Marcarl

It might be helpful if you give more of an explanation and more pictures. I don't think any of us are very familiar with how that unit goes together.

We all do things differently, that doesn't make you or me wrong, just not the same.

Now if it were my bike, in the fall after last ride, I would fill the tank, add stabilizer or SeaFoam, close everything up nice and drain the carbs, then see you in the spring. I'm thinking that by running it, even to the point you said, will only semi-warm up some of the internals or externals just enough to have moisture cling to or migrate to them, and that causes problems.

Some will say things about ethanol being a culprit, drying up and leaving residue, and that might well be the case. If it is then some carb cleaner in the fuel could clean that up for you. Lots of cleaner, little bit of fuel, so a rich mixture. I lean toward having some of those dried up rubber particles ending up in the carbs and to fix that would mean removal and cleaning. You would not be the first one to have that happen.

They leak because the o-ring gets old, so you will need a new o-ring. I believe they just pull out and the cover holds them in place, but somebody else will have a better insight into that.

Have to,,, otherwise some Dutchman would drink it all.

Not going to invite you over here again, you'd drink all of my beer.

Ooo wow! This year already,,, NIIICE!

Lots of us use them and very few if any adverse comments.

So how long before it gets it's first ride? Pretty awesome. Like the paint booth!!

That's the kind of guy he is. He has a positive look to his future, knows where he is going to end up, and just faithfully does what is required of him to serve others as his Lord has instructed. Thanks to God for his presence.

Might I suggest a quick wet sanding with 2000 paper before final coat? Seems to give a deeper shine I think.

I just looked and you don't seem to be here,,,, so that's good I think. I just asked Marca and she didn't see you either,,, even better maybe.

seems you are missing out on all the snow fun

If what you mean is the mixture screw, it's not so hard as you might think. 2.5 turns out gets you in the right area. First you need to balance/sync the carbs, then set the mixture screws, back to sync the carbs and then re-set the mixture. For this you will need at least one vacuum gauge, but it's much easier to sync the carbs with a carb sync tool. For setting the sync all carbs need to be drawing the same amount of vacuum so that will ensure that they all are carrying an equal burden of weight when it comes to torque or HP. The idle mixture screws will and can adjust the fuel mixture that goes into each cylinder at idle, and once off of idle that idle circuit in the carb has less and less effect on the whole mixture situation. Fact is that once over 1500 rpm you wouldn't notice any difference in the running of the engine if you did adjust the mixture screws at that speed. Now if the idle circuit is set too lean you might find that response time from idle to running will be slow or it may hesitate, too rich and it may cough a bit to get going, but as long as you have it in the right area mostly you'll be quite happy. When setting the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge you will be looking for the highest possible vacuum at 900 rpm, not any faster or you will be into the running circuit and not much slower either or the vacuum won't be stable. For each carb the idle must be set back to or up to 900rpm. Hope this helps

That sure would, even if we got a camper tied on the back.

He lives in Woodstock, not Kitchener!!

Before going through the CDI routine take off the air boxes and while it running spray some carb cleaner or brake clean or even WD40 into the intakes. If you notice an improvement through this process then you have a fuel issue, not an ignition issue.

Pardon me for asking, but is this a new switch or a used one?

The idle mixture screws are set at about 2 to 2.5 turns out, but that is only a starting point. These are not to be confused with the ,idle set screw, which is the one that is hard to find and there is only one. To set the idle mixture screws my process is: sync the carbs then with a vacuum gauge set the idle mixture at the highest possible vacuum, then sync the carbs again and then back to adjust the mixture screws again, and if I have more time I'll do it all again. I have a 4 port vacuum gauge that stays hooked up to do this process. If the engine isn't getting enough fuel at idle then it will be a bit sluggish getting itself up and going, but once the carbs are into the running circuit then the idle circuits have less of an impact. All this is done with the engine rpm kept at 900.

Always interesting to think about, not that I think much, I usually just do things off the top of my head, and sometimes that gets me trouble in the butt, not that I have much of a butt, but what I got is mine so it comes along. Where are we going?

Having good compression may not have anything to do with a noisy rod, but sometimes it might, in other words: inconclusive. But a compression test is always interesting enough to do.

94% maybe