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tiny84

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Everything posted by tiny84

  1. Well one thing is for sure i did mess up a lil when I put the clutch back together the last time. I put the bolts back on like a car directly across from eachother and tighten them down not in a triangular patern. one question about the hit it and pray option... what are possible ramifications of this option? can I do more damage than is already done?
  2. Can I remove the slave without takeing the trans cover off? or do i take that off to start then remove the slave? just looking for a few tips before i start messing with that side. could it simply be an easy fix such as cleaning it all out and putting it back together? or am I more likely going to be rebuilding the slave?
  3. I've not removed the "rods". so is the slave the portion that the bleeder valve is hooked onto? and would i need to replace it or could i simply clean it out? on the schematic the slave is the parts labled "27" right?
  4. ok pinion is not working correctly. no plates on the bike right now and the pinion will bairly "wiggle" when i press on the lever as hard as i can i might add. how do i free up the pinion to move
  5. sorry no its not hard to pull the lever in if the bleeder valve is open, and yes the system did have fluid in it when i got it all be it merky but it did have fluid
  6. ok so i took the clutch plates off again and the clutch lever is still very hard and the push rod bairly moves so it seems to me that the line has plenty of pressure in the line in fact it seems now that the clutch is stuck out so that it wont spin the rear wheel. i'm thinking i'm going to have to tear down the hydralic side of the clutch and clean it out completly and bleed the lines again. should be loads of fun. well it will give me something to do tomorrow after work.
  7. i guess i'll be waiting with baited breath as well:cool10:
  8. Yeah i was very carefull to make note of notches and where they lined up. it did seem to hel with the rear wheel spinning issue but now the clutch lever just wont budge so i'm thinking randya is correct that i have crud in the hydralic lines somewhere but all the fluid seems clean now
  9. ok my estimation is that i'm in the range of maybe 500 rpms right now. my guages don't read the rpms all that acurately. i had to jump the bike to get it to run. still has a hard time starting so it takes a few tries to get it going, so i jumped it to get it going instead of killing the brand new battery i put in.
  10. it gets alot softer but yes it does still have some resistance. how do i go about cleaning that portion out? i'm guessing i need to take the plate out of the left hand side of the engine. wich will mean fresh oil again i'm guessing
  11. Ok so here is an interesting question, I have an 84 venture royale I had it sitting idling and the voltage guage kept going a lil lower then the engine stalled out. the bike was running for a bit I was trying to work the cob webs out from not running for so long. my question is does the stator on the venture not put out alot of power at a low idle? I think it does idle a lil low so I was thinking it might not be putting out enough power unless I raise the idle. when I rolled on the throttle the power came up so it was produceing enough power if i was riding it. is this common for the venture or is my idle just set too low?
  12. Ok I think I scewed something up! I took the clutch plates out today seperated all the plates and passed each one through some fresh oil but now that I have reassembled the clutch... in exactly the same order and position I might add, but now the clutch lever takes everything I can to squeez the clutch lever in. Any ideas on what I did wrong? do I need to bleed the clutch again?
  13. Ok I'm not sure how to go about "reverse bleeding" could you be a lil more discriptive as to what I would need to do? as far as the clutch lever it does have a bit more pressure at 1/4 way in. but it doesn't feel as stiff as my 86 kawasaki ninja. i'm off tomorrow So i'll be pulling apart that clutch. is there anything i'm gonna need to know about taking the clutch apart before I end up with a bunch of clutch plates with out being sure how they go back in there? lol Honestly I'm getting pretty antsy to get some rideing in.
  14. Ok so here is my issue (the only thing keeping my venture royale from going down the road) My bike runs mint now bled all the hydralic systems fresh oil change and rearend oil but the clutch wont letgo. I start the bike on the center stand to test everything out, press on the front brake and clutch and kick it into gear, bike starts clunking around a bit and spinning the rear wheel even with the clutch all the way in. if i press on the rear brake it will stall out the engine. any ideas of what needs to be done? I've orderd new clutch springs as I dont realy want to mess with replaceing the whole clutch right now. I'm still new at working on bikes. I do know if I replace one spring at a time I wont end up dissassembling the clutch and it should be a realativly easy job. and just see if that does the trick. Could it be from not enough oil? I put 3 quarts in but not 100% that was enough. I'm working blind as I dont have a manual. bike did sit for 6 years could it fix itself if I just kept running it (clutch sticking from nonuse for so long?)
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