Freebird

I don't think so. We did at one time but the last time we discussed it, he said that prices had gone up and he would have to raise prices or discontinue the discounts and at that time, had discontinued them. He is a great guy though and does stand behind his products.

Yes, I have done it as several others here have. If you've pulled your rear wheel off, you have done the hard part. It's very simple. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the pumpkin to the drive shaft tube, remove the one screw that holds the speedo sensor in and then slide it out. The hardest part is stabbing the front of the drive shaft back into the U-joint. That can sometimes take a few minutes. It includes the pumpkin only. You use your own shaft.

I use Edsets and I think they are about as good as you can get. Before them, I tried the best J&M and even AirRiders.

No, you do not have to remove the plugs. It has no affect on the syncing process.

Yes, the CB antenna should be on the left side of the bike as you sit on it. The cable from the base of that antenna should go into the black box under the trunk. Also, you say that you THINK you understand the squelch. Just to be sure, the higher number you have it set on, the shorter distance you will likely be able to use it. If you set it to a low number, you will likely be able to hear riders and others further away. The downside is that you will get a lot of reception that you really don't want and it will always be interrupting your music. I keep mine set very high....ofter all the way up to 20 as I really only want to hear transmissions by those that I'm riding with and are very close to me.

It won't hurt anything to ride it. I would just caution you to be careful as handling will be compromised.

Your are correct on both issues. They ARE great bikes but depending on how it has been maintained, there could be a lot of wrenching. You have to realize that your bike is now about 30 years old. Things like front springs, steering head bearings, bushings and etc. do wear out. Also on the '83 - mid '85 models, there was a problem with a soft washer in the transmission and it caused them to eventually lose second gear. You don't say how many miles are on it but around the 60,000 mile range is where the problem often starts showing up by popping out of second gear upon acceleration. Carb diaphragms are also know to go bad. They are rubber and if they have never been changed, they likely need to be. They get pin holes in them. Very easy to change out but just one of those things that happen after 30 years. It is possible that the second gear issue has been addressed on the bike that you bought but many haven't.

I've had the leveling links installed for many years. I started to take them off when I installed the new shock but ended up leaving them on. It may have raised the bike another tiny bit but if so, it's insignificant. As for the Sonic Springs, I used 10 weight synthetic and am very pleased with the way it turned out.

Very nice Condor. Jerry sent me an autographed pic a couple or more years ago. Jerry is a fantastic guy...I typically refer to him as my future father in law.

Swifty...go back to your corner. Yammer Dan is lonely there and misses you. For the rest of you, I did take the bike out for a ride this morning and I have to say that so far, I am completely impressed with this shock. I found a variety of roads from state highways, farm/market roads, rough city streets, speed bumps and railroad tracks. The ride was very good on all. What surprised me more that the ride though is the handling. I didn't expect that changing the rear shock would have such an affect. The bike is clearly more responsive and actually feels lighter with this shock. Can't really explain why but talked to Rick Butler this morning and he wasn't surprised at all. He said that the improved dampening and etc. is likely the reason for the improvement. Will have a better feeling for it after the ride to the International in Galena but so far, I am really impressed. With this shock along with the Sonic Springs that I put in the front a couple of years ago, no more air adjustments necessary on my bike.

Follow these instructions. Very easy. If you have a manual, there is a major error...at least in the earlier manuals....so use these instructions, NOT the one in the service manual. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=258

That is correct Condor. Backwards from what you would first think.

Some of you may remember that a few weeks ago, MarCarl was auctioning off a YSS shock that was donated by another member. I ended up being the winning bidder on the shock and he brought it to me on Maintenance Day. I finally got around to installing it this morning. My old shock seemed to be OK but I just wanted to try the YSS. Installation was fairly easy. How do I like it? I have no idea. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet. It sure looks pretty if you get on the ground and look under the bike though. I was a little concerned because the member that had it, had it built to his specifications and his total weight is a bit more than mine. Sitting on the bike and working the shock, it feels pretty perfect though. We'll see. I'll report back after I've put some miles on it.

The thing is, I don't think it's needed on your bike. The earlier Royal Stars had very small air intakes and it resulted in a real hit on power. Your newer model has plenty of air intake and would really not benefit from that kit.

You can indeed start a thread. I just answered this question a few days ago for another member. Please see this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79727

LOL....that's funny. But it is a satirical site.

LOL....this old way is actually not better but is what most people preferred. The new way was truly better in that it actually saved your "read" status in the database and was a true indication of whether or not you had read something. But......the majority spoke.

If it is the Rivco adapter, I believe that takes the Fram PH3950. I think the Bosch cross is the 3320. Don

and this is where I got my VMAX rear. http://www.rmsportmax.com/

I love it. That's something that I've always wanted to but just never did it. Enjoy it my friend.

OK folks...not many voted in the poll but it is obvious that most of you prefer the old way. I have changed it back. It may require that you mark some things read that you have already read. Not sure but it should get back to normal after a couple of visits.

It is no problem to change it back. I do want to let the majority decide though so please vote in the poll. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79747

OK...a few days ago I changed the way that the forum works in regards to when it marks posts as being read. It appears that most people liked it better the old way. The way it is now is a much more accurate method but it makes absolutely no difference to me and I can change with back in about 2 minutes. So just to ensure that I am listening to the majority, please vote on which was you like it. Now the old way and the one that we would be returning to works like this: Inactivity/Cookie Based - once a user has been inactive for a certain amount of time (the value of the session timeout option) all threads and forums are considered read. Individual threads are marked as read within a session via cookies. The new way it is now and has been for the past few days works like this: Database (automatic forum marking) - this option is the same as a previous option, but forums are automatically marked as read when the last new thread is read. This is the most usable option for end users, but most processor intensive.

100.00 a month? Where did you get that info? I don't pay anywhere near that. I think I pay an extra $3.00 per month or something like that.

It basically raising the RPM in any gear about 500 RPM. As for the rev limiter, that is why the next thing to do after the VMAX rear is the Dyna 3000 ignition module. Then you can raise that rev limiter. I've done both and love the result.