Marcarl

So the procedure: make sure the MC is clean and in good condition, as well as the reservoir. Put is all together and fill the reservoir with fluid. Crack open the banjo bolt on the MC until fluid comes out, and then close the banjo. Now bleed the rear caliper from air. You won't get any pedal yet. Now you need to get at the metering valve on the back of the triple tree and loosen a connection there. It's either the hard line or the flex line, which ever you can most easily get at. Now pump the brake pedal to get the fluid to come out. Close that back up and open up the bleeder screw on the left front caliper. I usually just pump the MC until fluid comes out and then close it. Now go back to the rear caliper and bleed as you normally would and then do the front left again. At this point there should be some pedal. Continue until all the air is out.

Somebody can give better numbers, but the basic is that the stator is not voltage sensitive, hence you need the voltage regulator. Amperage is a different story. Regulators can go bad all on their own sometimes I think.

First remove the hose at the bottom of the reservoir, you will need to reuse this hose because it is a formed hose so it doesn't kink. Then to the left bottom of the reservoir you can discover the bolt that hold it in place. Remove the bolt and the reservoir will wiggle out. I don't understand what you are trying to do with more tubes to the top of the reservoir, so if needed maybe you could explain that as well.

Normal voltage should not be higher than the high 14s. At 18 you'll fry the battery and more electric equipment. Replace the regulator, it's the unit that bosses the voltage.

Or in the triple tree area.

Somebody didn't know what they were doing. It was much easier to install without the spring than with it and after all the filter was in place isn't it? The spring holds the filter tight against the engine and if the filter should plug for some reason it will be pushed out of the way so that oil will still be processed through the engine. Looks to me like the previous filters weren't used a whole lot, other than filling a void in the cover. You should be just fine I think.

Drain the oil, put plug back in, pour in kerosene, drain and let it totally drip out, and refill with oil and new filter.

I think it's best to quit riding when the time comes, not to try and stretch it out. That way you can enjoy wonderful memories and not be thinking as to why you didn't quit one ride sooner.

Careful that you put the oil seal in the right way, solid side out.

I would order seal #93109-08061-00 and replace it as well to make sure. Then I would drain the oil out of the engine, flush it with some kerosene, let it drip out well, add new oil, run it until it get warm, then do another oil change. Also change the oil filter at the first change.

Yep, you got it right. A bit of oil will come out, that's normal, its' engine oil. Now if you look just to the left of that cover (middle gear cover) you will see what you need to remove. It sits right against the engine and has a 'brake' hose atteched to the front of it, with 2 allen bolts , top and bottom, holding it in place. First loosen and move the wires out of the way as best you can, and remove the hose (12mm socket), then remove the two bolts making very sure your wrench is fully seated before application of power. I like to use a 3/8 impact making sure first that it's set to remove, not to tighten. Once the bolts are removed and you hold your tongue just right the slave will drop out of the bottom. If it wants to resist that direction it's most likely that there is a wire set in the way at the stator case.

Snug them up a wee bit and see what happens.

Can you still be cross-eyed?

Give those steering head bearings a little bit of tightening. You might not feel any looseness in them, but that doesn't mean they are tight enough. If you get them too tight the bike will want to go it's own way, even at slow speeds. Also make sure they are properly greased.

Won't be hard to make a difference with that,,, now to get to look real prudy will take a little effort.

Don't see an 88 in the pictures. GET TO WORK!

I would change the oil to something designed for diesels. You might have got some friction modifiers into the crankcase and that would be bad for a wet clutch. Not sure about the Harley springs, but would suggest to go the Barnett route.

Super! Maybe you could give us the particulars on the setup and where you found it all.

Careful with additives,,, they can make the clutch slip and they are hard to 'wash' out.

We could come over, fix the scoot and test drive it for you, and check your fridge and freezer in the process.

Neutral is usually hard to find, but easier when it's running and using your foot, but still can be tricky.

Interesting thought, thanks.

Washer is in place, clutch doesn't seem to bind yet, haven't got that far. Took the slave out as well due to investigation and found the seal to be weak, so now need a seal there. Tranny should shift without the clutch and does so quite nicely, until I snug up the nut on the transmission shaft, then shifting becomes an issue. Clutch plates not yet installed.

Top drawer is still too small. NICE!

That thought has crossed our minds, but it shifts not bad when the clutch nut is totally loose. So in my thoughts is that any tension on the transmission shaft changes things. Why?