RDawson

Thanks Sky, unfortunately the snoring is just a symptom. The real problem is I stop breathing and my oxygen levels drop dangerously low and periodically stay there for over 2hours at a time. On average I stop breathing almost once per minute while asleep.

The school marm has been after me for a while to go get a sleep study, she claims I snore loudly but I don't believe her. I think she even sunk low enough to get my crew at the firehouse in on it because they claim the same thing. Doc called me today to let me know I don't have "sleep apnea"- I have "severe sleep apnea" , the kind you can wake up dead from. :shock3: I haven't felt good in quite a long time, always exhausted and not sleeping well so this is probably a big part of it. The 6 months off work last year for a couple surgeries didn't help since not working my normal physical jobs caused my other issues to worsen, the furniture disease sorta kicked in. The one where your chest drops to you drawers. I don't consider myself way overweight at 6'-2" 220 but I'm definitely not in the shape I was in a few years ago which I'm sure is making the apnea worse. I'm hoping it'll help if I drop the extra 20-25 lbs I've somehow managed to add on and rearrange a few more back where they came from. I'm gonna get back in the gym a little more to work on that. In the meantime I go back in soon to get my CPAP or BIPAP machine ( not sure which) which brings me to the point of the whole post. Anyone here have experience with certain brands they recommend or ones to stay away from? Wow, I went back to proof read this before posting and realized I wrote an essay to ask one question. Now I'm worried a little of Cowpuc is rubbing off on me. :bowdown:

Well Ben and Jim how are y'all making out now, haven't seen any updates so I hope all is well.

I did my first WNY last year, if I can get the time off I may try a southern run and make this one. After I took that last promotion getting time off got a lot harder. I'm partial to hot showers and good beds so what accommodations are recommended? I'll be running solo since the marm will be back in school.

Congrats on both the beautiful bike and lady. Take care of both of em, they'll take care of you.

In my head (which is a scary place to be) if the healer was programmed to throw the speedometer off to a faster reading you might be able to get 4th gear CC back. Just another of my crazy ideas. It wouldn't be worth it to me but I'm always thinking out of the box. I bought the DRD to get the Speedo right, it always bugged me being off.

The speedometer sensor is in the pumpkin. With only neutral and 5th gear sensors my understanding is the TCI "computes" gear by matching RPMs with speed. With the lower gearing running higher revs for the speed it computes 3rd instead of 4th. That's the explanation I've found online and since it's on the internet it must be true and that's the story I'm sticking to. If that's true I wonder if you could trick it with a speedo healer or DRD. I run the DRD to fix the true speed and probably won't test the theory. If it did work it would change the 80 mph cruise limit.

According to the ole google machine propane is 177 psi at 100* to maintain its liquid form. Upwards of 200 in the heat. That must accurate since I found it on the internet.

Use the right sealer for gas, I've seen the aftermath of a few gas leaks. We've had two houses explode around here from propane leaks and one dorm have the whole end blown out of two floors from a natural gas leak in the basement. The dorm blew bricks through the walls of another dorm 100yds away and through windows a lot further. Aaaand after all that I'm still one of the idiots going up to check on buildings that may have a leak.

In the original post you said you checked the final drive and drive shaft. If you didn't re-install those then you should be able to shine a light in the tube and see the u-joint. If you did re-install the final you have to make sure the driveshaft aligned in the u-joint, that usually takes a little work.

Thanks Don. I'm still running OEM ignition so hopefully no issues there. Wiz talked to me about the swap at WNY and I've been thinking about it since.

I remember a thread about cruise not working right for some after the pumpkin swap, maybe Freebird being one of them? After 2 hours going crosseyed looking for it I give up. For those who have done it are you seeing cruise problems? I am really thinking of ordering one now that we're pulling a trailer, but I use CC most of the time I'm on the slabs or long highways and don't want to lose it. With both shoulders giving problems setting the cruise and riding one handed is a must.

Check with Mike Eykamp- Diamond Cut Guy he had some recently.

The photos work fine, the Fluke will work better if turned on.

I've only heard of Goofy Golf as a description of my playing the game.

You said not much room for long shots so I'll throw this one out there. My favorite short range woods gun is an old Marlin lever 44 magnum. It's not much good out past 100 yards but the knock down is great. I bought it used 30 some odd years ago and couldn't even guess to the number of deer it's taken. Rarely have I ever looked for a blood trail, they don't go far enough to need it. I shoot jacketed hollow points that usually don't exit the deer, I find the bullet just under the skin on the exit side. To me it means the deer absorbs 100% of the energy from the bullet instead of a shoot thru wasting that energy. The gun store owner here tried to sell me ballistic tips last year but I want meat left on the bone. On the one farm that has some 300yd areas I switch to my 30.06. I'm not going to comment on the type of oil I use on it though, that'll spark a whole new thread.

Round these parts it's a jump box.

Glad to see ya back Puc. Was starting to wonder where you was.

At first glance I thought it was an old Mosin Nagant 7.62x54 but the mag looks wrong. All the shops around here had a barrel of them in the corner for $79 back in the 80's.

I prefer to use the KISS method of troubleshooting (Keep It Simple Stupid method) before diving deep. Seeing the jug and head will reveal if there is catastrophic damage or not causing compression loss. Knowing the dependability of these V4s I wouldn't overhaul one with cylinder damage. The cost of parts and labor of overhaul vs the cost of a low mileage used isn't worth it to me. If there is internal damage I don't waste my time further checking the bad one, time is short therefore expensive to me. I hope my engine building days are behind me, I just don't enjoy it anymore. Back to the KISS method I will admit to learning that the hard way on occasion. There was a time I'd tear down a bad engine just to see why it went, I'm just not that curious anymore unless it just did something very weird.

I use a local tire shop for all my cages that doesn't sell MC tires but will mount anything I ask him to. I bought the Nexen from him mounted and out the door for $60 if I remember correctly.

Nope. I don't know the wrenching experience of the OP so start with basics to get the brain moving in the right direction for troubleshooting. 1st step is never assume anything and get the head around the problem and consider all possible causes starting with the most likely and/or easiest to test moving toward a solution. There are multiple possible explanations but seeing in the cylinder and head will give insight for base line troubleshooting.

I'm running the 777 on the front. I did the swing arm bearings the same time I did the CT. I did get some crazy stuff coming back from NY but tracked it to the steering head bearings. I had gottem them too tight and it would pick up an aero wobble. Keep in mind all these things have to work together and it doesn't take much for it to be off enough to wobble. I've read of some hating the CT but later figuring out it was the swingarm bearings loose. I recommend checking it all when installing a CT.

I've locked it a few times now. With the wide contact patch it doesn't feel as squirrelly and while I don't like it I don't feel out of control. Once at 80 on the slab trying not to get run over I could see the smoke in the mirror but it straightened up as soon as I got off the pedal.

All that usually fails is the points. $30 part and one solder joint. OEM pumps are hard to beat, none of the ebay cheap pumps are worth using.