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tiny84

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Everything posted by tiny84

  1. Ok sorry wasn't clear on that screws i'm refering to are sync screws. haven't messed with the fuel enrichment screws. should i screwing with those screws?
  2. Ok so synced the carbs again adjusting the pull cable so as not to hold the throttle open. adjusted idle speed acordingly took it for a spin. shut it down started it up took a ride. got home parked it ran inside to change for work. went back out bike had COOLED by now jumped on... wont start cranks over but no combustion. what should i be looking at? It runs when the bike is hot but if its cold I cant get her going again when the carbs are synced... if i turn all the screws CC then it will fire up but then are out of sync from the #2 carb.
  3. Well odds are last year in trying to get the bike running we screwed with the mixture screws so i'll turn them all the way in then back them out 2.25 back out and see if that doesn't net me some reasonable MPG. I'll be all over that like a fat kid on a cupcake after work tomorrow.
  4. lol yeah it was my own way of finding a common ground where the bike would actualy start. I think it means the #2 valve is staying open slightly and when I sync the carbs to it they all stay slightly open this means the bike wont start. but once i set all the other screws closed then the bike can start with just the #2 carb slightly open. this is my thoughts on what must be happening. when i first was looking into doing the sync I did have the bike running with the air box off and noticed the plunger on carb #2 moved more just ideling than any of the others. this also leads me to think it stays slightly open. and you didn't confuse things all aspects probly need to be coverd on this problem... i'm paying more in gas now then I do for rent...
  5. So for my running rich issue should I be screwing with the mixture screws?
  6. True if nothing was wrong I wouldn't be doing anything to it. but the bike smells like its running very rich and gets terrible MPG. One post I saw somewhere was someone complaining about backfireing and poor mileage "mobile home mileage" and doing a proper carb sync cleared it up... my bike would backfire occasionaly and gets bad mileage... I'm a religeous member of the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" Congregation so if it wasn't broke trust me I wouldn't be trying to fix it.
  7. It is indeed very possible that I am incorrect but I think I have the right screws. only 3 screws all attached to the throttle pull linkage. If anyone has a pic of the correct screws I'd love to be able to confirm or disprove what i've been looking at. The sync screws are the one located between carb 3 and 4 and one between 1 and 2. I thought fuel enrichment screws were actualy on the carbs.
  8. Ok bike fired up today. GeorgeS gave me some pointers on the pull cable settings... Still didn't fire up. Then I backed out each of the sync screws all the way then tightend them in 3.5 turns. by this time the battery was very low so I stuck it on the charger over night. Bike fired right up today. but unfortunatly this means the bike is way out of sync again. Anyone looking for another first gen with Upgraded speakers and highend CD/DVD player indash?
  9. I can say that the bike ran well and pulled ok before the sync. the plugs i pulled out still looked new but replaced all the same. i'm thinking about just dropping in the backup set of carbs I picked up that were said to be 100% working and then sync those and see if maybe there is somthing screwy with the carbs that are on the bike now. I cleaned them last season but didn't seem to make any change.
  10. ok now most of that was information I didn't know. I did know about the idle speed set at 800-900 rpms. I was at around 1100-1200 when i finished the sync. how should I go about getting back to a base line where the bike actualy runs so I can redo the sync correctly?
  11. Yup recapped all the ports... Sorry neglected to mention I replaced the air filter with a new K&N filter 2 weeks ago. Good question though.... I'm just realy pulling my hair out on this one... this bike has never produced good mileage. if I can't get this running right i'm gonna have to look into tradeing it in.
  12. Title Says it all Yesterday I got home and replaced the plugs on the bike then synced the carbs. Vacume on each carb is just about the same. the problem came in after i shut the bike down... about 20 min later it was hard to start and this morning it wouldn't stay running. any ideas on what I should be looking at next? it was running realy rich before I did the sync so not sure what I should be doing.
  13. Update: The reason the gaskets wouldn't fit with the clamps is I was given the wrong gaskets. i'm gonna have to swing by the dealer and pick up a set of the correct gaskets tomorrow.
  14. ok so I got a pair of them from my local dealer. only charged me $11 for the pair. well I got to installing them but once i got the new gaskets on I couldn't get the clamp to go back on. the gasket just makes the gap too wide for the clamps to fit... I have one of my mechanicaly inclined friends coming over this evening to see what we can figure out.
  15. ok glad to hear that. I had priced them out at bikebandit.com but they always seem to rape me on shipping. glad the price is about the same at the dealer I guess i'll have to hit up my dealer tomorrow and see if i cant get some good results out of this bike soon.
  16. ok so as many of you know i've had terrible MPG and power issues with my 84 venture royale. originaly thought it was my carb being gummed up or needing a good sync. well the otherday I was just about pulling my hair out trying to get the carbs synced. No matter how much I turned the screws the back 2 carbs always had may more suction then the front two carbs. I found the back 2 exhaust pipes could move freely just by my hand this leads me to believe my exhaust gaskets are none existant at this point. my question is i've heard that the gaskets are very expensive if you buy from the dealer, is there a good source to purchase these or anyone know of what material they are made from and if it would be cheaper to make my own? I'd love to get this bike running right i can't afford the MPG i'm getting with it right now. any help is greatly appreciated and desperatly needed.
  17. I was under the impression I could just sync carbs 2, 3, and 4 to the 1st carb. Hook up one line to the first carb then the the #2 carb sync then hook to carbs 1 and 3 sync and finnaly hook to carbs 1 and 4. if all carbs are matched to #1 then they should all be at the same setting thus being synced... if i'm wrong someone please let me know so I dont waste my day off doing this. you could i guess addapt this to fit a V4 by adding 2 more bottles and lines run to each vacume port then a set of tubes run between each bottle to the others which ever carb had more suction would collect the water in that bottle. and no extra fluids end up going into your motor.
  18. ok i'm looking to do a carb sync on my scoot and just cant afford the tool or having the dealership do the work. (Have you seen the price of gas I comute 2 hours everyday for work) so anyway I found this great DIY carb sync tool seems more accurate then the the tube and oil method. great walkthrough on how to make your own. http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php/Is_there_a_carb_sync_tool%3F
  19. I did the speaker upgrade last season went to a pair of Rockford Fosgate 4" after that I found that the stock Headunit just wouldn't give me the sound quality I demand from my stereo systems. Dropped in a Power Acoustik in dash DVD player. planning on doing a backrest with a flush mount LCD screen for the passenger to enjoy. I do have to say that with the virtical mounting position of the headunit a Cheap DVD headunit will out preform the high end CD players just becuase the DVD players have a bit of buffering to them as well as more controle of the disk while its in the Headunit.
  20. I'm dusting off the venture and bringing it out of mothballs. Bike was stored at my folks house this winter so I didn't get a chance to charge the battery every so offten this season so the battery is pooched. I bought a new battery from VIP yesterday and filled it with the acid. My question is how long should it take for the first charge i'm slow charging it at 2amps but i think it read charged alot sooner then I expected. Only took maybe 5 hours I thought for our bikes it would take over night atleast.
  21. Ok not sure if this is related to my running rich issue but yesterday I went to leave work but when I hopped on my scoot it wouldn't kick on kept turning over and it backfired a few times mostly through the carbs but acouple times out the exhaust nearly caused the old lady behind me getting out of her car to have a heart attack. ended up running the battery down too much and had to get one of the security guys to jump the bike with a jumper pack. stopped for gas on the way home ended up haveing to push start the bike. yesterday was realy rainy and wet and a lil cold. left it on the trickle charger all night. this morning the trickle charger still said charging not sure whats up with that (may have toasted my bat from running it dead.) hopped on it this morning and it kicked right on. even stopped one place and it started back up after with out too much coaxing. (starter did sound like it wasn't getting all the power it wants)
  22. Do you need to utilize Choke for starting the cold Motor ? yes still use choke to start the cold motor At what RpM is the Idle now ? I had to turn down the idle when i first started the bike up after the cleaning it was idleing up just above 2krpms now its down a lil over 1000 but some times at stop lights it will start to "creep" up in rpms or when i squeeze the clutch in the rpms might hang for a bit (stays at the higher rpm even though i let of the throttle and the clutch is engaged. Does the Motor holding the Idle you setted, or is it going up and down ? i guess i kinda already answered this one but its not like randomly bouncing around in the rpm if thats what your asking. As long as the Clips on the Jet Needles aren't set to the very bottom Notch, they should not affect the Consuption that far. Now, if you smell unburned Gas, this can be either a overflowing Carb or no/weak/bad Spark. would the overflow carb be just releasing alof of vapor or would it actualy be fluid? if its actual fluid its not the over flow, if its fumes how would i tell? I think, i'd go for checking the Plugs as the next Step. Next Step would be checking and, i'm afraid to say, and possibly adjusting Float Levels. If the Level is too high, the Carbs need to be dismounted and splitted again. Also, of Course, the Floater Valves should be checked again. I read a Posting here, somebody did Place one Carb at a Time in a Glas, without the Bowl on it and filled the Glas with Fuel, this Way you can see the Floater moving and can adjust the Fuel Level against the Mark on the opposite Side of the Carb. That's by far the the easiest Way to do that, what i know so far. If you put a Hose on the Fuel intake of the Carb, you can actually blow some Air with your Mouth in it and determine if the Valves securely closes. If you're were able to access a Thermometer, as i mentioned before, it could be very helpful in resolving this Issue. no thermometer yet but i'll see what we have kicking around the shop after i get free from work. my old ninja we just sprayed the "hot" exhaust headers with a lil carb cleaner and if one didn't smoke or didn't smoke as much we started looking at the cylendar. Thanx for all the help.
  23. What exactly do you mean when you say you cleaned the Carbs ? Took the carbs out of the bike and took each one apart "carefully" cleaned everypart i came in contact with Did you check only the Main Jet or also the Jets behind the rubber Plugs ? cleaned all jets. Did you measure the Float Hight ? I didn't check the float hight Where are the Clips on the Jet Needle setted, seen from the Top, there should be 5 or 6 Notches ? All the jet needles were in the same position I dont recall now what position they were in off the top of my head now though Did you check the Floater Valves ? spritzed some carb cleaner on em but they looked ok. In what Conditions are the Idle Mixture Screws, is everything on Board, there should be a O-Ring, a Washer and Spring on every Screw, seen from inside to outside. Check check and check How did you synch the Carbs after Mounting ? I didn't resynch the carbs again I was going to take it in to the dealer to synch so it would be done right but as it is now i dont know if its worth it if i'm gonna be messing with stuff again. and have to synch again. Just give us some Answers and we will try to Help. Also before i even took the carbs apart i filled each on with carb cleaner and let it sit for about 30 min then flushed them out till the carb cleaner came out clear... at first it was comeing out an orangish color. Honestly the bike does seem to be running smoother now and seems to start a lil easier.
  24. ok So from the ride into work yesterday and the ride into work today i'm just about sure the MPG has gotten worse since i cleaned the carbs. what could I have done wrong? or does this mean it is something ellse wrong with the bike? it actualy smells like the bike is running richer then it was before. This evening when I get home i'm gonna pull the plugs and see if they are fouled again (from running with the carbs in such poor condition) also going to stop by the hardware shop and pick up a new bolt for my exhaust clamp see if getting a seal on the exhaust leak helps. Low end seems a lil peppier but top end is still right at 75-80. I just want to be sure I didn't screw somthing up. i know i need to replace the #4 diagphram and that the exhaust needs to get a good seal but i just didn't expect my MPG to go down after cleaning the carbs, i'm down to right around 20MPG
  25. pulled the carbs apart today and cleaned them out used 4 cans of carb cleaner on em. will know how much better my MPG is tomorrow after my ride to work. crossing my fingers that this did it.
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