Ace

Try Canada's Motorcycle. I've bought parts from them quite a few times, quick and good prices. http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca

I got just shy of 16,000 miles (not KM), not my best season but certainly not my worst.

Looks like you did a really nice job, It will be interesting how well the seats work I know heat demons hand warmers work well so I'm sure the seats will work just as well.

I think we are brothers with different mothers!! Sounds like something I would do......only I'd strap something on with a little more HP.........

What I found to see if there is side to side play is I disconnect the dog bones from the swing arm, usually I can't detect play unless the rear shock is out of the equation.

Good advice from the other guys. You definitely don't want to over tighten the neck bearings as it will give you goofy handling characteristics as well. One thing I've always checked on my RSV's along with neck bearings is the preload on the swingarm bearings, if they are even just a smidge loose it will cause the bike to wander and can even make it wobble and they will get loose. Both my 06 and my 00MM I have had to adjust swingarm bearings more than once.

Yep, they had a Indy RXL EFI, the '92 was FAST! I had an '86 600 three holer that I called "Squirt", because when you squeezed the loud handle, it would squirt to 100mph as fast as you could say "Domo aregato, mister roboto" it looked a little rough around the edges but I didn't spend the money on makin' it purdy.....I had a clutch/gearing setup that that made that beast hard to hang onto the handlebars when she was hooking up. I used to show up at drag events and lot's of guys would be snickering and badmouthing Squirt. Well, when the light went green they weren't snickering no more 'cause all they could see is my snow dust and smell that sweet 2 stroke odor of Squirt.... I'm getting a little flush talking about this..............

I ran some of the early Polaris 600 triples with individual expansion chambers. Sweet, sweet music huh puc.......

Yes you can rebuild it. If you stop at any Yamaha dealer they should have the parts as that same petcock was used on many, many models for many years. Very easy to rebuild..

I like it....I like it a lot......

I don't see the FJR in the line up either, I do think there will be some later releases.

Just a little temperamental to start........

I bought one for my RSV from that supplier last year and they did supply the correct one and it was the purple one. They do have a return policy that I have used in the past with no problems just in case.

To polish stainless to mirror finish you are going to need some stainless steel buffing compound and a buffing wheel or tip for your drill. This stuff can be found at hardware stores relatively inexpensive. stainless is hard so you need the compound and speed to cut the surface.

You're welcome. Maybe try backing off the right side and see if the gap closes, if it doesn't then you know that's just how the swingarm was manufactured.

Just in case you aren't aware, RSV's speedometers read high so at 70 on the speedo you are only going approximately 65MPH. On my bike the noise fades drastically when I run 72 on the speedo then all the way to about 80 its good. Heavier oil does help a wee bit.

That doesn't look right to me. Mine does have a small gap but not enough to see any threads. It may just be how your swingarm was manufactured or your torque wrench is way off. If you tighten that side too much it will tend to push the swingarm away from the frame.

Cables and hydraulic lines will be tight but they will work with the risers you are looking at. A good cheap way to get a little longer cables and lines is to search on ebay for a set from a 05-09 Tour deluxe, they are exact same as RSV cables except 2-3" longer.

Dunlop Elite 3. They are usually referred to as E3's. They are a great tire for an RSV, front comes in a stock size, rear is reinforced tire rated for heavy loads and last forever. With the profile of these tires really make the bike stable on the highway, I have rode RSV's for 130,000+ miles and they are the most stable tires I've run and I've tried quite a few different ones. Only negative to the E3's is they start to get noisy when they are wearing out.

I installed a Hagon last spring on my RSV. Just so you know, you have to remove the shock from the bike when and if you want to increase/decrease preload. I found this year now that I have some miles on it that I need to increase preload when I going to pull my trailer. I decrease it for normal riding as it is too stiff if I want to ride solo (which isn't very often). My shock is the heavy duty model and one thing to be aware of is when turning the nut to increase preload, the top mount will tend to start threading off the shock, mainly because you need to hold that end in a vice or in a jig to adjust preload. This happens when the adjustment nut is maybe 1/3 up its adjustment range, I would like to be able to go more but the shock eyelet starts to unthread. There is no way to get any more preload than 1/3 up the threads without the shock wanting to come apart, I have tried everything to hold it, I made jigs, etc, nothing works. Just a poor design. I did unthread the top mounting eyelet and this is how you would change the oil, just dump it out, top up with fresh oil and screw the eyelet back on. Also since first installing it I have had to add about 8 turns in various increments to the dampening screw as it starts to get like a pogo-stick after a while, maybe its time to change that oil. This is only my opinion, but I would never buy another one for an RSV. 24,000 miles on mine so far.

I agree with this, I had this happen with my '06 RSV. Best way to check if bearings are "notchy" is to get the bike up on a lift and remove the front wheel then slowly turn back and forth and see if you can feel it catching. Something also to check is how much play is on the rear suspension swingarm pivot bearings, bike will wander when it gets sloppy as well.

I have had the same issue with 2 RSV's, on my '06 (in about 2009) and on this 2000 which happened last season. I could smell rich exhaust when riding plus I could smell raw gas when I'd let off the throttle when I was on the highway. On both bikes eventually liquid fuel started coming out of the carb vents. The fix was to rebuild the carbs as the O-rings that seal the float valve seat to the carb body were failing causing the fuel to bypass the needle and seat and overfill the carb bowls. Another thing to look at is the O-rings on the pilot mixture screws, mine were deteriorated badly and this will also cause a rich mixture plus leak externally. If you use some harsher cleaners in your gas the rubber parts will deteriorate, they will deteriorate with age as well. Just posting my experience....

I've been buying my tires (and my riding buddies tires) from them for the last 4 or 5 years and other stuff for the last couple of years. I've had the experience as divey with their customer service, it's top notch!!

I have been caught in the rain with the E3's, everything from a light drizzle to hard rains and I've never had a hydroplane issue yet. But to be fair, I always slow down and take it easier when the road is wet, always!

I run 40 psi in my rear E3 always, any more and it feels too twitchy. Dunlop recommends 40 psi on the E3 on the rear of the RSV, I have played with pressures a little up and down from 40 but the tire performs excellent at 40. The last E3 I had on lasted 15,000 miles but most of those miles were 2up and 50% of the time pulling a trailer. The only thing I don't like about the rear E3 is that when it starts to wear it starts getting noisy.