember the torque spec as my manual is packed away in my trailer but it is a very low number. Loosen the jam nut, then tighten pin to specified torque, tighten jam nut. That'll straighten it out until you have time to pull everything apart.

I'll second what Neil86 said. Your carbs may be way out of sync as well.

Your driveshaft splines at the final drive end should be lubricated by the gear oil. The gear coupling (where the driveshaft slips into) has a hole to allow gear oil into there. I have had my 06 apart, my 2000 apart as well as many others and they all have the oil hole on the 2nd gen. Maybe grease is blocking the hole..

I would do what Kirby suggested and drain the carb bowls and check for water. The symptoms you are describing is exactly how carbs react when the jets are clogged with water. Also, does your fuel pump come on when you turn on your key? If the tank level is low and the fuel pump isn't working the bike will act the way you are describing.

I put a heavy duty Hagon on my RSV this spring. It was awesome at first but I noticed that it started to fail when on a trip heavily loaded down riding 2 up pulling a trailer. On that trip I had to increase the dampening 1/2 dozen times to keep the back from bouncing, and I have done it a few times since. The shock is failing and I only have about 7000 miles on it. I will go for warranty when I have time..... Please don't let my negative experience with this shock sway you, tons of riders on this forum have them and mine seems to be the first dud.

The pump on my 06 failed at 55,000 miles, and it was burned out points (replaced under warranty). I just checked the points on my 2000 MM and they look brand new still, I knew the original owner of the MM and I know he did not replace the pump or points. I am thinking around that 06 area they switched manufacturers or something, you hear more failed pumps/points on 06's and 07's than the earlier years.

Just to share my thoughts on the bike wandering at low to mid speeds: when I had my 06 RSV it did this as well. What it turned out being is bad steering head bearings. The races had marks or dimples from the taper bearing and would tend to catch. This was hard to diagnose because I couldn't feel the notchy (for lack of a better term) bearings while riding or even when bike was on a lift UNTIL I removed the front wheel and turned the handlebars back and forth (while on a lift). The fix was to replace the bearings.

I hope you get better service out of your Hagon than I am getting. I bought mine in March, I bought the heavy duty model as I ride 2 up a lot plus pull a trailer on long trips. At first I thought it was the greatest shock ever but I just got back from a 3000 mile little jaunt and it is toast. The dampening started to go away 1/2 way into my trip so I would adjust the dampening, it would be ok for about 1/2 the day then you could feel it fading again so I would adjust again. The shock only has 5500 miles on it and needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Hopefully I just got a dud and a replacement will last longer, we'll see if they will warranty it (they better, its only 4 months old). I only weigh 185 and my wife is about 140, 35# hitch weight so too much weight was not the problem. Not trying to burst anyones bubble but I just thought I would share my experience with this shock.

Awesome idea, I may just have to do this.

Really not sure. Wheels are oddball sizes and very few companies make tires that fit. Only can get radials in the sizes that are needed and are kind of anemic on tread depth right from new.

You got that right. I have a strat in my collection and it eats tires, best I can do on any rear is 6000 miles and the cords are showing, front maybe 10,000.