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Yes, I've looked at that list before. You will see that MOST of them are marinas. There are a handful of others but nothing really close enough to me to make it worth the drive.

It just reaches a point where you have to decide how bad you want it. I don't want it that bad. I'll just suffer through the ethanol. Drive 25 or so miles, pay a LOT more for gas at the marina prices around here, wheel it back to the truck, load it into the truck, drive 25 or so miles back home. No thanks.

All grades in Ohio also have ethanol. About the only gas you can find without it is at marinas and there are no pumps there except at the docks. Long walks to fill up a 5 gallon can and walk back to the vehicle with it.

This event has been cancelled.

Folks, I thought I had deleted all the information regarding that event. Snarley Bill has cancelled it due to the fact that there seemed to be very little interest at this time.

What it all means is .... it is up to you. I've always run mine in the reserve position. Basically because it gives me a warning when I get low and am not paying attention to the gas gauge. That has happened a few times. I then just reach down and turn it to reserve and have never had it die before I got it switched. Now I'm having to pay more attention. The new Road Glide has no reserve/shutoff valve at all.

Colorite will recommend that you use their clearcoat with their paint. I disagree. I know of at least a couple of folks who have used their clearcoat and it "yellowed" fairly fast. I think V7Goose ran into that problem. I would just us a quality automotive clearcoat.

Eck, I would LOVE to do that but unfortunately, I'm getting a bit low on vacation time. Gotta save some of it for the holidays.

I was determined to get more saddle time this year. The Harley is just a coincidence of it all. Things have FINALLY calmed down around here just a bit. Don't know how long it will last so I'm trying to take advantage of it. I've had the Harley now for 5 weeks I think...maybe 6...and have put almost 5,000 miles on it. That's more than I rode all year last year.

Had a nice ride today that ended up in Waldo, OH. Any of you been there? D&R Tavern is famous for it's bologna sandwiches. This was my first time and I quickly realized why it was so popular. FANTASTIC! It is also a very biker friendly establishment and the bikes lined both sides of the street. It is worth the visit if you are ever in the area. Cash only, no credit cards. http://www.roadfood.com/Restaurant/Overview/4793/gr-tavern

I think you will need Larry's adapter even with the JS Lift. The video shows it being used on a Harley. The Harley engine doesn't drop down lower than the frame as the RSV does. Any lift you buy will need some type of adapter for the RSV. Larry's adapter should work with most any brand lift.

I agree. That will be fine for running and cleaning it out before winter. I never actually do that though. I add one full can to a full tank of gas before parking it for the winter. Have done that for the past 10 years and it has worked well for me. I ride it to the gas station about 2 miles away, fill it up and add the Seafoam there and then ride it home. I figure that gets it into the carbs, lines, etc.

The dealer where I bought mine has a decent sized group riding out. I would like to go but just can't take off on another trip right now. Would be fun I think.

Yea, and now I don't even want to borrow Mike's things.

For us, it is about 710 miles. So two easy days for us. I'm really looking forward to it.

I would love to be there just to see them.

Weekend after labor day or the next week...doesn't matter to me. The route doesn't matter either but it just needs to be a route that we can make some good time on. I assume that we will do a round trip for this one? If not, we will be riding BACK 1500 miles also. That makes for a fairly tiring weekend. Some type of circle type trip would be nice if we could figure it out.

I'm not sure that you need to do it on the '86 though.

I'm in. Let's pick a time and do it. How about it Eddie? Weekends are certainly best for me.

I've had both and never really had an issue with either one. My Road Glide has a frame mounted fairing though as did my last Harley, the FXRD. They do seem to be a bit more stable when getting blasted with the turbulence of a big truck or something but it was really not an issue on the RSV either.

I mailed all my paperwork on Monday morning. Now it's a matter of just waiting for 60 to 90 days for them to confirm it. I ended up right at 1078 miles and almost exactly 18 hours. I understand that they may change the mileage but I think it will be very close to that. It was pretty much a straight shot so not much room for error. The Road Glide speedometer is almost dead on with my GPS...maybe 1 MPH off. Mapping program also agreed with the mileage.

We aren't that far apart. Eddie wants to do one too. Lets just make it happen.

Eddie, I'll let you know as soon as I get some new bars and get these off. Most other Road Glide riders love these bars, they just don't exactly do it for me.

Thanks to Flyinfool for this great tech article. Testing for a Battery not Charging. 1. Start by fully charging the battery. A. Charge at a low rate of about 2 Amps for at least 12 hours. B. A faster charge will put in a quick surface charge not the deep charge that is needed. 2. Clean all of the charging circuit connections. A. This includes, positive and negative battery terminals, the frame and engine grounds, starter motor connection, solenoid connections, Regulator / Rectifier (RR) connector, Main fuse connections, and Stator connector. 3. With the bike running at over 2,000 RPM check the voltage across the battery terminals. See note below. A. The voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts DC. B. If the voltage is less than 13.5 go to step 4. C. If the voltage is more than 14.5 replace the RR and start step 3 over. 4. Test the battery A. With the battery fully charged have it load tested. a. Many stores that sell batteries will do this for free. B. If battery is good reinstall and go to step 5 C. If battery is bad, replace and go back to step 3 5. Test the rectifier diodes, (Unfortunately there is no easy test for the regulator) A. Disconnect all wires from the RR. B. Set your ohm meter to either diode test (preferred) or its scale closest to 2K ohms. C. Connect the black meter lead to the black wire of the RR. D. Test each of the 3 white wires with the red lead of the meter. a. They should each show continuity (low resistance) E. Connect the red meter lead to the black wire of the RR. F. Test each of the 3 white leads with the black meter lead. a. They should each show no connection. G. Connect the black meter lead to the red wire of the RR. H. Test each of the 3 white wires with the red lead of the meter. a. They should each show no connection I. Connect the red meter lead to the red wire of the RR. J. Test each of the 3 white leads with the black meter lead. a. They should each show continuity. K. If all of the tests in C. thru J. pass go to step 6 L. If any of the test in C. thru J. fail replace RR 6. Test the stator. (All stator tests are with the stator unplugged from the RR.) A. Set ohm meter to its highest scale. B. Check from each of the 3 stator wires to ground. a. The reading should all be open. b. If the reading is a low number then the windings are shorted to ground. Stator is bad. C. Set ohm meter to its lowest scale. D. Check the resistance between each pair of white wires, ie 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. a. The readings should be 0.36 to 0.48 ohms at 68°F (20°C) b. The readings should all be very close to the same. c. Readings outside of the range indicate a bad stator. 1. This test is not always a 100% indicator of a bad stator since many less expensive meters are not sensitive enough to measure this small of a resistance accurately. E. WARNING – The following test has dangerous voltage present on the 3 stator leads. Do not touch them. You will get a shock. a. Do not let the stator leads touch each other or you will have a bad stator. F. Set your meter to a scale to read more than 100volts AC. G. Start the engine and hold at above 2,000 RPM. H. Measure the voltage of each pair of white wires., ie. 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. a. The voltage should be over 50 volts AC and could be over 100VAC. Depending on exact RPM b. Each of the 3 wire pairs should show close to the same voltage. I. If one or more pairs of wires show a low voltage and/or the resistance test from D. shows a difference, then the stator is bad. NOTE Run test 3 with as many things turned off as possible and again with as many things turned on as possible. If the voltage is low only with everything on, you might just have too much electrical stuff for the system to power. But it could still be a marginally performing stator and/or RR. By Jeff Borowski August 15, 2013

No, I had left early because I had a doctor's appointment in Cleveland right after lunch. I was actually at my appointment when I missed his first call.