BlueSky

It's on the side and easily accessible to adjust with the engine running. Part 19 in the diagram https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1989/venture-royale-xvz13dw/carburetor-non-california-model

I think the market is that bad. I saw recently that bike registrations are half what they were at their peak in 2006. With the economy picking up, it might change. It's hard to believe your bike hasn't sold though. The last motorcycle I sold was the 2004 Kawasaki Concours and it took 2 years to sell it.

I was having visions of that twin turning 14k rpms developing 150 hp! Yeah, elevation knocks the heck out of hp if you don't have a turbo. Copied from the web. Higher Altitude Means Less Power Reduced oxygen in high altitudes can lead to inefficient, sluggish engine performance because there is less air to feed the internal combustion engine. Generally speaking, an engine loses three percent of its rated power for every 1,000 feet of altitude gained. This means you could lose as much as 20% of your vehicle’s horsepower if you drive it from sea level to Big Bear Lake (with its 6,750 elevation).

Goldwings don't have a lot of leg room either. But, a RSV does. I suspect you would be comfortable on a 99-13 RSV.

What rpm did that Triumph have to turn to put out that much hp?

from Yamaha they are over a hundred each. the carb boots, carb holders, or as Yamaha calls them, (Joint, carburetor) are not available new. ebay is your friend. part number 26H-13586-00-00 I think

I googled and found these but there are other vendors tha supply the diaphrams. https://www.carburetordiaphragms.com/shop/motorcycles/yamaha/set-of-four-brand-new-aftermarket-carburetor-diaphragms-yamaha-xvz13-xvz1300-venture-royal-1986-1993/ https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=yamaha+venture+royale+carb+diaphragms&_sacat=6000

A compression test will tell you if the rod is bent for sure. That is what I would do next. I used to have a 2004 Concours and hydrolock was a popular subject on their forums at that time. And it had a fuel valve that was supposed to shut off the fuel when the engine wasn't running. The carbs didn't have an overflow so it overflowed into the engine.

You won't know exactly what you are dealing with until you pull it apart. The rod is bent evidently and it could be hitting the block or something else. You will need new rings I think. Used rings don't reseat well.

A washer or spacer in the transmission is too soft and when it wears a bit, it won't stay in second gear. Cowpuc rode several of these bikes 200k miles without second gear, so it doesn't have to be repaired if you just skip second. The biggest cost in repairing it is labor since the engine has to be removed. Sometime in 85 the issue was corrected. If you search the forum you can find the start of the serial numbers denoting the ones that don't have the problem. Some members like yamagrl repaired her own bike.

Partzilla lists the same part # basket from 99 to 13. 26H-16150-10-00 They told me that if I ordered one it would come from Japan. They also told me that part #4XY-16150-09-00 did not supersede the 26H part#. When the Vmax was redesigned in 2009, it had an entirely different engine, 65 degrees V, slipper clutch. I doubt if any of the parts interchange. If you google the part # that Freebird posted, 4XY-16150-09-00, Bike Bandit will pop up. I called them and they said the 4XY # superseded the 26H part #. I suspect those are the only two available baskets, but who knows for sure? Perhaps the 4XY part is the only one available?

Yeah, I am missing him too!

In hot weather maybe try 20w50 and in a dino oil. Dino oil will stick to engine parts without adding something to it to make it tacky from what I have read. My 07 owner's manual recommends 10w30 from 10 degrees up to over 90 and 20w40 for 40 degrees up to about 120 degrees.

I knew you had it under control! That is a beautiful bike and I was looking at one before I bought the 89 Venture.

You probably know this but the 2005 model has the servo assisted brakes that have been a failure point that is very expensive to repair. Although, I have read that some bright person is now rebuilding the parts and it isn't as expensive to repair. I read that to prevent the failure, the brakes should be bled annually. There are videos on line showing how to remove and rewire the system to get rid of the servo assisted brakes but it also removes ABS.

Looked at the old short block a little trying to determine what was knocking and it isn't obvious. The counter weights appear to be tight. I'm thinking it must indeed be a rod knock. These don't use rod bearing inserts, so I assume the rod comes machined to the correct dimensions to fit the crank. A new rod is $80. I'm also assuming it isn't either of the two main bearings. I may get around to disassembling the short block and figuring it out just out of curiosity. Way back when in the late 40's or early 50's, my Dad worked at the small town of Windsor's power generating plant which consisted of several diesel engines turning generators. I remember him saying when a rod bearing started knocking in those diesels they had to manually hone the rod and rod cap to refit the rod to the crankshaft. They used a lot of bluing to refit it. And as I remember the old chevy sixes had babbitt rod bearings, early 50's or so.

If I understand correctly, that rod splashes oil on the stator to cool it. Without the oil the stator will fail prematurely.

Those are beautiful motorcycles!

One thing that you could check that is a little trouble is the oil level in the fork legs. If it isn't the same it might cause some steering issues.

To do it right, the carbs need to be stripped and then soaked in carb cleaner. There are lots of passages in these carbs. I have the CD mentioned. The name in the return address on the CDs is: Dean Dietrick from DEPERE WI His email is in this thread https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119186-Bought-Carb-Rebuild-Video-by-Damon-Ferraiuolo

Checking the compression with the engine cold makes a difference. Checking it without the throttle wide open makes a difference.

Contact Cowpuc and see if he can tell you how to get rid of the gear whine. He said he got rid of it on a couple of Voyagers.

190 psig is great compression. Thinking there is a problem with 190 psig is wrong in my opinion.

What a Stache!

Well, the new Kohler Courage short block is installed and running. It was a lot more work than I thought. I ended up watching a lot of videos on lawn mower repair during the job. They were interesting for the most part. One guy who calls himself Tyral Dactal makes some good videos. The governor shaft fell inside the engine so I had to open up the new block and fish it out. All of the bolt holes in the block were not tapped and the screws are self tapping which I found to be a pita. I took the cover off my old block to see what the governor shaft looked like and it isn't obvious why it was knocking. the top balancer is tight and the rod appears to be tight. Perhaps it's the lower balancer. I haven't read anything positive on line about the Courage engines. My knocking engine has a total of 64.5 hours on it.