Flyinfool

I'll have to see what happens when I get home.......

I have seen almost that in real life. :rotf: :rotf: Laughed so hard I almost wet my pants. :rotfl: :rotfl: I had to wait for the deer to move a safe distance from the sleeping hunter before a VERY loud noise woke the hunter up and put the deer to sleep. The hunters reaction was priceless. The deer was delicious.

When the starter clutch is going, it does not sound so much like grinding. It sounds more like there is someone inside the engine with a hammer trying to get out. Lots of banging noise. The options are to replace with stock parts every few years or contact Dano for his upgraded starter clutch.

All I can say is for those that like the fiber optic idea, go for it. When we have several systems in use we can easily compare. The circuit board I have will draw no power, none, zilch, nada, unless the light being monitored has burnt out, and then it will just be a 20mA draw to light an LED.

I wonder where the grease all went. That sure looks like it has been dry for a long time.

The front grommet is no longer available. I used a piece of rubber fuel line split lengthwise and put that around the inside of the sheet metal where the front grommet should go. I did have my cover come off once but I had just had it off and I am sure that it was just a case of not having the front tab in the slot. I have had the bike up to an air speed of around 120 (driving at 80 into a ~40 headwind)

I believe that SkyDoc can get you every thing you will need. One stop shopping.

It is hard to tell from the pics. Is the broken edge nice and shiny like a fresh break would be or does it have the same brownish patena that everything else in there has? If the broken edge is the same color as everything else, that may have been like that from the factory. I can not think of anything that could get to there to break that off without major other damage.

It is pretty normal for most 1st gens to always run on reserve. The valve can not be reached while moving, and most need a tool to turn. between the trip meter, the gas gauge, and the low fuel light, you have to be not paying any attention to your bike while riding to run out of gas.

A 5 pin round is not a standard trailer connector. http://www.etrailer.com/question-15255.html

A chunk broken off of what?

Nothing partial about that. It is well done.....

You could, but what fun is there in doing that. Playing with electronics is fun. Besides, I have access to electronics, I do not have any fiber optics to play with.

It all depends on what you want to light up, if you need more light straight down the road, then get the narrow beam. If you are trying to light up the side of the road to see critters coming, or see the road around the turn you are making, then get the wide beam. OR Since LED draws so much less power than halogen, get a set of both.

Here is approximately what one will look like. The 2 extra coils are in case I need it to be more sensitive. Trying the easy to make one first. Now for some testing........

Yes you can adjust your riding style to keep more distance. But that does not help when the texting cager pulls out in front of you, or a large animal darts in front of you, or any other of the myriad of things that you can not control that will require a max effort stop. There is a semi local trailer supply place (R&P Carriage) that does carry everything you need to put brakes in a 8" wheel. there is an electric 7" drum brake setup available. If I do it I will build a complete new axle with the brakes on it.

All of the single part clears that I have tried are either not chemical resistant (oil, gas, carb or brake cleaner) or they yellow quickly. There are sever companies that do make a 2 part clear in a rattle can. You press in the right spot to break an internal seal to allow the resin and hardener to mix internally. Once you mix it whatever you do not use can not be saved, it will still kick off and harden in the can. Here is one http://www.eastwood.com/ or [ame=http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY]Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317U4Ie5tYL.@@AMEPARAM@@317U4Ie5tYL[/ame]

As mentioned, the rule of thumb is no more than half the weight of the bike. My trailer is a lot less than that and I am considering adding electric trailer brakes because I do not like the longer stopping distance.

The odds are not good for me to make it but I am trying like heck to find a way to get there.

While you have the start switch apart check the wires at the switch; Check continuity from the black wire to battery Negative. Check for 12V from the Blue/White wire to Battery Negative. This will test the rest of the starter wiring and the start relay.

NOOOOOoooooo........Left?????????????

If the fork seal is leaking, new springs will not help. You have 2 options that I am aware of; 1. clean the seal, there are a couple of threads on using something similar to 35mm film to scrape out dirt. 2. replace the seals.

Also you mentioned that one plug was black, this could indicate a carb issue where one or more cylinders are running rich. What did the rest of the plugs look like? What did the plugs look like the second time you changed them? Maybe a stuck float???? But then on the other hand, since the tach is dropping to zero that indicates an electrical issue. Maybe you have more than one unrelated issue going on at the same time?

HAHAHA!! But you are not going to share your findings so that the next person to use search will find this thread about fork oil with no info???

Well Lesson 1 How to pick it back up......... Trying to drive across grass with no knowledge of the friction zone, he spun the wheel and it slid out from under him. No apparent dame to him or the bike, well maybe a hit to his pride having to stop over to ask for help getting it upright. I used it as a point that it is useful things like that that you will learn in a MSF course. I think he is beginning to see my point. I did give him my ride like a pro DVD.