Flyinfool

Oh Man....... Now I have to go out and get the 3D printer that I have wanted for a long time now.

Now you need to find another Yerf Dog so that you can chase the grandson around the yard. Comeon now, you know you wanna.......

The relay is nothing special. the standard 30 or 40 amp accessory relay at any auto parts store will be perfect.

Just as long as the aliens do not figure out that Puc can quickly be bought with just a bit of Banana Nut Ice Cream.

Yup you are all still stuck with me. My riding days are over, I may get a small convertible sports car to keep some wind in my hair. Right now between job and health issues I don't get on here as much as I would like to or used to, but still pop in unexpectedly to cause trouble.

It is getting close to that time of year when I am in my glory. @cowpuc And don't forget the.......

Before you trust your life to that, please at least put a bolt thru each corner.

OK, have to start with the easy silly questions. Is the kill switch in the run position? Is the Neutral light on? Will it crank if you pull in the clutch? The blue white wire is supposed to be always hot. It is connected direct to the battery inside of the solenoid. Grounding the wire is what tells the solenoid to close and turn over the engine. If that wire is hot then your issue is in one of the switches or wires in the starter system.

I don't know if I would trust JB Weld to hold 1000 lbs over my head. If a joint popped off it would get real ugly real fast. It is not just the weight of the bike on those joints. it is also any forces that you are applying to a wrench. Then the legs are a foot long lever to put even more stress on the joints.

Call the place with one for a 22LR and see if they can check to see if it is the same P/N as the one for your 22MAG.

Very glad that you finally got to throw a leg over her and let her rip. That 36 year old bike will still surprise a lot of modern bikes. She loves loud V twins as a snack. You will also find that she is very capable of lifting the front wheel off the ground, even with all her weight and the rider leaning forward, so be ready for that surprise. There should be 4 wires into the clutch switch, 2 of them are to disengage the cruise control and the other 2 are part of a safety circuit that will not let you crank the engine if the bike is not in neutral unless the clutch is pulled in. If you do not have cruise on your bike then you will only have the other 2 wires.

Sure you can do this. As mentioned it is very time consuming and that makes it seam hard to do. But it is a very straight forward job. It is the time consuming part that makes it expensive at a stealer, and people equate expensive with hard to do. If you contact @skydoc_17 he has a kit with assorted shims and the special tool you will need as a free loaner if you buy the gasket set from him, He also is a wealth of knowledge on these bikes and has reasonable prices.

Is the tube you need missing or just damaged / worn? If you have the tube, even a bad or ugly one, it might be repairable or might not be real hard to reverse engineer to remake a new one.

Look at your screen on the dash, if the side stand icon is lit up then you have to do something with the switch. If it is not lit then some one already bypassed it and your issue lies elsewhere. There are 3 wires that go to the side stand switch, to bypass the switch you connect all 3 wires together and it will always show as side stand up. It is NOT recommended to do this other than trouble shooting or an emergency patch to get you home.

The leak on that elbow is from the bike having been laid down on the right side. The engine guard mounting point will flex back far enough to puncture the elbow. I ground the corner off of my engine guard to give more clearance and sprayed some "Chrome" paint on the edge to prevent rust. For the elbow I scuffed it up real good and repaired the hole with JB Weld and then painted it to about the right color. IF you are lucky the ones on those parts bikes will not have the same hole in them.

It is actually pretty common for the top of the T-stat housing to warp. Some have made up a brace out of steel to help spread the load. On mine I just milled the housing flat and put it back together with a new o-ring and it never did leak again. Sounds like such a deal on the 2 parts bikes, I would beat feet over there before he changes his mind.

Oh the game warden stories.......... I have had a few real life encounters with the wardens. I have still never been written up for anything. But they keep trying. Don't take me wrong, most wardens are really great people.

Don't forget to also clean the other end of the battery wires, every wire has 2 ends. There is also a smaller ground wire connected to the battery, check that wire also. and the connector it goes thru just in front of the battery on the right side.

I would start by figuring out how to take the Hi/Lo switch apart and clean the contacts. then using the ohm meter check from the switch contact to the green wire at the bulb, should be near zero ohms. if it is infinity, the check at the blue connector. by using the ohm meter you can narrow the foult down till you find it. I have seen a bad crimp at a connector cause issues. I have had fuses that looked good but tested as bad. Don't just go by what looks to be an intact element, check it with a meter or a test light.

What bike do you have? My 88 the cruise worked fine in all gears except neutral. In town I used it in 2nd a lot.

There was a home near me that recently had a rummage sale. They put out a sign on a main road that said TOOLS RUMMAGE, they were swamped with buyers and most was gone in a weekend. They had signs out for a week before the sale to plant the seed into the minds of all the guys that drove by. No nothing got top dollar, but it all went away. lots of package deals. Like a tool chest was sold full of whatever was in it, if someone wanted to cherry pick a couple of items out of a chest it went for top dollar. It is the package deals that will get rid of the small cheap parts. I had to make several trips there with my truck ........

So lets see, bearing 149° and range 546 miles....... Sorry cowpuc, you might get some fallout from this one, you are not real far off the trajectory.

Whats a little "a" among friends? So lets see now nozzle bearing 202.53° range 439.57 miles........... @cowpuc might not even get any fallout from this one.

@cowpuc I guess you will know the answer to that in just a few short months. Yesterday was the last time this year you will see a sunset after 8:00 pm, winter is coming....... @Argo The handle spins on a pin that is pressed in and peened over into the wheel. I am not sure if I can or want to remove it. It might be easier to make a removable guard for the wheel. The impact of the handle is something that I had not really given a lot of thought to. Now that you mentioned it, I will have to give it some more thought.

We have more progress. I have the stepper motor and the belt drive all mounted up on the grinder. Plugged in the electronics I built earlier and the table even moves back and forth now. WOOOOOO HOOOOOO I still have to mount the switches for the table reversing. Right now I am just holding one switch in each hand and clicking to reverse direction. But I just had to see the table move under its own power. There are still some issue to sort out. The motor that I have, the ones I got for free, is not quite enough torque to do the table reversing. If I slow the motor speed down to a crawl then the motor can do the job. I am still playing with various setting in the electronics to see if I can up the torque enough without loosing any speed. It is real close to being enough. Remember these motors are different, the peak torque is holding at 0 RPM and the torque drops as you get faster, Opposite of "normal" motors. I did drill and tap the mounting plate, while it was all set up in the milling machine, to be able to mount the next bigger size of motor if needed, so there is also that option still easily available. But that bigger motor option cost more money. But at least we have table movement. That is a big step in the right direction.